still ms250 question

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm not a Stihl guy, but running a saw with the brake on and melting the case is simply operator error and not a design flaw. Dogging the saw and slipping the clutch to the point it melts the case is also operator error. I've never been able to get a saw to cut anything with the brake applied, the brake is made to stop the chain so I think the OP saw was abused and I doubt he used it to cut wood with the brake engaged.
 
I have “pro” saws, but I still use my 6-7 year old ms250 a lot for smaller wood....it wears a 16” bar now, but it wore an 18” most of its life....

I have had that 18” bar buried in oak, hickory, ash, etc...NEVER once have I had an issue with the clutch area getting hot...you can not judge any saw, brand, model, designs, etc on running a saw with the damn brake on...:dumb:

To the OP, the ms250 is a fine saw for what it is...many tree guys around here used them because they were cheaper, but will take some abuse from the less experienced ground guys!!!
 
Well come on.....spill the beans.

195 hp and 428 lbs? Doesn't sound like a reg. production bike to me.

ZX-10R, I think the most recent bikes are running around that from the factory but mine was only 173 from the factory, last time it was on a dyno was 167.xx at the wheel. Still have it, don't ride it. Took a few years to figure out how stupid dangerous these bikes are, without the already present dangers on the road.

I'm pretty sure BMW's S1000RR or whatever it is, puts out every bit of 190 and then some.
 
ZX-10R, I think the most recent bikes are running around that from the factory but mine was only 173 from the factory, last time it was on a dyno was 167.xx at the wheel. Still have it, don't ride it. Took a few years to figure out how stupid dangerous these bikes are, without the already present dangers on the road.

I'm pretty sure BMW's S1000RR or whatever it is, puts out every bit of 190 and then some.


I had a 2003 Kawasaki ZRX1200-R. It ran pretty good. Retro kind of looking bike. Not hyper-sport bike strong, but strong enough. ;)
 
So I just got back from a week's trip, so I just returned to this project. To summarize: it's a brand new ms250. Maybe a tank or two through it. A rookie ran it with the brake on. Dealership didn't bail him out. So he threw it in the trash can. I am trying to resurrect it, but I obviously don't want to throw money into a pit. I broke it down. Clutch area is pretty smoked. One bearing (the clutch side) was not good. So I put new bearings/seals in it. The cylinder looks unscathed. Piston looks good. Today I replaced the bearings and reassembled it (I haven't messed with the clutch yet), and tested the compression. Just 30psi. Unless I did something wrong in testing the compression. I tried to start it, but couldn't. I checked for spark, and I have that. The end of the crank towards the clutch is discolored, so obviously it was hot but I didn't notice any damage. Suggestions? Is it likely the rings are bad? Any tests to run? I'm obviously trying to avoid randomly throwing new parts into it. thanks. Rick ps. maybe buy an aftermarket engine?
 
my friend had a new ms250. He isn't exactly mechanically inclined and he burned it up about the 3rd time he used. He isn't sure what happened, but the shop says that he ran it full throttle with the brake on. Anyway, the shop wouldn't fix it so my friend threw the new saw in the trash. I got it. Just took it apart. From the pic you can see that the case took some intense heat around the clutch. I was going to put a new clutch in it, and new bearings. I think everything else is good. I don't see anything else bad. Here is my question: behind the clutch, in the plastic housing, are little reservoirs, or voids. Are those just for strength? Or do they have some other function? In other words: can I use this old case, as fried as it is, or do I need another plastic case? thanks! rickView attachment 625849
I've seen a lot worse & Stihl oil. He is exactly right you may have to shave some burnt plastic off but try it. Also sometimes that crank seal will cook also. Take a toothpick & see if it's still pliable.
 
update: I went to get a compression tester at an auto store. it registered 95, which is what it registers on my 025 (that runs). But the 025 is nearly 20 years old and has been run pretty hard for a homeowner saw. The ms250 is virtually new (but it went through getting dang hot). My tester wasn't sealing properly.
 
A few ????

What sealant did you use....

Did you make sure the oil passage way wasn’t ruined before you continued....

I have a few 250 cases that don’t look to bad, but the oil passage way is ruined in one way or another...
 
