Need tips for re-bending the end of starter recoil springs?

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Okie

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Anyone have a method for re-bending (re-forming) the end of chainsaw rope starter recoil springs?
I have all kinds of torches to heat the springs. I used a propane torch and got one red hot and got a formed end, but should I re-temper it by re- heating and dipping in oil or?

I have several Homelite chainsaw recoil springs with just the very end broken off. (and couple of the new rotary type that break that look like this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-HOMEL...156984?hash=item43fccdd638:g:McoAAOSwopRYgCTg

Here is another picture of one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RECOIL-STA...QoAAOSwtJZXUKWy:sc:USPSFirstClass!74346!US!-1
 
How many do you need? And for what saw? I thought once you heat them they loose there strength and springiness


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From my experience this has worked for me. I use a hand held propane torch the type used for soldering plumbing. I heat the end of the spring up trying to avoid the rest of the spring . Do not heat it until it gets red hot. About the time you think it is going to start turning red start the bending process. After the shape and contour is good very carefully temper the end of the spring several times. Get it thoroughly warm, but not close to red hot and dip in water or oil. Heat a little less and dip at least two times should last for awhile. Thanks
 
FWIW.....as a kid, I was a lawn mowing SOG. Made some good money at it. I even had two friends working for me at times.

Anyways, my mowers had recoil starters. The springs would break at times. I was too cheap to go buy a new one. I'd simply take the recoil starter apart, do some cutting (trimming) if necessary, and then re-bend the end with either a vise or vice-grips and some pliers.

I never heat treated anything. Your mileage may vary............:popcorn2:
 
From my experience this has worked for me. I use a hand held propane torch the type used for soldering plumbing. I heat the end of the spring up trying to avoid the rest of the spring . Do not heat it until it gets red hot. About the time you think it is going to start turning red start the bending process. After the shape and contour is good very carefully temper the end of the spring several times. Get it thoroughly warm, but not close to red hot and dip in water or oil. Heat a little less and dip at least two times should last for awhile. Thanks

I first tried bending the spring without any heat and they break like glass which I expected.

I next heated about 1 inch of the very end until red hot and and did the bend and the end at the curl and did a pull test and the springs little hook was too weak to hold any pull pressure and deformed easily.

I'll try the slight re tempering procedure you mention and dip in oil and test.
 
Just because it is posted does not mean it is correct.
Bill have you really ever re-bent a starter spring?
some on here don't know much about a saw don't give them bad info!

dmb: If you are asking huskybill about re-bending, he looks like in his picture of him holding that fish by the lip he could re-bend a spring in his teeth. and maybe even bend/twist the head off of a elephant.
Might be the best to not question what he says.;) or he might get to thinking about :buttkick:
 
Yes I have heated and bent the end of recoil springs in a pinch. Like on a weekend. To keep the saw running. Then I ordered two new recoil springs so I had one spare.
 
It is best to not put more effort into overcomplicating things than the effort you put into actually doing what is was you set out to do in the first place.

To start, my first choice on repairing a recoil spring is to replace it with a new one. Things aren't always so simple though.

I have re-bent many recoil springs on various small engines through the years. I never did heat or reheat treat them either. Now, some of those rebends worked and some didn't. They seemed to work more often on Honda more than say, Stihl or Kawasaki. The point I am really trying to make though is that rebending, though possible to be quite durable, is really a temporary fix to buy you some time until you can replace the spring. If the end broke, it is only a matter of time before it breaks in the middle somewhere and I have yet to find a field expedient fix for that.

And to reheat treat spring steel, you need to get it red hot and quench in oil. Then when it cools a little more, reheat carefully until it reaches a "straw" color (kind of a light gold) and then quench in oil again. If it works on double shotgun springs it will probably work (in a pinch) on recoil starter springs.
 
It is best to not put more effort into overcomplicating things than the effort you put into actually doing what is was you set out to do in the first place.

To start, my first choice on repairing a recoil spring is to replace it with a new one. Things aren't always so simple though.

I have re-bent many recoil springs on various small engines through the years. I never did heat or reheat treat them either. Now, some of those rebends worked and some didn't. They seemed to work more often on Honda more than say, Stihl or Kawasaki. The point I am really trying to make though is that rebending, though possible to be quite durable, is really a temporary fix to buy you some time until you can replace the spring. If the end broke, it is only a matter of time before it breaks in the middle somewhere and I have yet to find a field expedient fix for that.

And to reheat treat spring steel, you need to get it red hot and quench in oil. Then when it cools a little more, reheat carefully until it reaches a "straw" color (kind of a light gold) and then quench in oil again. If it works on double shotgun springs it will probably work (in a pinch) on recoil starter springs.

Well said, thanks.


I have a sack of these springs for Homelites and keep a new spare.
Some of these springs I have labeled are like new with very little use with just the very end of the spring at the winding dog broke off.

