MS440 rebuild now low compression

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Meteor pistons are ok, the rings were good quality but some now are too hardened, the wrist pin too heavy and the circlips too soft. Better to use an OEM wrist pin and circlips in the Meteor piston.

which would mean waiting about an hour for the local Stihl guy to figure out how to order what I need and then paying 3 prices. OEM is now last choice for me for that reason.
 
Ok guys I checked the squish. It wouldn’t even smash the solder. Took the gasket off and rechecked. I don’t have a digital caliper but it looks like around .040-.050 range. That is with zero gasket. Compression is now 118.
That is horrendous, way out of tolerance. You should be under .030" WITH a gasket.
 
Not that I can tell.
which would mean waiting about an hour for the local Stihl guy to figure out how to order what I need and then paying 3 prices. OEM is now last choice for me for that reason.

Feel sorry for you guys that have bad service with Stihl dealers, the one I frequently stop in at is top notch all the way, I know of others however that suck lemons. I am just wondering why the saw has an airleak at the crankcase to cylinder mount even with a gasket in between. I have mounted untold numbers of them with just a few thous smear of sealant and never had an airleak there.
 
I am just wondering why the saw has an airleak at the crankcase to cylinder mount even with a gasket in between. I have mounted untold numbers of them with just a few thous smear of sealant and never had an airleak there.

I'm wondering the same thing. Is it possible that I torqued the bolts down to tight and warped the cylinder base slightly? Seeing as how the squish clearance was so far from anything resembling normal, perhaps this cylinder was just messed up all the way around from the get-go including the base. Or it could be that I somehow tweaked the mounting service on the powerhead when I ran over it with Bobcat.
 
UPDATE!! I re-examined the original cylinder. Turns out that just one of the cooling fins was broken and the muffler was smashed so bad that I had to cut it off. Other than that it looked ok. I installed and checked squish. Looks like about .5mm. I am getting a digital caliper tomorrow and will measure again. Compression was 150 and the best of all...no leaks at the base. I could only find one of the original rings so I will have to wait until my Caber rings come in before I fire her up. If they refund my money on the AF cylinder kit then all of this headache will actually end up saving me money as I will be using all original parts except for rings.
 
UPDATE!! I re-examined the original cylinder. Turns out that just one of the cooling fins was broken and the muffler was smashed so bad that I had to cut it off. Other than that it looked ok. I installed and checked squish. Looks like about .5mm. I am getting a digital caliper tomorrow and will measure again. Compression was 150 and the best of all...no leaks at the base. I could only find one of the original rings so I will have to wait until my Caber rings come in before I fire her up. If they refund my money on the AF cylinder kit then all of this headache will actually end up saving me money as I will be using all original parts except for rings.
5mm is about .020in. Wouldn't want less than that. But great news
 
UPDATE!! I re-examined the original cylinder. Turns out that just one of the cooling fins was broken and the muffler was smashed so bad that I had to cut it off. Other than that it looked ok. I installed and checked squish. Looks like about .5mm. I am getting a digital caliper tomorrow and will measure again. Compression was 150 and the best of all...no leaks at the base. I could only find one of the original rings so I will have to wait until my Caber rings come in before I fire her up. If they refund my money on the AF cylinder kit then all of this headache will actually end up saving me money as I will be using all original parts except for rings.

Well that answers the question I had concerning the leak at the base to crankcase junction. Great news about the OEM cylinder, it will perform much better than those AM sets.
 
Great news. Throw that thing together. I only install one ring anyway.

Really? I was wondering about that since it had 150 psi of compression with just the one ring. Do you put the one ring in the top slot or bottom, or does it matter?
 
Really? I was wondering about that since it had 150 psi of compression with just the one ring. Do you put the one ring in the top slot or bottom, or does it matter?
I've tested with both one and two rings. There is almost no affect on compression and it frees up several hundred RPMs due to less friction. It's for the same reason that I don't care for Caber F-Cast rings. They're MUCH stiffer.
 
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