Wisconsin won't start. Anything left to try?

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uglydukwling

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I recently replaced the Wisconsin V-4 engine in a lift with a used unit. It ran when the seller demonstrated it. It ran after I installed it, and I used it for maybe a half-hour total. Then it sat for a month, and hasn't started since. It fires, but won't catch long enough to run.

It has fuel. I first replaced the mechanical pump with an electrical, then a gravity tank. No change. The float bowl fills, and gas doesn't drip from the carb. It fires on starting fluid, but no differently from the way it does on gas. When it was running, it ran fine on the gas that was in the tank, which was a year old, probably more. I filled the gravity tank with fresh gas. No change. One of my friends came back from an engine show, and someone there told him to use fresh premium gas. It doesn't make sense for a low compression engine like this, but neither does anything else about this situation, so I'll try it.

It has spark. With the plugs out, I get spark at all of them. The plugs looked new, but I replaced them anyway. No change. It has the Wico magneto, if that's a clue. I noticed that the plugs in both the original and replacement engines were gapped at .018, so I tried them that way as well as the .030 the manual specifies. No difference.

It has compression. The manual says that it's normal for these engines to lose compression if they've been stored for a long time. It recommended putting a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder. I did, and compression came up from 60 to 100 psi, but still no start. Even if it had a dead cylinder, this engine should run. The one I replaced started and ran (almost smoothly) with a hole through one piston.

The only thing left is timing. That's what I would suspect if the engine had been apart, or if it had a timing chain. But the timing must have been right the first time I used it, and timing gears can't jump like a chain can. The only way for a gear to jump is to strip teeth, and then the camshaft and magneto wouldn't turn at all. I guess I have to check timing, but the engine is a rather tight fit in it present installation, and I'm not sure I'll be able to see the timing marks without removing it.

I'm down to considering replacing the engine again. I have located a pair of V-4s, but they aren't running. The usual "they were running when we pulled them" story. The reason I bought this one was that it was running and I'd have had to take a chance on the others. One thing about the others is that they're both coil ignition, and I've had better luck diagnosing it than magneto ignition. I'm even considering a different engine, but this machine is set up for a Wisconsin. The bolt holes line up, etc. The bigger problem is the length of the engine. There isn't room for anything longer than the Wisconsin. That's why I didn't just drop in a 4-cylinder auto engine the first time around. Also, I need the stub shaft to mount a 4-groove pulley. If I use an automotive rather than industrial engine, I'll have to fabricate something. Can anyone think of anything that might fit?
 
Is the starter drive kicking out before the engine gets a good couple hits to stay running. A lot of times a bad starter drive will kick out after one cylinder fires.
 
Are you sure the float bowl is filling?
I've seen the needle valve stick in the seat more than a few times.
If it has spark and has compression, I'd be looking closely inside the carburetor.
 
The starter stays engaged and cranks as long as I dare.

The plugs come out a little sooty, but not wet. The carb is immaculate inside. I blew out all the passages with air. I doubt if there could be a blockage I missed. I forgot to mention that I tried mounting the carb off the original engine, since I knew it worked. No difference. Then I cleaned it. Still no difference. I haven't tried dribbling gas into the carb (difficult to do with an updraft carb, but I suppose I could use a squirt bottle) but I have tried spraying starting fluid into it while cranking. It fires, but no better than on gas. I'm pretty sure the float bowl is filling. When I take out the drain plug, I get plenty of gas out.
 
How long does it run? you might want to take the cap of the magneto and take the condenser out, rub it down a bit with some steel wool and reinstall it... and while your at it polish the points, rotor and cap terminals..... the rich fuel air mix might be to much for a weak ignition and it gets smothered by the overly rich mix.
 
I meant to send an update to this thread, but never got around to it. I found an old mechanic who had actually worked on these engines. As soon as I recited the symptoms, he said "impulse spring". It seems this engine has a spring called the impulse spring in the magneto. If this spring breaks, the magneto will still spark, but not at the time set according to the timing marks. Rather than dismantle the magneto and try to find a replacement spring, I fitted the distributor off the old engine. It worked perfectly. I hadn't tried it previously because I wasn't sure if the distributor and magneto were interchangeable. They are. Hope this helps someone else with the same problem.
 
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