My 50s ford would break traction before the bucket was full of stone.
4wd would be nice.
Compact or sub compact tractor?
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My 50s ford would break traction before the bucket was full of stone.
4wd would be nice.
We sell Kubota, NH and Case, If you want something 60 HP and under get the Kubota, over 60 HP get the case or NH, the Deere's are good too in the 60HP and up class. Kubota's are the best small tractor going. Don't take my word for it go test drive them all. They are the best in compact tractors. John Deere, Case and NH does not hold a candle to them, and they have no interest for 60 months right now. the run this pro mo a lot. The resale Value is tip top too.
BUT go test drive them you will see for yourself
BUT go test drive them you will see for yourself
The drive over deck is not made heavy enough to drive over repeatedly, will be junk in a few years, Kubota has them too, I recommend not getting them.
They all have them. Never sounded like a good idea to me but like I said I will mainly be mowing during the summer with the loader off. Most loader work would be fine with the deck on. I can't justify the expense of a tractor if I can't use it weekly. Yes I could really use a loader around here but I can get some 30 year old thing to use occasionally but I want a nice mower also. So far I'm leaning towards the Kubota over the john deere and new holland. I won't buy a mahindra either. The other couple I'm still thinking about. But in the end I'm not going to cheap out on a major investment.
thor97
ArboristSite Member
I have a bx2360 and have had it for 6 years. It has been wonderful with absolutely no problems. It is a wonderful mowing tractor with incredible power. It is only 23 hp, but will mow anything, no problem. I have the 54" deck, as it fits my hilly place better. The 60" is also available on her. I don't take mine in the woods, but I have hauled thousands of rounds up to 32" diameter. I buy my wood by the logging truck load, cut it into rounds, and then haul them to my splitters (Eastonmade 12-22 and supersplit) . This year I will do approximately 300 face cords. I have thought many times about getting a b series, but this little girl is paid for and does the job. The bucket is only 4' wide, versus 5' wide on the b series, but the b has the exact same 23 hp engine. The b sits higher, and is a little bigger, but the bx is a true workhorse. I can run all day long at full throttle on 5 gallons of fuel. I load the bucket as full as I can get it, stacked over the top, and it lifts it, no problem. I use a backblade for ballast. I also plow a 300' driveway with the backblade and fel. Those drive over decks are a scam, as you still have to manually connect the pto shaft, and all pins and brackets. I bought mine with 0% interest and have no regrets. I could never do what I do without it. Whichever you get, you'll have no regrets.
That's what I want to hear but my issue is the price. If it were 8 grand cheaper for the bx I would seriously consider it. It's less than 3 grand and in payments over 60 to 84 months that's a few dollars a month.
I think either way of be happy but I want to spend the cash the most efficint way.
There really isn't a large physical size difference between the BX and the B series tractors. But you do step up to higher capacities on the larger framed tractors. You get Cat 1 3 point rather than a cat 0. Option to get universal skid steer quick attach. More ground clearance.
The BX would do what you want to do, but if you're wanting to buy once, cry once, get the B. You have more property than I do with woods and I dont regret getting a B2650 over a smaller framed BX. Especially if you're going to use it for firewood duties. You will run out of tractor sooner with the BX...
The BX would do what you want to do, but if you're wanting to buy once, cry once, get the B. You have more property than I do with woods and I dont regret getting a B2650 over a smaller framed BX. Especially if you're going to use it for firewood duties. You will run out of tractor sooner with the BX...
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Kinda. LS made and still does make tractors for NH. I don't know when they started selling tractors in the US under their own name, but it's not like they stopped making tractors for NH and launched their own brand. FWIW, I'd absolutely consider an LS, Kioti (they made the bobcat tractors), or TYM (made the Cabela's tractors). I own a Kubota and a Shibaura which says NH on it. Both Japanese tractors. I have good support for both at the same dealer. I could've gotten more tractor, or at least more features for less money with a Kioti, but the dealer was two hours away and didn't even call me with a quote after we drove there for a test drive.
Speaking of test drives, go sit on several machines. I'd wager that the choice will be a lot easier after doing so. I'd recommend a B if you're set on mowing with your tractor. An L2501 and a zero turn would be better, but it sounds like you've got your mind made up. If you can swing it, get the highest HP deluxe B they make. Maybe it's a B3030. It's not a huge deal, but the little bells and whistles are actually nice. My NH has all that stuff and you do miss it when you get on a basic model.
sirbuildalot
Addicted to ArboristSite
There is a pretty significant size difference. Much larger tires. Heavier frame, longer, wider, taller. The BX's hitch is actually a limited cat 1. Not a category 0. I'm not aware of any current tractors that offer cat 0. A lot of old garden tractors used to have cat 0. I do agree he should be looking at bigger machines than a .BX
The Ls brand seemed like they were competing with John Deere because they built the same tractor. Same options but they do not charge you to change tires or for the larger mower deck. I have to do more research when the time gets closer and go try a few out.
I don't need a tractor bad enough to buy a tractor and a zero turn. The tractor would sit a lot. And used tractors always have issues unless you pay decent money.
