vents, how hot is too hot?

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aaronmach1

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My livingroom is above my wood furnace and gas furnace. So being closest to the wood furnace where it connects into the hot air plenum, The livingroom vents are warmer than the rest of the rooms. My question is how hot can they get? The vent coming out of the floor by the couch, that is the first in line up from the wood furnace, gets so hot you cant put your hand on it for more than 2 seconds. Not sure how i would make it cooler, but should this be a concern? Any of you notice the same with your setup?
Ill throw a thermometer on it and get you guys a temp.
 
just checked the vent directly above my furnace. stove temp was around 350f (according to the rutland burn indicator), vent reached 138f then cooled to 106f when the blower kicked on. never really got that hot to the touch though. hope this helps.
 
ok thanks thats gives me an idea of somone elses temp. My temp at the vent in the livingroom right now is 120 f with blower running
 
Put a thermometer in it. They are cheap. I run mine around 135 degrees. If it gets to 156, I am getting a little concerned but my wife has had it over 170 before. This year I am trying a new strategy of not having the wife do anything with the stove. She has started doing the opposite of what I have told her and swearing that is what I said to do. One time I came home and she had it turned in to a roaring mess. It was over 1000 degrees on the burn chamber. All this from one of the smartest women that I have ever met. She even knows hot to change her own oil. SMH.
 
Probably should never see much more than 150* The closer you get to 200*, the more you are in the range of pyrolosis (sp?) If you look at a furnace limit switch, most have the burner safety cut off temp set to 200* max, cause you be officially in pyrolosis range by that point! Mine is set at 150* blower on, 110* blower off, pretty typical.
For anybody that is not familiar with pryrolosis, it is (for this application) the slow baking process of your houses wooden framework, that is next to the duct work (or flue pipe or chimney) until its combustible temp is lowered to a VERY low point. A point to where it could light up just from one lil ole overfire of the furnace. This process usually takes years, but can be a lot less.
EDIT: I probably go to far with this stuff, but hey jack, me n my fam are sleepin on top o' dis "indoor camp fire", safety first. That's why I sprayed all the wood framing in my furnace room with No Burn fire retardant...http://www.amazon.com/No-Burn-1102A...ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1390163598&sr=1-2 and installed a safety heat dump door http://www.yukon-eagle.com/LinkClick.aspx?link=200&tabid=201 on my supply plenum. Heat dump has a fusible link that melts at 212* to let the 12" x 12" door open, allows enough air circulation without the furnace blower so as to not overheat the firebox if some clown knocks off a power pole right after I chuck the ole girl full of wood for the night, allows me to sleep better, or more peace of mind when I go off to work with my fam still sleeping there...
 
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My propane furnace calls out a maximum output air temperature of 175F - I would guess most furnaces are similar and ductwork, fans, etc. are rated to such.

As a side note, I generally consider too hot to comfortably touch to be about 150F. If you can hold your hand on the vent then it's probably less than 150F. This is a ballpark figure - your skin may have a higher or lower tolerance for heat! :blob2:
 
I'd say Over 150 at the register is a reason to be concerned
 
200* would be my worry point. Gas furnace should be around 125*-165*. Try turning down your fan on stat.
 
Probably should never see much more than 150* The closer you get to 200*, the more you are in the range of pyrolosis (sp?) If you look at a furnace limit switch, most have the burner safety cut off temp set to 200* max, cause you be officially in pyrolosis range by that point! Mine is set at 150* blower on, 110* blower off, pretty typical.
For anybody that is not familiar with pryrolosis, it is (for this application) the slow baking process of your houses wooden framework, that is next to the duct work (or flue pipe or chimney) until its combustible temp is lowered to a VERY low point. A point to where it could light up just from one lil ole overfire of the furnace. This process usually takes years, but can be a lot less.
EDIT: I probably go to far with this stuff, but hey jack, me n my fam are sleepin on top o' dis "indoor camp fire", safety first. That's why I sprayed all the wood framing in my furnace room with No Burn fire retardant...http://www.amazon.com/No-Burn-1102A...ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1390163598&sr=1-2 and installed a safety heat dump door http://www.yukon-eagle.com/LinkClick.aspx?link=200&tabid=201 on my supply plenum. Heat dump has a fusible link that melts at 212* to let the 12" x 12" door open, allows enough air circulation without the furnace blower so as to not overheat the firebox if some clown knocks off a power pole right after I chuck the ole girl full of wood for the night, allows me to sleep better, or more peace of mind when I go off to work with my fam still sleeping there...
im not understanding the heat dump you linked to. How does it hook up?
 
It mounts into a traditional supply plenum. It would take some doin to make it work with your setup. I guess you'd have a sheet metal shop build a plenum for you...
 
ok no wonder i couldnt figure it out thanks. highest temp ive seen today on the vent in livingroom is 138f. but its -10 outside!
 
Plenum and water preheat tank temps. 002.jpg Left temp. is the plenum in degrees F. Right is the domestic water preheat tank, 60 gallons, that is heated by a coil in the plenum and then goes into the gas fired water heater.
Floor grate temps are very close to the plenum temp.
Forced air fan is on at 160 F and off at 125 F
KERA Differential Thermostat is used only to see the temps.
Use TK-SC6 System Controllers to control domestic water heating and solar water heating.
 
Timberjack, I have a very similar set up, only I monitor plenum and flue temps. Mine is a wireless remote BBQ monitor. I have alarms set for high temps on both. Glad to see I'm not the only techno geeked out wood burner...;)
 
Timberjack, I have a very similar set up, only I monitor plenum and flue temps. Mine is a wireless remote BBQ monitor. I have alarms set for high temps on both. Glad to see I'm not the only techno geeked out wood burner...;)
I am looking for either a probe thermometer with an alarm and wireless ability to monitor remotely. Fourteen years of burning in a house of five adults, I am still the only one paying attention to the stove. They just want heat! What are you using and do you have any recommendations.

FYI, that POS Ashley I bought last year over fires constantly, very poor design. I am stuck with it for a few years until I can just pony up for a well engineered one.
 
What are you using and do you have any recommendations.
I'm using the Maverick ET732 BBQ dual probe thermometer...wireless, batteries last more than a full heating season running 24/7 too. You can set low and high alarms on both probes...I'm pretty happy with it for the $50 I spent on it!
I monitor the flue temps and the plenum/duct temps on the wood furnace...
 
I'm using the Maverick ET732 BBQ dual probe thermometer...wireless, batteries last more than a full heating season running 24/7 too. You can set low and high alarms on both probes...I'm pretty happy with it for the $50 I spent on it!
I monitor the flue temps and the plenum/duct temps on the wood furnace...
I am on it! How do you attach or mate probe to monitored surface?
 
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