Detent valve question

[TJ-Bill]

I bought a new ADJUSTABLE dent for the splitter. Now factory setting was 2750psi which is way to much so I adjusted the valve back and the pistons stops but the handle won't kick out and there's a strange noise from the valve. So I adjusted the valve to where it's crush a 2x4 on the return and still not kick out which seems like more pressure then is needed.
Is there a reason I can't get it to work at the 800 psi? I'd rather not bend my beam and crack a weld setting this thing to work.

Thanks

 

[homemade]

Try adjusting the valve very open so it won’t self return at all. Only do your adjusting when the oil is warm. And it might take a while to get it dialed in.

Are you talking about a detent only on the return stroke or both ways?

 

[TJ-Bill]

Try adjusting the valve very open so it won’t self return at all. Only do your adjusting when the oil is warm. And it might take a while to get it dialed in.

Are you talking about a detent only on the return stroke or both ways?

Just the return. I got it to where it works, but i'm still not happy with it. The gauge jumps to about 800-900psi for it to kick off, it does sound abit funny. I plan to use it tomorrow so I guess I'll have lots of time to dial it in when it warms up. Splitter has about a 24" stroke on it so I'm limiting to 18" using a piece of steel, it puts alot of pressure on the bottom on the push plate.

 

[homemade]

My detent return valve had some rust on it and was difficult to get set right when I first built the splitter. I believe the return pops off somewhere Aron’s 500 psi. I adjusted the detent to the point if barely holding the valve back, and the oil warmed up, I had to keep tightening it up till it would hold consistently.

Obviously when first starting the splitter it will need more pressure to kick out the detent, but it lowers as the day goes on.

 

[TJ-Bill]

So I've put about 2/3 cord through it. seems to be working ok. I had to increase the pressure because in the forward direction the splitter wouldn't split some tougher pieces. I didn't think that the detent setting had anything to do with forward splitting force?

 

[triptester]

The pressure relief setting has nothing to do with the detent setting. You didn't mention the brand of control valve but if it is a Prince style valve the adjustment range is 1000-2000 psi.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/ValvesLsRD25.pdf

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Splitter has about a 24" stroke on it so I'm limiting to 18" using a piece of steel, it puts alot of pressure on the bottom on the push plate.

I tried that a number of years ago, and as you said it put a lot of strain on the push plate. I used stroke limiting collars after that with great results, with one exception. The through bolt connecting the cylinder rod to the push plate would wear and eventually shear. I replaced the bolt with a cheap, soft grade bolt several times a year. There is a YouTube video of a guy with a Timberwolf (TW-2?) who used stroke reducing collars and it ruined his cylinder rod where it connected to the push plate, and he replaced the cylinder at great expense. Do not remember how the connection was different, or perhaps he used a grade 8 bolt instead of softer sacrificial ones. Obviously, it should not effect detent in any way that I can see, and was extremely satisfying to be even a bit more efficient with a shorter stroke return.
Edit: I sold this splitter for $500. after buying a TW-6. Sold the TW-6 two and a half years later and offered $600. to buy this one back with the bench. The guy would not sell it. He loves it and works well for what he needs. Go figure...

 

[homemade]

The pressure relief setting has nothing to do with the detent setting. You didn't mention the brand of control valve but if it is a Prince style valve the adjustment range is 1000-2000 psi.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/ValvesLsRD25.pdf

never thought to clairify the difference between the relief that regulates splitting force and return detent kick out. On my cross branded valve the spitting force relief is fixed at 2000psi. With my pressure gauge installed I've never seen it get close to 1500psi so I found no need to go higher, by replacing the fixed valve with an adjustable one.

Now the detent kick out is what I've been referencing all along. that one is the one that takes a while to dial in.

 

[kevin j]

The YouTube guy was on another board. He was told by the supplier that putting pressure on rod in return stroke via the reducing collars pulled his threads off. BS. Cylinders are designed for full force push and pull. His supplier was misinformed or dishonest or both.
His threads pulled out because either rod or rod eye had some defect. He should have gotten a warranty one free.

Stop collars are great and are used by thousands of farmers without issues.
However, they CAN damage the seals if tghe collars make mechanical contact with tyhe seal area when the foce in retract pushes them against the cylinder. Make sure there is clearance space there.

Jerry has it. The two adjustments are separate and should not be related.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I tried that a number of years ago, and as you said it put a lot of strain on the push plate. I used stroke limiting collars after that with great results, with one exception. The through bolt connecting the cylinder rod to the push plate would wear and eventually shear. I replaced the bolt with a cheap, soft grade bolt several times a year. There is a YouTube video of a guy with a Timberwolf (TW-2?) who used stroke reducing collars and it ruined his cylinder rod where it connected to the push plate, and he replaced the cylinder at great expense. Do not remember how the connection was different, or perhaps he used a grade 8 bolt instead of softer sacrificial ones. Obviously, it should not effect detent in any way that I can see, and was extremely satisfying to be even a bit more efficient with a shorter stroke return.
Edit: I sold this splitter for $500. after buying a TW-6. Sold the TW-6 two and a half years later and offered $600. to buy this one back with the bench. The guy would not sell it. He loves it and works well for what he needs. Go figure...
View attachment 665821

I've seen his video as well warning viewers not to use those collars. He had to replace the cylinder because his rod was threaded to the clevice and the threads were damaged/stripped where the crevice could not work.
I like the adjustable lever disconnect. There are a few splitters on YT that use this adjustable system and at least one video as a DIY adjustable stroke limiter.
(edited for ease of reading and content- I should not trust autofill/correct)

 

[TJ-Bill]

Now this is something I might to build this winter!.. Thanks VirginiaIron.. My push plate is welded on and seems to be holding up but I can see it failing over time. I definitely like this solution and I'll have to do some looking of YT..

Thanks

 

[TJ-Bill]

I'll snap a picture of my valve, I was using the adjustment as per the User manual.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Now this is something I might to build this winter!.. Thanks VirginiaIron.. My push plate is welded on and seems to be holding up but I can see it failing over time. I definitely like this solution and I'll have to do some looking of YT..

Thanks

I'm glad you like it. I'm going to make something similar too, but first I need to put my three dimentional chess-hat back on due to my valve platform.