I, personally, wouldn't consider it significant when put into context of the increased ratings at the front and rear. Especially since either series can be had in roughly same HP ratings.
Yes the frame is larger. Yes the tires are larger on the B compared to the BX. Obviously. My point was that in context of the increased ratings, the physical size overall is not that significant. JMO. Especially when you factor in the cost difference and the scope of the OP's property.
Thanks for the correction on the 3 point. It still limits one to specific implements. With a standard cat 1, the availability is better and the opportunity to rent and borrow is going to be greater. The 3 point control on the B series is better as well.
As mentioned the B series can be equipped with a standard quick attach. That opens up an entire world of possibilities compared to the BX.
I'm not bashing the BX. They're solid machines and kinda neat. I wouldn't look at the two side by side and say that the B is that much larger compared to the BX, overall. And in referring to physical presence, not specs.
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Whatever you choose, test drive it
Yes Sir. I have driven 5 different Kubota compact loader tractors and feel cramped to me.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree I'd go sit on a few see what you feel is comfortable. I would go with Compact but I don't mow with mine. I have an L series and I could see it being difficult to mow with (especially with loader on) due to size.
With that being said I had inherited a sub compact (can't remember brand) and it quickly was sold b/c it was so small to sit on and try to operate the loader etc... after being accustomed to a compact tractor.
With that being said I had inherited a sub compact (can't remember brand) and it quickly was sold b/c it was so small to sit on and try to operate the loader etc... after being accustomed to a compact tractor.
Quick detach loader is a must. I won't mow with it on and will most likely leave it off unless I need it. I see these people mowing with the loader all the way up in the air or still on the front and it looks ridiculous. Being a wooded lot with grass, I do have some trees to mow around and some narrow places so I don't need the added length when mowing.
I had the full size ford so those sub compacts look like garden tractors with a little loader on the front. I'm sure they are a lot more than that but 17 grand for a bx2380 seems crazy.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would not get hung up on horsepower #'s. The weight of the machine is much more important for ability to do work and stability. All have plenty of power.
I run a small Arborist/tree service. Two years ago I looked at alternatives in order to easily handle larger trees. I ended up with a Kubota BX2670. I got a drive over mower deck for use at home. I got a land pride grapple along with the regular bucket and a ballast box. All under $20k brand new. We routinely use it on bigger trees tp handle larger logs. The FEL is rated at 600lbs, but I have handled 800lb white oak logs with no worries. The drive over deck is anything but junk. I can have connected or disconnected in 90 seconds and it is heavy duty. I bought a quick connect for the FEL from mytractortools.com. I can switch from bucket to grapple and back in less than a minute. I can take the whole FEL off in about 60 seconds for mowing. I am.on a second set of front tires and bought higher rated ones. Still turf tires because we use the tractor on the job in upscale communities. I am able to cut clear logs longer to haul out and cut for lumber vs cutting shorter and usibg for firewood. I love my BX and would not trade it for a skidsteer & a zero turn.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
I have a Kabota B5200 sub compact tractor that I bought in 1985. I mow 4 acres with it plus disk my garden, push dirt with the box blabe. I don't have the FEL option because it's so small it would be useless. Though zero turn mowers are fast, i hate having to keep both hands on the handles to make'er go.
If you mow next to or under limbs, you can't lift or push a limb out of your way and still drive at the same time.
Did I mention it's a 3 cylinder diesel! It holds 3 gallons of fuel and I can mow my 4 acre lot twice on that 3 gallons of fuel.
Mine has the 48'' belly mower so it floats and cuts perfectly level with the ground, Unlike a brush hog that doesn't float.
33 years and still going strong.
If you mow next to or under limbs, you can't lift or push a limb out of your way and still drive at the same time.
Did I mention it's a 3 cylinder diesel! It holds 3 gallons of fuel and I can mow my 4 acre lot twice on that 3 gallons of fuel.
Mine has the 48'' belly mower so it floats and cuts perfectly level with the ground, Unlike a brush hog that doesn't float.
33 years and still going strong.
I run water in my tractor tires, it makes it heaver and it pushes and pulls better. It also stops flats. Well it doesn't stop them but if you get a nail hole it will take a week for it to go flat. Water can escape as fast as air. For you northern folk, just add some antifreeze to keep them from freezing.
byron2
ArboristSite Member
I have a JD 1023E ...60" Mower Deck , FEL and rock rake .. Its good for what I do around here ,there is not a lot of ground clearance so you would need good trails to your wood ... I buy my wood cut and split these days and it comes in real handy moving it around .. The rake and FEL keep the driveway in good shape .. Its probably more than I need for my 3 acres .. But given my kids homes are close by it stays busy doinf the odd jobs needed around a home ...Its not something you can beat on , its a light duty tractor .. It works great for my needs no regrets ...
Just to add I wouldn't want any bigger tractor given my mowing conditions.. trees and things that I need to mow around..
Just to add I wouldn't want any bigger tractor given my mowing conditions.. trees and things that I need to mow around..
My B5200 does not have the drive over mower deck. You have to slide it under from the side. I rarely take it off. I only take it off in the winter when I don't mow
