Ms 250 Experience please

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AmateurSawer

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Feb 2, 2015
Messages
200
Reaction score
192
Location
Western Va Mountains
I am currently thinking of a backup saw for my use on he farm.I have a 362 with a 20" bar for the bigger stuff an old 026 which seems to be on the way out.Many parts to replace and not much saw mechanical experience.
I have been debating on a new 261 but see an MS 250 for sale for less half half the cost.I know it's not a pro grade saw but the power is supposed only a little less than the 025 ( 3.2 vs3.5) and about the same weight.
My main use would be clearing fence rows and field border limbs,Cutting small limbs and bucking trees 12-14 inches and less.Anything larger and the 362 comes out.basically just a saw to carry on the tractor or pickup as a grab saw wih saw saw diameter firewood work thrown in.
I also thought about a Husqvarna 545 bu given the starting problems I had with a previous 359,I am a little concerned when reading reviews.The 359 ran and cut great.Starting was the issue.
FWIW,I have dealers for both he same distance from me. 3 Stihl.1 Husqvarna and one who sells both.The Echo dealers don't move much as far as I know and they seem heavy for size.One Jonsered dealer but with the changes,I don't know what's happening there.
Would an Ms 241 be an option?
 
I guess it comes down to cost and what you like. The MS241 is definitely an option. I have the much older version of it. The 024, and I like that saw a lot. It is really light and nimble. Since you have the MS362 for heavier stuff I'm sure you could save some coin by getting the MS250. I have never used that saw myself but it would probably last a long time for the type of work you described. There is nothing like a pro saw but sometimes it is not worth paying for it. A good used saw could be the best option. I would prefer the MS241 over the MS261 since you already have the MS362.
 
Is the Stihl bottom crankcase metal or plastic?

I believe, but correct me if I am wrong, that the Rancher bottom crankcase is plastic.

Not an endearing feature in my mind.

I’d be looking at some Echos and Makitas too..

The Makita ea4300 (Dolmar 421) is a very nice saw. Much,much better build quality than your choices mentioned. I use my little Dolmar 420 at least 2 or 3 times a week for something or other on the farm. I guarantee you will like that saw. 43cc, 2.9 hp. With enough torque and revs to make it fun. Look at one. You would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t.

It probably costs less than the ms250 or Rancher.

Just to complicate matters. Ha!
 
There are also a lot of 028 Supers out there that run well. Consider that option for about $200. I'd rather see you buy one of them rather than my brand new Stihl MS251C. I am sure others in this forum will now unload on me in grand style, but I'm not sure. The majority will likely nod their heads. New residential vs. an older pro for less money? I'll take the older pro.
 
The 251 is the 250's fatter slower brother. Stihl discontinued the 250 and kept the 251. Maybe the 250 was too close to the pro saws in power and weight specs.

I have a 20 year old 025 that's still going strong. The 025 is the same as the 250 but with screw caps. It's not as nice to run as a MS241CM but it's half the price.

Unless the 026 is really messed up it'd be cheaper to refurbish it than to buy a new saw, even a MS250.
 
Although not a pro saw I have been very impressed with the durability of the MS250 saws. Great power, light weight, and a whole lot cheaper to replace after driving over it with the tractor The 250 is my favorite loaner saw as everyone seems to like them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
My closest Stihl dealer has both 250's and 251's on the shelf. For what the OP is going to do with this choice, the 250 is fine. Lots of plastic, but if that is no issue it's a great little and light saw. My biggest beefs with the 250 / 025 are the plastic pin on the bottom edge of the clutch cover that seems to double as a chain stop and the issues some have with starting the saw cold. But starting is really very simple: full choke, 2 pulls only, switch to half choke and start from there. They seem to not always pop on full choke resulting in a lot of flooded carbs...
 
They definitely still sell 250s and the 250 crankcase is all metal. They're one of the easier saws to work on - from a mechanics perspective I can tell you that. The clamshell might not be as robust as split case but it's really easy to replace seals bearings and anything else.
I'm just not crazy about the 250-C that have the ez chain tensioner.
 
Is the Stihl bottom crankcase metal or plastic?

I believe, but correct me if I am wrong, that the Rancher bottom crankcase is plastic.

Not an endearing feature in my mind.

I’d be looking at some Echos and Makitas too..

The Makita ea4300 (Dolmar 421) is a very nice saw. Much,much better build quality than your choices mentioned. I use my little Dolmar 420 at least 2 or 3 times a week for something or other on the farm. I guarantee you will like that saw. 43cc, 2.9 hp. With enough torque and revs to make it fun. Look at one. You would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t.

It probably costs less than the ms250 or Rancher.

Just to complicate matters. Ha!

Both plastic saws I believe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, but doesn’t the Stihl at least have a full metal little crankcase bolted into a plastic chassis?

Oops, already answered above.

The husqy 450 and stihl 250 are both clamshell engines mounted in a plastic chassis.

Ms 250 Clamshell engine. The husqy 450 is similar at the base.
61YMDsj7NBL._SX466_.jpg
 
Oh, I thought the Husky top was bolted into a plastic bottom. But I really haven’t a clue on that.

That doesn’t look like too bad of a design to me, really. It’s probably quite durable. I had visions of a ms250 dancing in my head a while ago. A used one. You know, cheap. Might be a decent saw. The speced power looks decent enough.

That brass barb is the impulse barb, yes? Gotta be. It looks tidy, but not a great location
 
As already mentioned, that 026 would be a pretty easy rebuild, especially easy if the crank is still good.

There’s not very many parts in a chainsaw...

Ps, starting issues on a sound saw are lots of times just a low screw adjustment away from gone.

I wouldn’t base an opinion of Husky on that one 359, which is a great saw, btw.
 
Back
Top