Tuning by ear - how long did it take you?

[EngineNoO9]

Now that I have all my saws running, I wanted to make sure they were all tuned. Mostly my craftsman 3.7" and my poulan 2055. The craftsman I just rebuilt and fired for the first time in probably 15 years or so. I used the starting settings (1 turn out) and had to fatten up the low speed to get it to idle. I seem ok with adjusting low speed as I'm hearing it ok to find the sweet spot. The high speed is where I'm struggling. I watched and read numerous things on it. Seemed easy enough until I tried doing it myself. Maybe it's my ears...

I considered getting a tach to do it based on max rpms to help as a noob to carb tuning but that only helps me with the craftsman. I can't find jack for max rpms for the poulans (all newer - 2055, 3416, 2775)...

The poulan 2055 I pulled the limiter caps off as it was bogging bad when I would squeeze the trigger and I couldn't get the adjustment out of it. I fattened up the high speed and it now revs good... Once again I'm not really hearing if it's right though...

Just curious as to how long it took others. I haven't tried them in the cut yet. I drained them all for now (with the exception of the 2775 which I'm still working on) until I start cutting and am figuring I'll have to tune a little once I start cutting.

 

[merc_man]

I wouldn't go by a tach for tuning. Good way to blow a saw. All saws are different.
Turn the high end so it is rich at WOT
turn a little at a time till it sounds smooth at WOT. this will be too lean. Turn rich till you get an uneven or gurgle sound. ( this is out of the cut) . The gurgle sound should just clean up and go smooth in the cut and this should be pretty safe setting for the high side.

The low side it sounds like you have it ok...

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[Little Al]

As Merc man says "L" set to default & turn clock or anti until you get a smooth hesitant free rev up & a smooth idle maybe slight "tweek"on the throttle stop screw. "H" as described the only problem you may experience is if the saw you are working on has a limited coil If in doubt err slightly rich a slightly lumpy runner is preferable to a lean tune Do it each time you start the saw for the first half dozen times turn the H&L adjustments out of tune ( always go rich screws anti clock & reset ) you'll soon get the ear for it.

 

[s sidewall]

As mec_man says, if it sputters some in the cut, turn hi speed in just a tad, and try it again. Will sound like it's skipping til in the cut and clear out with out bogging.

Steve

 

[djones]

Tuning by ear is easy once you get the screwdriver to stay attached to the side of your head.

 

[EngineNoO9]

So best to go fat to be safe then slowly turn in?

As Merc man says "L" set to default & turn clock or anti until you get a smooth hesitant free rev up & a smooth idle maybe slight "tweek"on the throttle stop screw. "H" as described the only problem you may experience is if the saw you are working on has a limited coil If in doubt err slightly rich a slightly lumpy runner is preferable to a lean tune Do it each time you start the saw for the first half dozen times turn the H&L adjustments out of tune ( always go rich screws anti clock & reset ) you'll soon get the ear for it.

I think it's just gonna take practice the low speed I got. High speed is definitely where I'm struggling. I figured it wasn't worth screwing around with much more until I start cutting some and then I'll adjust then. I'll practice as you mentioned.

 

[Little Al]

Tuning by ear is easy once you get the screwdriver to stay attached to the side of your head.

If you replace the screws behind your ears ( the ones that hold your head on with spline or pac man headed screws they hold the driver in place a lot better )

 

[chipper1]

You'll find it's very easy to tune certain saws and other are a bit more difficult if your like me.
If you have someone else run the saw you may also be able to hear it 4-stroke better as well.
I typically check my saws with a tach after tuning by ear to see where they are at, then I will try running them a bit richer to see where they have the most power in the cut as max rpm out of the cut doesn't always yield the best performance in the cut from my experience.

 

[Okie]

Here is one good ear tuning link on this site.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

Here is another more detailed involved that has sound video.


https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/t...djustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor



Tuning in the cut with a dull chain is not a good thing.
I very seldom reach for a tach, but I do use a infrared thermometer and check the saws block running temp when in a full bar cut after tuning to make sure the block not overheating.

 

[EngineNoO9]

That second link I read and listened to the sound clips several times. I think I need to listen to it right before trying it on one of mine. And maybe even back to back. I may also need to throw on ear protection while doing it. My ears were bleeding more than being able to focus on the sound it was making.

 

[merc_man]

Here is one good ear tuning link on this site.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

Here is another more detailed involved that has sound video.


https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/t...djustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor



Tuning in the cut with a dull chain is not a good thing.
I very seldom reach for a tach, but I do use a infrared thermometer and check the saws block running temp when in a full bar cut after tuning to make sure the block not overheating.

