had some boner tell me that a small saw with a short bar cuts faster then a big saw with a long bar... so
Long bar vs short bar... and FIGHT
- Thread starter northmanlogging
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I like your pry bar at 3:40...
Meanwhile I'm waiting for some one to call me out for chucking the poor ole 360...
Think thats bad you should see what the ole 461 has been through.... There is a reason I don't run Husqvarna...
Think thats bad you should see what the ole 461 has been through.... There is a reason I don't run Husqvarna...
So I'm better off using my 261 with a 16" bar to cut through a 30" log than I am using my 661 with a 28" bar?
Its a youtube quote on a video I made, guy insists that a ms170 with a 16" bar will put more wood on the ground in a day then my oversize over compensating saws will... needless to say I disagree.
That is a bit of a stretch but it seems it is the same bore cutting vs. cutting from the back debate. Depends on a few things like what kind of face you like to use, what kind/size wood are you cutting, what kind of terrain and so on. A bigger setup for production here in sweden would be a 70cc with an 18-20 inch bar. Although not much of anything is cut by hand anymore....
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does that "Richard Cranium" have the small scar on the back of his neck to prove conclusively the grey matter has in fact been removed ?
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
With that size of stuff and tethering technology there's no need for a faller anymore.That is a bit of a stretch but it seems it is the same bore cutting vs. cutting from the back debate. Depends on a few things like what kind of face you like to use, what kind/size wood are you cutting, what kind of terrain and so on. A bigger setup for production here in sweden would be a 70cc with an 18-20 inch bar. Although not much of anything is cut by hand anymore....
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Jet47
ArboristSite Operative
I prefer my 562 xp with either a 16" or 18" bar cutting nothing but trees between 20" and 30" (mostly spruce). My 372 xp has been regulated to blocking up firewood.
That is a bit of a stretch but it seems it is the same bore cutting vs. cutting from the back debate. Depends on a few things like what kind of face you like to use, what kind/size wood are you cutting, what kind of terrain and so on. A bigger setup for production here in sweden would be a 70cc with an 18-20 inch bar. Although not much of anything is cut by hand anymore....
One of dudes arguments was that European cutters used short bars. And frankly 18" is a short bar on a 70cc saw...
But my question would be how big of trees do you folks get to cut on average, cause out here 30" or bigger is pretty common.
As for comparing bore cutting to just cutting, I won't bother with arguing... other then saying, bore cutting has its uses, but by no means should it be used on every tree.
Standard vs Humboldt, is merely a matter of preference vs terrain, steep ground, will always be a humboldt, or any sort of thinning i will always use a humboldt.
nighthunter
addicted to arboristsite
I do a lot tree falling in ireland 99.9% is hardwoods ranging from 1-4 foot in diameter. I use a 461 with either 20 or 24" bar but if your a production faller you need the trees on the ground quicker a bigger bar would win over smaller bar anyday. I have a 660 with a 30" that i rarely use
First, I am from the US and have lived in Sweden since 2009, I do not work in the forest industry here, I am no expert. I do know several landowners here and take a big interest in forest activities and talk to whoever I can about forestry and logging. That said, in this region of Sweden (Kronoberg) it is predominantly spruce wih some pine and a small amount of hardwood. Ground is basically flat and probably 95% of logging is mechanized. A large prcentage of the land here is privately owned and there are a few guys, and I mean a few, that do there own thinning and harvests. The guys that I have met run 560's with 15-18'' bars, mostly .325. Wood is mostly in the 12-24 inch range. Further south it is much more hardwood, oak and beech, 372's and 576's are much more common with bar lengths 18-20 inches running .375. This is not to say there are not guys running bigger bars but they are in the minority. On big stuff guys just gut the face and bore it.
I could ramble for pages about Swedish ideas concerning chainsaw safety but the long and short of it, no pun intended, is longer bars are more dangerous because they are harder to control and fatigue the operator faster which causes more accidents. Always bore cut and leave a strap for maximum control even on trees that are leaning back. Most guys that have a fair amount of experience just bore in and cut around the back throwing in a wedge or two as they go.
sunfish
Fish Head
Just depends on the saws and wood size. Argument could go either way.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
So it's not the size of your bar but how you use it then ?
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can I ask how a long bar is harder to control? More people are likely to get hurt with a short bar with a kick back especially boring. Now to back leaners I was taught with jacks where we start with a back cut then a seat for the jacks to preload the cut the same goes for wedging smaller wood. Fatigue is always a concern with any faller but having to chase your butt doing all of that all day will make anyone tired. Take a 40" fir or spruce 36" bar takes 5 maybe 10 minutes to get down all from one side, now do it your way with the 1/4 deep face punch the heat out and gut because I can't reach the heart probably takes 30 minutes or so as well as it's more work with more chances of a kick back.
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I've been told by some that if your chainsaw isn't ported and muffler modded, it's a waste of time using it.
Who doesn't want to shave off 3.5 seconds per cut?
Who doesn't want to shave off 3.5 seconds per cut?
Jet47
ArboristSite Operative
In my line of work I get paid for how much I do. Cutting exclusively 20-30 inch trees, mostly spruce, I agree a longer bar will get those trees on the ground quicker then a shorter bar. But I also have to limb the tree and I prefer a shorter bar for this. I have tried numerous lengths of bars to maximize my production. For me it is 16-18".
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
I also have to limb and buck, most of the stuff is between 150ft+ with a 32 or 36 you just walk down the log measure, mark, limb, then buck on the way back. In an hour depending on length and break out it's about 2 to 3 large firs.
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Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Do you even know what a back leaning tree is? ALWAYS bore cut a back leaner leaving a strap? Please tell me what happens when you cut that strap. Does the tree suddenly swing forward on the stump and head toward the fall all in one motion? You need to video this miracle and show to us heathens! You don't need to wedge the tree or saw in a Dutchman to help swing the tree? And the "guys that have a fair amount of experience" don't even need a face cut! Another miracle, "just bore in and cut around the back".
You really should not comment on things you know nothing about. Owning a chainsaw does not make you an expert. You are in way over your head. Just read the thread and move on. Here where the tree come in all shapes and sizes bore cutting is another tool in the tool box. Good to know when needed but not used very often.
