Bar dressing

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Then I tried using one of these, and hate to admit how much I like it.

The things we talk ourselves into . . .I noticed that the Pferd model has a slightly different design, which looks interesting
. . . Which led me to an Oregon clone on eBay (under $5 shipped. . . ) . . .

Got this off eBay, about 5$,

IMG_1517.jpg
Oregon, clone, and Pferd file holders / bar dressers, top to bottom.

The clone looks identical to the Oregon model (I drilled the hole for the cord to hang it at a workbench), except for a washer on the screw. Both screws thread directly into plastic; no metal insert. The parts are interchangeable. The plastic on the Oregon feels 'harder', and I have not tried them side-by-side to compare the quality of the files. My Oregon was cracked when I got it out of a 'bargain bin', so even if I place the Oregon file in the clone holder, it still was 'a deal' for $5 if it holds up.
IMG_1514.jpg

The Pferd file and holder are noticeably larger when placed side-by-side, and the file is noticeably coarser. Again, I will have to compare them in use. The file on the Pferd is held in place by a wedge action, and comes loose very easily, so a rubber band might be advised to hold it together in your tool box.

Again, with a couple of small blocks of hardwood, a couple of bolts and wing nuts, I think that it would be possible to make one of these yourself, if so inclined. The replacement files could be purchased, or a hardware store file could be sectioned with a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel.

As noted, there are other ways to dress a guide bar, but these are really convenient, especially in the field.

Philbert
 
No, not some kind of salad dressing. How do you dress your bars? Freehand or something along the Oregon jig style?
Usually they need the burrs filed off the heal & tip. Only cleaned the groove when I had oiling problems. I found that Oregon bars seemed to start spreading rails quicker than they did a few years earlier. In that case I’d bang a chained bar with some wedges on a stump until the wiggle was gone.
 
Glad this thread concentrated on techniques. I need to try a few new ideas besides my ancient mill bastard file, sand paper, etc. You would not believe how many bars have been handed to me that the owners said were shot. In fact, most of them only needed to be redressed. A few needed new sprocket tips but little else.

What irks me more is that I offered to redress or retip four of them for $20 apiece and got turned down several times when the owner said he wanted to spend $80 each for new ones. Money seems to mean nothing to generation X. :confused:
 
Usually they need the burrs filed off the heal & tip. Only cleaned the groove when I had oiling problems. I found that Oregon bars seemed to start spreading rails quicker than they did a few years earlier. In that case I’d bang a chained bar with some wedges on a stump until the wiggle was gone.
Just run a putty knife down the grove when you clean your saw and blow it out. Stops those oil problems before they occur.
 
If I had only one saw and it had to work, I would be more inclined to buy a new bar than have someone make a repair that I was unsure of.

I have more than one saw and can always find one that will work and I know a little about bar repair/recondition procedures so I agree that most of the time it is a cost effective way to keep a bar/saw in operation. Fact is I replaced the shot nose sprocket on an old bar last week and didn't even have to grind the rails in the nose to have them match the bar as it had very little wear. Surprising since the nose sprocket was totally worn out...makes me wonder if someone had run .354 pitch chain on a 3/8 pitch sprocket nose.

Mark
 
If I had only one saw and it had to work, I would be more inclined to buy a new bar than have someone make a repair that I was unsure of.

I have more than one saw and can always find one that will work and I know a little about bar repair/recondition procedures so I agree that most of the time it is a cost effective way to keep a bar/saw in operation. Fact is I replaced the shot nose sprocket on an old bar last week and didn't even have to grind the rails in the nose to have them match the bar as it had very little wear. Surprising since the nose sprocket was totally worn out...makes me wonder if someone had run .354 pitch chain on a 3/8 pitch sprocket nose.

Mark
You use .354 pitch?
 
Just run a putty knife down the grove when you clean your saw and blow it out.
. . . my smallest putty knife is 1” wide and is too wide.

I have posted this a few times. Old Sawzall (reciprocating saw) blades, wrapped in duct tape, colored electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, etc. The nose plows the chips from the groove, and the tail cleans the mounting holes. Worn, metal cutting blades fit most bar grooves. Cheap. Effective. No big deal if you lose one.

Sawzall Bar Goove Cleaner.png

I make a 'kit' of old toothbrush, Sawzall blade, and cut down paint brush to keep with each saw for field cleaning. Cost is essentially zero. Maybe a couple of bucks if you splurge and buy new stuff.

Cleaning Kit 2.jpg

Philbert
 
Broken off hacksaw blades with most of the teeth ground off were my bar groove cleaning tools for years, still have one or two in my traveling saw tool box.

McCulloch sold a lot of saws with .354 pitch chain and it is not at all uncommon to find someone trying to run 3/8 chain on the .354 sprocket. I accidentally sent one out that way trying to help a fellow by upgrading his bar, I replaced the hard tip bar and put on a better chain without noticing it didn't turn over properly.

He brought it back the next time he tried to use it and I swapped out the drum for one with a 3/8 pitch spur and life was good again.

Eventually when he moved off his place in the country he dropped off the 10-10, a Poulan Micro, and an electric saw he wasn't going to need anymore.

Mark
 
Got this off eBay, about 5$, with spare files just under 10$.
Tried it on my Dolmar branded Oregon bar off my PS-6400 and was surprised that the quite coarse looking file actually took a bite at the bar rails.
It may not be perfect but it works good enough to beat freehand dressing.
I have only tried it on one bar so far so I don't know how it will hold up long term.
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A small update on the cheap eBay bar dresser.

I tried dressing a 18" Oregon D005 bar that I got with my PS-7300, the supplied file is just slipping over the rails and will not bite.

The dressers plastic is already showing wear from being pushed along the bars side.
The plastic used seems too soft, further usage will show longevity.
 
This works very good for me:
s-l500.jpg

or similar to this
10 inch disk
 
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