saw mechanics tools

[cedarhollow]

in making transition from outboard repair to saw repair i'm learning how much i don't know.
was wondering what specialized holding jigs and fixtures, tools saw mechanics find useful or necessary.

 

[Del_]

in making transition from outboard repair to saw repair i'm learning how much i don't know.
was wondering what specialized holding jigs and fixtures, tools saw mechanics find useful or necessary.

Moving from outboard to saw repair? Sounds like a backward step. It may be hard to believe but be prepared for a giant step backwards in clientele intelligence. At least you will not need a tank to run them.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Moving from outboard to saw repair? Sounds like a backward step. It may be hard to believe but be prepared for a giant step backwards in clientele intelligence. At least you will not need a tank to run them.

You may not think that if you have been a marine mechanic in this lifetime.....LOL

 

[NCPT]

It may be hard to believe but be prepared for a giant step backwards in clientele intelligence.

That's funny.

 

[homemade]

I think it has been discussed on here before, but tools I find I can get the job done with out but it sucks big time.
1) mityvac get the one that can do pressure and vacuum, I think it’s the 8500

2) piston ring compressor

I don’t think a crank case splitter is on the need list unless your doing multiple case splits a year. I can get away with a heat gun and a rubber mallet.

 

[Okie]

I also worked on outboard motors first also. I quit because too many specialized tools and testers were needed year to year. (and I started fishing instead)

Chainsaw analyzers (tools) that are a good thing to have.

A mityvac that can do both pressure and vacuum.

A know to be accurate compression tester. (very few compression gauges will read a small cc engine chain sAws compression accurately) You can eventually build yourself a second one to use to confirm that when you see a low readings, the tester is not at fault.

Ultrasonic cleaner, unless you just want to replace carbs instead of repair. (and some replacement OEM carbs can be had more reasonable than a attempted repair)

Ability to quickly determine if it's even feasible to ATTEMPT a repair on some saws. (some (several) saws are actually consumable and disposable now days)

Good luck to ya.

 

[Colt Marlington]

I think I could rig up something for a ring compressor.

I need some new files and special carb adjustment tools...and that’s about it. For now.

 

[deaves61]

You may not think that if you have been a marine mechanic in this lifetime.....LOL

+ 1.

 

[Bret4207]

You're going to need a set of the screwdrivers for the different carb needle screws. You can get them in a kit from a bunch of places. And you'll need a dry wall (sheet rock) screw to pull limiter caps. Walbro and Zama make a metal gizzie to set the height of the metering lever that are handy. Walbros is shaped like a "W" and Zamas like a "Z". Again, available a lot of places. Ebay is a good bet- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Sma...h=item33f914fc4f:g:LIMAAOSwWSlb47IR:rk:1:pf:0

A ring compressor is real handy, a piston stop is too although a hunka rope works fine. Most clutches can be pulled without a special tool, same for most flywheels, but if you get into a lot of it they make the job easier. A good set of long shank hex and torx wrenches, metric and fractional, some left hand drill bit and a set of taps and dies metric/standard and a "screw checker" to make sure you're doing the right size. Mity-Vac as mentioned above. You're also going to need a place you can test run the saws. If you are out int he sticks you walk out the back door and hit the firewood pile. If you are in town, some guys build special rooms with noise deadening insulation. Others just annoy the neighbors. Either way you have to be able to test run the saws. Some guys tune by ear, others use tachs. A tach can't tell the difference between 4 stroking in cut and a lean saw. IMO just because you can set it to run 14,500 rpm wide open with no load doesn't mean that's where you want to leave it. Again, need to have some wood to run it in.

Oh, and a parts washer. I worked on filthy saws for about a week, disassembling a couple dozen a day, before I figured out it was a lot easier to stick it in the parts washer and at least give the outside a quick scrub and then blow the rest off with air than it was to sit there digging dirt and sawdust out of every crevice, hole and crack on a saw that hadn't been cleaned at all since it was new. I got int he habit of giving them all a good cleaning and I had many customers refuse to believe I was giving them back the right saw at first. Most kind of got a kick out having a clean saw and I think it helped offset the cost of repairs that were often kinda painful.

