New bar questions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

waterweasle

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Sep 25, 2017
Messages
30
Reaction score
20
Location
NY
A while back you guys talked me through my purchase of a larger bar (42inch oregon). Thinking of upgrading to a cannon super bar. 50”........my question. Is with the 42” oregon is kind of “bendy”/flexible........are the cannon bars more rigid??
 
I don't have one but everything I've read, they are more rigid. I'm actually looking at a 50" myself for milling. Was just looking at Cannon's website last night.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 
I believe cannon bars in general are a tad stiffer, more so in the jumbo sizes...
That aside, both Oregon and Cannon are really good bars.
Personally I would go with Cannon as they are very close to where I live and the 84" I have is great!
 
I believe cannon bars in general are a tad stiffer, more so in the jumbo sizes...
That aside, both Oregon and Cannon are really good bars.
Personally I would go with Cannon as they are very close to where I live and the 84" I have is great!
I’m only looking at a 50”. Couldn’t even ponder an 84!!!!
 
Anyone familiar with the Husqvarna Branded HT343 series bars?

I have read that the HT stands for Husqvarna Titanium, supposedly a Steel/Titanium alloy?, I'm not a metalurgist, so I have no idea if that alloy is even feasible?

How are the HT343 Bars for rigidity?, as I am planning on using them for milling, I just ordered a 44" HT343-128, and a 60" HT343-172 from www.alamia.us.

84" Holy Smokes Batman, are you out to kill Coast Redwoods, or Sky Scrapers? :surprised3:

TIA, for any Info or opinions on the HT343 bars,

Doug :cheers:
 
Yes branded Ti Bars do use a iron/Ti Alloy which is relatively unusual (see below).
However, here may be less reliable brands that may label their bars as "Titanium" but it's just a lable and they don't use any Ti in them.

Nerdy metallurgical stuff
********************
It is quite unusual to see Ti as an additive to steel even in very small amounts to make an alloy, probably because it's expensive, does not combine easily, and doesn't usually add anything useful to the steel.
Ti is sometimes added to the iron/steel making process because Ti is very reactive and scavenges unwanted impurities from the iron/steel but this also removes the Ti from the iron/steel
In contrast, there are Ti/Fe alloys that include up to about 20% iron. This is done to take advantage of the lighter weight of Ti.
This would be a super bar material but because of the high Ti content this alloy is expensive and I doubt any bars are using this alloy.

I have a 44" GB titanium bar that is not significantly lighter than a similar size regular bar so there must not be too much Ti in the bar.
It seems to be a bit stiffer than a regular bar which could be the result of the Ti alloy?
The most significant material added to the GB CN40 bars is not the Ti but the Carbon Nitride injected into the bar rails to make them super hard.

I have an interesting Ti story you may be interested in.
One of my brothers was a trouble shooting engineer working out of Denver and used to fly all over the world to advise on various engineering problems/issues.
One time he was in Kazakstan trouble shooting slurry pumps on a large mine site and the hinge on his laptop snapped and would not sit at any sort of usable angle by itself.
When he took the laptop into the mine site workshop to show the machinists a drawing on the laptop screen one of the machinists said he could fix the hinge if he left the laptop with them overnight.
Next morning my bro returned to pick up his laptop and what they had done was remove the broken plastic/steel hinge and replaced it with a solid Ti hinge.
 
A while back you guys talked me through my purchase of a larger bar (42inch oregon). Thinking of upgrading to a cannon super bar. 50”........my question. Is with the 42” oregon is kind of “bendy”/flexible........are the cannon bars more rigid??

I was so impressed with the 50" superbar I ordered the 60" (just in case) that is on the stump in my avatar. They are very stiff, and work very well milling.
I have a 72" dual powered cannon bar that actually will cut 60". Dint know about the dif in the nomenclature. Have the adaptors to mate to ms-460 size studs and comes with the helper handle. If any one has interest.
Part of the trouble with cannon is the time between order and manufacture, then shipping. I found a new forester 72" bar for way less than 1/2 price for a cannon @ amazon. Came within ten days and is stiff. Taking care mounting on the mill frame makes a difference also.
Mill safe & enjoy
 
I'm no metalurgest but my 50" cannon just came in and it's definitely a stiffy!
Can't wait for my chains to come in and get into some BIG wood.
Johnnym
 
A while back you guys talked me through my purchase of a larger bar (42inch oregon). Thinking of upgrading to a cannon super bar. 50”........my question. Is with the 42” oregon is kind of “bendy”/flexible........are the cannon bars more rigid??

Much More Rigid.
392bc34a37b274502d38d96b08688cc1.jpg


This is a 50” Cannon.
 
I know my 60” is a touch floppy it’s a length you start a cut with a 32” then go to town with the long bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 41” GB I had for my 066 is more floppy than the 50” Cannon.