The springs that I have are mainly for these type of recoils for the Homelite EZ's.
I also keep a spare EZ recoil assembly so I can repair the broke one in spare time or winter project. (can buy a complete used recoil assembly for about price of a new spring nowdays)

Here is one type that is not user friendly to re-place and re-wind the spring. (and I keep a spare one of these handly)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-e...:wIkAAOSw-ldZZs-d:sc:USPSPriority!74346!US!-1
 
From my experience this has worked for me. I use a hand held propane torch the type used for soldering plumbing. I heat the end of the spring up trying to avoid the rest of the spring . Do not heat it until it gets red hot. About the time you think it is going to start turning red start the bending process. After the shape and contour is good very carefully temper the end of the spring several times. Get it thoroughly warm, but not close to red hot and dip in water or oil. Heat a little less and dip at least two times should last for awhile. Thanks
From my experience, go with the above.....don't get it red hot, don't heat rest of spring--bend to required shape, allow to cool. Retemper to not quite red hot (black) I then quench in used motor oil, and do this twice. Some seem to go better than others, don't know why.........do not rush it !
 
It is best to not put more effort into overcomplicating things than the effort you put into actually doing what is was you set out to do in the first place.

To start, my first choice on repairing a recoil spring is to replace it with a new one. Things aren't always so simple though.

I have re-bent many recoil springs on various small engines through the years. I never did heat or reheat treat them either. Now, some of those rebends worked and some didn't. They seemed to work more often on Honda more than say, Stihl or Kawasaki. The point I am really trying to make though is that rebending, though possible to be quite durable, is really a temporary fix to buy you some time until you can replace the spring. If the end broke, it is only a matter of time before it breaks in the middle somewhere and I have yet to find a field expedient fix for that.
This is true, metal springs wear from compression AND release. If the spring broke it will not matter what you do to the metal to try and fix it, it will most likely break again.

Magazine springs for firearms or springs for anything work the same way. They can be compressed in one position for 20 years in one position and not move or fully decompressed for the same time. It will still have the same lifetime as a brand new spring. However when a spring is compressed and uncompressed this is what fatigues it in which after time it will fail.
All I’m trying to say is that if the spring has broke, then the rest of the spring is at its failure point in which a repair will only lead to a temp fix
 
This is true, metal springs wear from compression AND release. If the spring broke it will not matter what you do to the metal to try and fix it, it will most likely break again.

Magazine springs for firearms or springs for anything work the same way. They can be compressed in one position for 20 years in one position and not move or fully decompressed for the same time. It will still have the same lifetime as a brand new spring. However when a spring is compressed and uncompressed this is what fatigues it in which after time it will fail.
All I’m trying to say is that if the spring has broke, then the rest of the spring is at its failure point in which a repair will only lead to a temp fix

Have tried fixing them before and it seems 90% of the time it ends up coming back not long after.

At best it's a temp fix IMO.
 
The hook at the end of the spring is a high stress point. Just because it breaks there doesn't mean the rest of the spring is weak. One of the secrets in reforming the spring is to get the shape of the hook just right so that it conforms to whatever it is hooked around and doesn't have to do any flexing at that point. I have done many of these and have had good results by leaving the reshaped end of the spring soft.
 
From my experience, go with the above.....don't get it red hot, don't heat rest of spring--bend to required shape, allow to cool. Retemper to not quite red hot (black) I then quench in used motor oil, and do this twice. Some seem to go better than others, don't know why.........do not rush it !

This method seems to be operating ok.

As i previously said I have a pile of these springs with just the little roll at the very end broke off so the OEM factory method is not great. I have a complete spare side plate for the EZ's already rigged and I got to where I just take the spare too the woods with me and a 5/16 nut driver.
Even the factory OEM can let go at any time and the spring is not user friendly to replace. Not just a plug and go thing on the EZ type homies.:(
 
If the springs are the original length, there is actually little stress placed on the hook at the end on most saws, the coils are in contact and take up most of the drag on the spring. It is a simple matter to heat the end (I go for red), reform the hook, and put it back together. I have repaired dozens this way including field repairs at a GTG. All you need is a propane torch...

P3130641.jpg

I have tempered a few by quenching them in oil, but I can't say that they were any better than the air cooled ones.

Mark
 
Quenching in oil makes them look better and they never rust. Also they seem to be more brittle and will rust if quenched in water. These are still too soft if allowed to just air cool.

Looks like someone is getting some McCulloch tips and training in the previous post pic. Them old heavy Mac's sure strain the back on gray headed guys. How do I know this. Looks like the guy with the red suspenders is already wearing a back brace trying to reduce the future pain of operating that saw.

You guys might want to snug up that chain little bit before going to the wood.;)
 
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