 

[Sam R]

You also need some way to block intake/exhaust for p/v testing. If you fabricate your own stuff they're pretty easy to make or else you can find them online. in my experience every single chainsaw on the planet has carb poles the same distance apart but exhaust ports vary in size and bolt placement.

 

[Gord404]

Small pack of the plastic ring compressors are about $10 - worth it and I did buy a case splitter for about $100 - used to do it the mallot way but I split enough cases to replace bearings etc. it sure cuts down the time, and a couple of different size crankshaft-flywheel knockers, ( made my own ) and of course the mityvac, you will find that other tools will come into play but you might already have them, - not a lot of money to put out for basic tools but IMO it really make the work a lot easier if you plan on doing enough saws.

 

[cus_deluxe]

If u dont already have good quality t-handle wrenches then you need to get some. You can get them on ebay, made by wiha, excellent quality. 10 piece set does 99% of stuff on modern saws in terms of fasteners. Mityvac 8500 is a must for testing as well. Better have a dremel/flexshaft for cleaning ports/transfer out of cylinders.

 

[cedarhollow]

thanks for all the great advice, fortunately i have about every common tool god created.
plastic ring compressor, thats one for the list,
walbro and zama height gauges,
piston stop? outboard piston stop is an adjustable threaded rod that goes through a bolt that has same threads as spark plug
case splitter, if i move my milling machine this trip i'm sure I can make one.

lots of great suggestions, thanks

 

[CR888]

Check out Wiha's 'chainsaw kit' that has about a dozen of the main T-handles that you'll need in hex, torx, 8/10mm nut driver etc. But if your serious, buy the complete sets with every size. For chainsaws & small engine work Wiha are definitely one of my favourites.

 

[Okie]

Bible

Place your hand on it and ask for help BEFORE and during starting to analyze some makes of saws.

Several of the chainsaw guys that give repair info in this forum can walk on water but little additional help is always a good thing.

 

[Sam R]

piston stop? outboard piston stop is an adjustable threaded rod that goes through a bolt that has same threads as spark plug

Make sure you have something like this for spark plug ports that don't go in 90 degrees to the piston. if you're putting in the "threaded rod" style on a piston that's going in at say 45 degrees the pressure you put on it from removing f/w or clutch can punch a hole right into the top of your piston.
Alternatively you can use the rope-through-the-spark-plug-and-exhaust-port method, but that can also deform your piston crown.

 

[homemade]

The plastic piston ring compressor kit comes with two piston stops.

 

[Ax-man]

You probably have one but a small adjustable mag lit flashlight is one of the tools I can't do without . Great for finding air leaks around cylinder gaskets , pulse lines , sometimes intake boots and decomp valves. Great little tool to look about anywhere on a saw where your eyes really can't see what is going on because of all the crud saws seem to attract. Beats taking things apart . Just don't forget to turn the darn thing off when your done with it. LOL.

 

[Sam R]

You probably have one but a small adjustable mag lit flashlight is one of the tools I can't do without . Great for finding air leaks around cylinder gaskets , pulse lines , sometimes intake boots and decomp valves. Great little tool to look about anywhere on a saw where your eyes really can't see what is going on because of all the crud saws seem to attract. Beats taking things apart . Just don't forget to turn the darn thing off when your done with it. LOL.

How did I neglect to mention this! Yes, I use a powerful penlight that goes in my shirt pocket (also recently got a head lamp we'll see how that works) it is positively indispensable!

 

[Ax-man]

Seeing how I have been in my little chainsaw shop mostly doing chainsaw carbs for the better part of this week due to cold temp and some snow. I have to add another tool to the list that I use quite often when doing these carbs. That tool is an ice pick. I mainly use the ice pick to set that little spring on the metering side of the carb into that little recess so it sits up straight before putting in the inlet needle and metering lever with the pivot rod. I just slide the spring up and onto the ice pick and then set into place . It beats using small pliers or big fingers plus I don't have too worry about it landing somewhere I don't want it to go . I also use the pick to move the metering lever rod to get it into place before putting in that set screw for the rod if I don't get it quite right.

An ice pick has other uses and I use it quite often when working on saws.

Another handy tool to have around is a magnifying glass .