This is my MS180 & MS360 to do list.

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Overkill338

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I love the 180's,so light and nimble and powerful for it is. This is my to do list.

WT-215 Carb $8.46
Ported Muffler.
Intake and exhaust ports polished to a mirror shine.
7 tooth Rim drive (Oregon #523046X $21.99)
14", 0.050", 3/8 LP bar
(WoodlandPRO MS50)
Semi Chisel 0.050" LP chain
(WoodlandPRO 30LP50, $30.99 for b&c)
$61.44 for all of it.

MS360 Pro
Ported Muffler
Retuned Carb
16" Bar (have bar from a 028. 16", .063", 3/8)
16" full chisel chain
(WoodlandPRO 16" chisel, .063", 3/8, $13.78)

Will my 180 run like a 2.3 hp MS211?

Also, are the WoodlandPRO a good brand of chain and bar?

Thanks fellas
 
Not so much the power... well.. that does suck too.. but it's just the no weight to the saw and the antivibe is horrible (least I really feel it in my hands). I've been running a 460 Arctic Stihl with 24" bar since this fall (was a 288 Husqy before, but I need to fix it) so I guess I'm just used to a Cadillac vs a Pinto.
 
Intresting that sprocket kit 7 tooth Rim drive (Oregon #523046X $21.99) is actually called out for all these models and 3/8 (presumably 3/8lp)
http://www.lawnmowerpartsoutlet.com...hl-017-018-019-MS-170-180-191-210_p_6351.html

I have found that the Oregon small spline 3/8 works with that chain but if one has a Stihl the mini spline set up fits quite a bit better
Part number 1123 007 1030 They do not rate for saws smaller than the 021 210 but seems that link above would indicate it would fit smaller.

picco.sprocket.vx.chain.a.JPG vx.chain.around.oregon.3.eights.sprocket.a.JPG vx.chain.around.oregon.3.eights.sprocket.b.JPG

This has been beet to death on this and other internet forums already.

As for "Is woodland pro a good brand?' It is Bailey's house brand and may have been sourced from different places over time. And that may vary with the specific item. In that 3/8lp class (chain) The stihl products are better but a bit larger in just about every way except the distance between drive links. Going 7 tooth and 0.050 on that saw a Stihl 180 I think the Oregon 91px or obsolete vx will be the easiest pulling but shorter cutters.
 
Intresting that sprocket kit 7 tooth Rim drive (Oregon #523046X $21.99) is actually called out for all these models and 3/8 (presumably 3/8lp)
http://www.lawnmowerpartsoutlet.com...hl-017-018-019-MS-170-180-191-210_p_6351.html

I have found that the Oregon small spline 3/8 works with that chain but if one has a Stihl the mini spline set up fits quite a bit better
Part number 1123 007 1030 They do not rate for saws smaller than the 021 210 but seems that link above would indicate it would fit smaller.

View attachment 626577 View attachment 626578 View attachment 626579

This has been beet to death on this and other internet forums already.

As for "Is woodland pro a good brand?' It is Bailey's house brand and may have been sourced from different places over time. And that may vary with the specific item. In that 3/8lp class (chain) The stihl products are better but a bit larger in just about every way except the distance between drive links. Going 7 tooth and 0.050 on that saw a Stihl 180 I think the Oregon 91px or obsolete vx will be the easiest pulling but shorter cutters.

Thanks franny. I'm still getting a new saw, but the 180 is priceless for limbing and cleaning up downed trees. My aunt has a 100 foot tall white pine down in her yard now that needs butchered. I plan to take the 180 and the 360.

I just hoped I could use the rim sprocket with a 14" chain.
 
Unless the saw is fried, I wouldn’t port the 180....I have rebuilt a lot of them, you will have to take it completely apart and re-seal with a good sealant, (I use dirko)....

I would just do a muff nod to the 180 and tune accordingly....people can say what they want, but the 180 with a 16” bar is a fine light saw for what it is....if a guy can sharpen a chain, it will cut just fine!!!
 
The MS180 is a very fragile saw to work on. They are not really intended to be worked on much, more of a throw away saw. The piston crown is paper thin and the connecting rod is stamped. The clutch spider is easily broken and the flywheel key prone to shearing. You can avoid these issues if you follow the service manual to the letter, but much greater care must be taken when working on these cheaply built saws.
 
Oh, I have nothing really against the little saws, I didn't mean for it to be a "my wang is bigger" thing.

Seems like many that come in to the shop don't get fixed. Unless it's a real simple job, it's often near the same cost just to buy a new one. They are pretty much a n orange and white "Wild Thing".
 
The MS180 is a very fragile saw to work on. They are not really intended to be worked on much, more of a throw away saw. The piston crown is paper thin and the connecting rod is stamped. The clutch spider is easily broken and the flywheel key prone to shearing. You can avoid these issues if you follow the service manual to the letter, but much greater care must be taken when working on these cheaply built saws.
And, I suspect that the average MS180 owner isn't the type to follow instructions or even read them.
 
The 180 aren’t really that hard to work on.....just take your time and use a good piston stop!!!
 
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