Do you get a pop promise to start if you give it a prime of mixed gas?
Might Look at the spark plug before priming and see if it's wet, if wet plug tip it's flooded, think about timing or weak spark, bad spark plug, if you don't ever get any promise to pop and it appears flooded.

If it has real good spark and a prime of mixed gas into the carb throat does not get a pop, maybe timing off somehow. (95#'s should get a pop)

Also most likely the NEW automotive gauge is reading really low on compression at 95 for two different Stiihl Saws, but like you say the other saw runs good at 95 on your new gauge. Quite common for OEM automotive compression gauges to lie about compression on small cc engines and read low.
 
this is helpful. headed to church, but I'll investigate later today. The plug is wet. I did not get the typical "pop" but I did hear something that made me think it was trying. I should try the plug from the 025 that runs. I ran a wire from the ground on the engine block out to the spark plug to test for spark. it was clearly evident in day light. Do not know if that's weak or not, but I could clearly see it.

What influences the timing?

That makes sense on the automotive gauge. thank you.
 
Just a SAFETY hint: (to protect your jewels when cranking a flooded chainsaw.

HarleyT will like this one.

I had one that would not start awhile back and found it was severely flooded, pulled the spark plug and seen it was really wet, put the spark plug on it's wire and gently pulled the rope and had good spark, so I placed the saw between my legs and gave the rope a hard yank to un-flood the cylinder area with the spark plug dangling on it's wire and she blowed fire and gas between my legs toward my jewels like a dragon. It hurts when trying to whip out a crotch fire trying to gently save your testicles. I saved all, but first couple of whacks to the crotch took my breath. (and my voice was high pitched for awhile. Sure was thankful my wife did not see that one she would still be laughing.

Won't forget that one.;)

It had a bad needle seat in the carb.
 
About 18 years ago, I was working at that one shathole dealership, and the parts lookup area was in a back stockroom, and one nice spring morning I noticed a hole in one of the ceiling tiles, and wasp/hornets were clumsily flying in and out of it, but being still in early spring, they were still kind of cold and sluggish, so I tried to keep aware
of them.
I had several customers in there, as I was looking up parts {books, no computer}. As I was waiting on hold on the phone, thumbing through a pricebook, I saw a big wasp drop out of the hole and head straight for my face.
It landed right below my eye and just clung there, the customers didn't notice. I took the price book and began smacking my face in a wide sweeping swing, to try and knock the wasp off without getting stung. I couldn't move it because it was in a slight depression guarded by my cheek and brow.
After about 5 or so blows, it finally stung me and I finally knocked it off, and stomped the little ****.

The look on the customer's faces was priceless.... They all thought I was a tad crazy before then....
Trying to explain about the wasp didn't help to convince them otherwise..
 
I was hunting in Idaho one year. I didn't realize it but I was standing on a hornet ground nest. Well they were still kinda cold and sluggish but not to slow that they couldn't crawl and fly up my pants leg (on the inside). Those of you that know hornets realize that they can sting multiple times. Well I would not advise dancing on the nest to dislodge them. It only causes more to attack! Didn't get as far as the twins though. Mike
 
Good news! sort of. I followed Okie's advice. Got a new NGK plug. It had been sitting all night. It fired right up and sounded great, but since the garage door was closed I didn't run it long. Then I put the rest of the pieces back on ... clutch, cover, bar, chain, etc. Filled it up with oil and gas. And removed my jumper wire that went to ground on the engine block. The only thing I hadn't tested was the oiling, but the passages looked good. I was optimistic it was a finished project. I put it all back together and I can't get it to start again for my life. I did, however, turn the saw over and over while putting everything back together ... the plug is wet ... so I'm guessing I flooded it. But every other time I've flooded a saw if I pulled the plug, yanked the cord a few times, and let it air out, it would start. I've tried that 3 times. no pop. So the good news is that it ran. The bad news is that I can't get it to run, and I haven't managed to check whether it is oiling properly. Ideas? Thank you!
 
I didn't reread the entire thread, so this might already been mentioned.
He ran it with the brake on. Sounds like he knows nothing about chainsaws. Did he use gas oil mix?
If he straight gassed it, it might have low compression, making it hard to start.
Did you pull the muffler, and look at the piston and ring.?

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top