Critique my chain too

[schmauster]

I am kind of self learned and inexperienced but still hacking away at ~5 cords a year. Its hard to say 'if it cuts well' because I havent run other peoples saws. Worked for a tree service for a few years and tried to learn as much as i could.

I use pur*le power degreaser (use it on everything) every few weeks on the saws so some surface rust is expected. I lube the clutch bearing every so often. (is this bad?)

These are sharpened on my living room floor and ran for a day or two (3 or 4 hrs a day)

I play with raker height depending on if its pine or oak around here. I have started to shape them and it really helps.

After looking at the pics close up i appear to have some consistency / proper angle issues (embarrassing)

440 = green link





025 Too much whiskey?




The pine burl slab I store the saws and an oak burl 'drying' in northern cali. Also my clear firewood drying tent/corner/hammock drying/cotton seed fork and other junk

 

[buzz sawyer]

The cutters in the pictures are not sharp on the top plate and it looks like a little too much hook - like you're holding the file too low. The top angle seems a little too much as well. They will cut fast at first but probably not last long unless you are in very clean, soft wood.

As for the clutch bearing, I lube mine if I take the clutch off, otherwise, not. It only turns when the saw is at idle and gets some lube from the bar oil.

Don't be embarrassed - we can always learn.

 

[schmauster]

Just taking the pics and looking at them was an eye opener for me. Youre right, the chain would last all day in soft wood but when it came to oak i had to sharpen it every day (no smoke but cut like crap) In the last few months ive started getting some hang of sharpening. Still have a ways to go

 

[Leeroy]

Are you using new files?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Are you using new files?

Good point. And what brand? I like SaveEdge, but PFerd and Stihl are also very good.

 

[schmauster]

Stihl files, lately ive been wiping them with a paper towel backwards to clean the file so metal doesnt build up. I know when to change a file when it doesnt feel like it bites consistently. I buy the plastic sleeve of 3 files at a time since it stores well in the toolbox without them getting banged up.

I was cutting up a large pile of pine from someones front yard, kind of a burn pile that never happened, so there were a few pieces of metal and mayyybe i hit the dirt.

Should all my cutters look flawless after sharpening? Likely im not taking off enough metal and exposing a completely clean cutting edge every sharpening. Saving money in the wrong place? My chains seem to last forever.

I follow 'Philbert's chain salvage challenge' as its an excellent thread with lots of pics. Plus restoring old junk interests me for some reason.. im not alone on here.

'Philbert's chain salvage challenge'
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

 

[happysaws]

...Should all my cutters look flawless after sharpening?...

Yes, if you want to use the chain's full potential.

 

[schmauster]

Absolutely, i just dont know what I should be doing.

A sharp chain is akin to good tires on a car.



After a few drinks and a tiny bit of thought..


I should probably get one of these guides and start simple.. or at least before i destroy my chain? Any better guides?

 

[buzz sawyer]

First photo is not sharp on the top plate. They should look like the second photo.

 

[schmauster]

Could I be pushing too hard on the file as well?

 

[Little Al]

Can I suggest you buy a new file of the correct size for your chain & also one of the "Husky roller guide sharpening jig of the correct size this will keep your file at the correct height & leaves you to choose the cutter top plate angle. If you have someone /dealer sharpen you pictured chain it will give you an idea of the required angles/heights etc. Practice makes perfect as the saying goes I find Vallorbe or Sandvik files the best bang for my buck

 

[paco_06]

Use the correct sized file and I'll sharpen every tank or two of gas. Regular sharpening is two passes with round file. If you hit something, find the worst tooth and count the passes it takes to clean it up and do the same to every tooth regardless. It's all about keeping the teeth the same size. You have too much angle in the first pic. I'd really suggest taking them to someone with a grinder to straighten them all up for you to get back to square one.

The next part are the cleaners/rakers in front of each tooth. The more you file the tooth, the shorter it is. Use a flat bastard file to shorten the cleaners so the tooth can cut. One pass with a flat file every two to three sharpenings is what I've found works best for me. Just be careful not to take too much, if you do you'll know it, your saw will be very jerky and not cut smooth.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

 

[happysaws]

Absolutely, i just dont know what I should be doing.

A sharp chain is akin to good tires on a car.



After a few drinks and a tiny bit of thought..


I should probably get one of these guides and start simple.. or at least before i destroy my chain? Any better guides?

View attachment 616909

Although that file guide you pictured will work, it allows for the possibility of unprecise top-plate angles.
I would recommend a "File-n-Joint" file guide. They take a little practice to set up correctly, but they work very well in my opinion.