So what is a good cylinder temp for a saw?


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[Okie]

You asked:
So what is a good cylinder temp for a saw?


Reaching max of 350F slow in a full bar cut. I usually see around 325F max in a full bar cut and the block does not reach this area rapidly. The temp rising fast to 375F and headed for 400F fast is a bad thing.
Using a not-contact IR can also detect a chainsaw's block getting too hot due to other things other than a lean run, for example not enough cooling air across the block, excessive piston scrubbing.
Good reliable NON-contact IR's can be found for less than $20 with free shipping now days.

Here is one link to some discussion about such at about 3/4 way down the page.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/crappy-tach-seized-my-moms-saw.309108/#post-6231851

 

[EngineNoO9]

Hmm. I've been wanting one for other uses. May need to pick one up.

 

[EngineNoO9]

Here is one good ear tuning link on this site.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

Here is another more detailed involved that has sound video.


https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/t...djustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor



Tuning in the cut with a dull chain is not a good thing.
I very seldom reach for a tach, but I do use a infrared thermometer and check the saws block running temp when in a full bar cut after tuning to make sure the block not overheating.

The first linked post with the tuning in the wood was helpful. I'd be curious to video while turning to use that as a validator. See if I'm hearing it right.

 

[blsnelling]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

 

[smokey7]

As far as tuning with temp is a wild goose chase without egt probe. Ive seen over 400* on several very healthy saws. Thry reach thst temp rsther quick within 4 full bar cuts in 18" wood. Ir thermometer is nice to use but unless you test the same spot and get to it very very quickly the temp will cool so quick you may think you are safe but not. They make temp sticks that change color based on temp that can be helpful. But still the best waybis egt or 4 stroke no load tuning then in wood testing.

 

[Okie]

As far as tuning with temp is a wild goose chase without egt probe. Ive seen over 400* on several very healthy saws. Thry reach thst temp rsther quick within 4 full bar cuts in 18" wood. Ir thermometer is nice to use but unless you test the same spot and get to it very very quickly the temp will cool so quick you may think you are safe but not. They make temp sticks that change color based on temp that can be helpful. But still the best waybis egt or 4 stroke no load tuning then in wood testing.

I've found from experience it's not a wild goose chase using a IR to confirm that a chainsaw's block is headed for disaster from overheating.
I'm constantly monitoring the temp of the block while the saw is in the full bar cut with the IR. (not taking random measurements) Taking unloaded temp measurements won't get it done because the saws block temp changes too fast with unloaded throttle response. For example a saw that is running lean may (will) run for very long time when doing light cuts on and off the throttle and never overheat.
I've found if I see the block temp immediately head towards 350 and going towards 400 with no indication of wanting to slow down the saw is headed for a seizure and self destruct soon.

Try it with a IR and you will be be surprised how changing the tuning on a chainsaw H jet taking it out of 4 stroke into lean will make a large difference in how fast and how High the block temp rises when in a full bar cut. Best to use your Brother in Laws saw for this test when he is not watching.

Most saws you can find a place on the block in the vicinity of the jug fins at the exhaust port area for aiming the IR red dot. If running too lean the block will usually reach 400F in 30 seconds (or less) in a full bar cut and when little rich the block won't exceed 350 in several full bar cuts back to back and usually just hang out and be happy around 325. (will stay at 350 or less)
When the block heads for 400 fast it's piston is also expanding and will be scrubbing on the cylinder wall soon and headed for a seizure after the damage has already been done to the piston and cylinder walls.
You will find that you can safely take the temp reading without a helper if your saw chain is sharp and just the weight of the saw loads the engine in a full bar cut. The test log needs to be large enough to load the saw bar 75 to 100% of the saws bar length.

 

[smokey7]

Im picking up what your putting down.

 

[jeremyc]

I have never used a tach. I learned to tune by ear after i did a muffler mod on my first saw- the infamous MS290 .
I have found that it is much easier to hear the 4 stroking with a muffler mod because the saw is so much louder its easy to hear the burble.
I have since tuned dozens of saws and trimmers without an issue.
Watch the videos that are linked and listen to how they sound and you should be able to pick it up. Bogging when snapping from idle is a low speed adjustment setting issue.

 

[aokpops]

Lean them out let them run ,always retune saws to the max . Done it for decades the four cycle burble sound I get rid of