Can I flip the bar over?

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inkalition

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I just got a cool old Echo CS-302 at an estate sale for $20, my first saw. It came with the manual, original tools, and a bottle of 2-stroke oil. I'm guessing this must be from the early 70's. At first it would run only with the choke pulled out. I knew I had to get into the carb but didn't have time at the moment. So I put in a fuel mix with a high dosage of seafoam, ran it as much as I could and let it sit for a day. Tried again and now it would idle without the choke, but would die when I tried to rev it. So I tried repeatedly to rev it, then let it sit another day. After that I started it again and it's like a new saw. It starts, idles, and revs like a dream.
Now to my issue... I was testing it on a pallet and it would cut in a couple of inches and the chain would roll at an angle to the left and just spin (yes, the chain is plenty tight). Examining it I discovered the chain had more side-to-side roll on the bottom of the bar than on the top. I flipped the bar over and now the bottom holds the chain with much less slop. Is running it with the bar upside down okay?
Thanks


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Like Ed Crawford said.
If a bar is designed with an oil passage for both sides, it is a good practice to flip the bar every time the chain is sharpened, or some other regular interval, to even the wear on both sides of the bar. It sounds like failure to flip this bar periodically may lead to its premature failure.

For $20 that saw sounds like a great deal.
 
I'd take that bar to a reputable dealer and have it dressed. They'll square up the rails and grind off any mushrooming of the rail surfaces.

Absolutely turn the bar over as noted earlier to promote even wear. And assuming you have them on your bar, clean those oil passages every time you flip the bar. Otherwise the unused passage fills up with crud and won't allow oil to pass through when you turn the bar over.
 
I'd take that bar to a reputable dealer and have it dressed. They'll square up the rails and grind off any mushrooming of the rail surfaces.

Absolutely turn the bar over as noted earlier to promote even wear. And assuming you have them on your bar, clean those oil passages every time you flip the bar. Otherwise the unused passage fills up with crud and won't allow oil to pass through when you turn the bar over.
It sounds as if the problem is worn /widened groove rather than uneven rail wear if the saw runs well & the purchase price of the saw a replacement bar/chain would setit up & flip the bar as said at each sharpening
 
You bought an older saw at an estate sale so who knows what bar/chain combo you have. Verify the gauge of the chain and bar are the same. Verify the chain has the appropriate number of drive links for the bar. The drive link count should be stamped into the bar somewhere.

You might not want to use that mix oil either. It may be as old as the saw.:surprised3:
 
Thanks for the replies. I decided to just go ahead and replace the bar & chain but I'm finding out this little guide bar for 1/4" pitch isn't easy to find. I'm going to call Oregon today & see if they have something I'm not finding online.
 
Thanks for the replies. I decided to just go ahead and replace the bar & chain but I'm finding out this little guide bar for 1/4" pitch isn't easy to find. I'm going to call Oregon today & see if they have something I'm not finding online.

Maybe look at swapping it over to 3/8LP. If you're buying bar and chain then all you'll need is a new sprocket. Existing sprocket is likely well worn.

3/8LP is much more common than 1/4 pitch.
 
That's all it takes to change pitch? I'll definitely look into doing that.

Yes, if the bar is set for 3/8LP than all you need is the correct sprocket. The saw sprocket and the bar end (and of course the chain) are the two things that need the correct pitch. Only other thing to watch is bar groove size and chain (both .050" for example).
 

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