Same for the Stihl ES 41”.
 
I was so impressed with the 50" superbar I ordered the 60" (just in case) that is on the stump in my avatar. They are very stiff, and work very well milling.
I have a 72" dual powered cannon bar that actually will cut 60". Dint know about the dif in the nomenclature. Have the adaptors to mate to ms-460 size studs and comes with the helper handle. If any one has interest.
Part of the trouble with cannon is the time between order and manufacture, then shipping. I found a new forester 72" bar for way less than 1/2 price for a cannon @ amazon. Came within ten days and is stiff. Taking care mounting on the mill frame makes a difference also.
Mill safe & enjoy
How does your 661 run the 50" Tony? I'm thinking that may be my next purchase.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 
How does your 661 run the 50" Tony? I'm thinking that may be my next purchase.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
I don't know yet.:drinkingcoffee:All I have used on the 50-60" bars has been my muf modded 460 with square chisel skip chain. The 661 has a ported cylinder, empty opened outlet muff. It runs through the same logs with the same b&c quite a bit faster. In the near future I have eyes on a four foot diameter stump that is six feet long. (since it's laying down) I plan on several table tops or clock faces which depends on end user.:drinkingcoffee:Those cuts will provide more details.
The 661 was bought with the porting done for less than a new one from trading Post. Muffler had only been emptied and left with the stock outlet.as I opened up the opening and drilled small diameter holes into the cover she has sang the tune better:yes:. I'm pleased with the performance and will eventually take a look to see if the timing is stock. Lotta resistance to first start til the lube gets inside and the first fire takes. I allow a warm up and as soon as it accellerates smooth she's in the cut. It's a sweet piece of equipment.
Mill safe and enjoy
 
I don't know yet.:drinkingcoffee:All I have used on the 50-60" bars has been my muf modded 460 with square chisel skip chain. The 661 has a ported cylinder, empty opened outlet muff. It runs through the same logs with the same b&c quite a bit faster. In the near future I have eyes on a four foot diameter stump that is six feet long. (since it's laying down) I plan on several table tops or clock faces which depends on end user.:drinkingcoffee:Those cuts will provide more details.
The 661 was bought with the porting done for less than a new one from trading Post. Muffler had only been emptied and left with the stock outlet.as I opened up the opening and drilled small diameter holes into the cover she has sang the tune better:yes:. I'm pleased with the performance and will eventually take a look to see if the timing is stock. Lotta resistance to first start til the lube gets inside and the first fire takes. I allow a warm up and as soon as it accellerates smooth she's in the cut. It's a sweet piece of equipment.
Mill safe and enjoy
Thanks Tony. I'm still running mine stock. I know a bigger saw would be better suited but it's not cheap playing at this level. Lol. Appreciate your response.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Tony. I'm still running mine stock. I know a bigger saw would be better suited but it's not cheap playing at this level. Lol. Appreciate your response.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
No it's not inexpensive to play with large sized milling! But the payback from the peeps looking for this size slabs can pay back. The furniture maker in Farmington Mo. Has a bandsaw operator who is limited to 24":laughing: When a complaint is made about pricing " please find it somewhere else"!IMG_20180413_183707.jpg This is 38"-39" diameter shag bark hickory I think. Running a 42" Oregon bar with skip chisel chain, I am careful about setting up the Alaskan frame onto the bar. I had a man who had worked in the family saw mill from the time he was twelve. He told me my surfaces were flatter than some of the bandsawmillers he had seen. At the time the man was in his seventies:yes:. I was limited to the ms-460 then.
The solid aluminum bar on the far end is d&t'd for a 1/4" bolt which allows for the bit longer slice with the drilled hole through the center of the sprocket.
Mill safe and enjoy
 
No it's not inexpensive to play with large sized milling! But the payback from the peeps looking for this size slabs can pay back. The furniture maker in Farmington Mo. Has a bandsaw operator who is limited to 24":laughing: When a complaint is made about pricing " please find it somewhere else"!View attachment 647466 This is 38"-39" diameter shag bark hickory I think. Running a 42" Oregon bar with skip chisel chain, I am careful about setting up the Alaskan frame onto the bar. I had a man who had worked in the family saw mill from the time he was twelve. He told me my surfaces were flatter than some of the bandsawmillers he had seen. At the time the man was in his seventies:yes:. I was limited to the ms-460 then.
The solid aluminum bar on the far end is d&t'd for a 1/4" bolt which allows for the bit longer slice with the drilled hole through the center of the sprocket.
Mill safe and enjoy
Funny you replied to this today Tony. UPS just delivered my new Cannon 50" bar and a couple chains. Also ordered an auxiliary oiler and a few square grind loops to give them a try. Lol.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top