Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
...or go for that rustic look - get a piece of a suitably sized limb and do a single bore cut through the end grain.
DONE.
DONE.
Homemade Chainsaw Chain Guard
- Thread starter lil171
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Now that sounds like a neat idea. The only thing is though, I would have to get a permit to get that piece! Unfortunately, I live in town, and also do not have a tree on my property to cut a limb off, shy of cutting down one of my 3 trees..... Here, we need to get a permit to cut wood on public land. But..... If it is nice outo this weekend, I may have a buddy that will let me cut a limb off one of his trees.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Firehose works well.
Well I have not found cheap ones here. So here is a trick with PVC tubing.
3 inch works for small bars.
You'll need a filler form inside the tubing. 1/4 plywood just a little longer than the bar. Cut the tubing, I use thin wall not scheduled 40, cut the tubing 3 inches longer than needed. At first the plywood may not go inside the round pipe but as its flattened it gets wider. Use a NON FLAME heat source to WARM the tubing to soften it. Wear leather gloves, eye protection and any safety gear you need. Start shaping the tube into an oval shape by pressing a board on top of the PVC with it laying on a flat surface. Eventually the plywood form will slip inside to keep it from closing to much. I use a hot air gun to heat and soften mine. Eventually you'll have a flat hard PVC tube the correct thickness for your bar. It may be to wide at this point. Cut one side off to narrow it down to the proper width but leave enough to fold over. You can carefully bend the cut pieces to overlap . Close the tip end the same way. Use cleaner and PVC glue to glue the seams. Then, cut a 2x3 inch hole in the form about midway of your bar. Use THAT hole to heat and press an indentation to tighten the boot (cover)) on the bar. At this point your Chainsaw bar cover should be a tad to long. Saw the bar tip edges split to over lap and glue. At the saw motor end saw the edges to open them. Now heat and shape wings that rest against the saw when the cover is snugly fitted. This boot can be fastened by bungee to the saw or made to fit a box. . Paint with plastic compatible spray paint and your done. . It's gonna take some practice but you'll get good at it. Good luck.
Or just wrap it all up with duct tape, and then unwrap the tape when you are ready to cut. Sounds lke a great generation X solution. Good luck, guys.
Well, thanks again for all teh ideas. I will definately be trying one or two out just for fun, and just to work together with my dad. I have since put him on the 'look out for ....' list. He is retired and likes to play around with simple little projects too. I also like to tell him it will be hard to find such and such item as it gets him more motivated for teh challenge! Anyways, it was somewhat decent, cool and windy today but I gave him a call up. He got his tablesaw out while I was on the way over. We cut up the interior hollow door skin to my measurements, then was to find a piece of wood for the spacer. Lucked out as he had a piece of lathe here that was right in at 5/16" wide. Cut it up into 3 pieces to fit my sides. It is now all glued up and clamped as seen in the picture. I unfortunately forgot to take a before photo, so you get to see it in progress. I think it should hold with a few clamps while drying...... Tomorrow, I will remove the clamps and sand teh edges and nose profile to what I like, kinda... I misjudged the nose and had it cut too short to make the nice radius I originally wanted, but it will still work. Once sanded and shaped, I had planned on painting it as well. Thanks for looking.
Gorilla glue is more than I ever used. All of mine hold together with Borden's carpenter's glue. You have twice as many clamps as I do. You are making good progress. The nose takes a little practice, but I have a feeling you will get there.
I started making these with sides made of 1/4" masonite before I moved up to hardwoods. That was made possible by a thickness planer. The only complaint I have with these guards is that they are heavier than plastic. So, when you carry the saw, you pick up a little extra load.
I have now received encouragement from OAKBLANK to make a few more. Two thumbs up!
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
The corrugated plastic house sale signs make a good scabbard
Many sawyers do not use chain guards (scabbards) at all. They just let the saws bounce against each other in the truck. So, when the saw shows up in my repair shop, I see chewed up handle bars beat up as if they were given to a pit bull for a toy. It can get so bad that the handlebar has to be wrapped in tape, and that looks awful.
I applaud anyone who builds one in their own shop because they don't like plastic or nothing at all. One day I made 10 of them using corrugated cardboard and tape. I cut them to length before giving them back to the owner who wanted his/her saw fixed. Most were really impressed.
I applaud anyone who builds one in their own shop because they don't like plastic or nothing at all. One day I made 10 of them using corrugated cardboard and tape. I cut them to length before giving them back to the owner who wanted his/her saw fixed. Most were really impressed.
Well, thanks all for your help and suggestions. Number 1 is now done. I was going to prime and paint it, but hey, it's meant to use, so I now decided to leave it alone, with the exception of the fact I will probably give it a coat or two of polyurethane for a little protection. However, once that is done, I will probably then decide t paint it anyways.... Here is a picture of it for your simple enjoyment!
I have made Knife sheaths with Duct Tape and Poster Paper. I carry a BB pistol on my bicycle. Holster, duct tape and Beer case cardboard. Keeps dogs off me and looks pretty decent. I TOTALLY covered both sides of the cardboard before making the holster. There IS an art. But, Yes, for Pete's sake do something. I carry my saws in cases as well. All my equipment is stored in plastic cases. Even the blower. Here Dirt Daubber wasp destroy things by filling voids with larva, spiders, and mud. Generators, drill motors, even Generators. Some things are bagged. Then Rats, yep, rats. Chew electric cords. Squirrels damage stuff too. Good day.
Tomorrow, I will look at something to keep it attached to the saw. Thinking of something like a bungee cord or spring similar to the bought ones. I will look it over then and decide. As well, there is a little hole, approximately 1/4" in the bar near the tip. I have tossed the idea of measuring it out and drilling a hole in the scabbard that matches it and using a simple bolt and wingnut.
Palm tress are REALY bad for magnesium.
The shop nearest me has Husqvarna scabbards for $3.95. So, I have them on almost all of my Stihl saws! (and, yes, I catch a lot of flack over it too!!!!) Used to not use them at all.....that is until I learned how to sharpen a chain correctly....now they are a safety necessity!!!
I paid nearly 20 bucks for what I thought was an Echo 28 inch bar cover from a dealer. Got home and it's to short. Not cheap around here. Wish they were.
diezelsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
Folded over cardboard and duct tape for me also, especially for my bars over 18", works great and about $.10 in tape.
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