70 ton wood splitter

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Cool. I'm about 1/2 way done my build. Shooting for a 50 ton fairly fast splitter. It's on a w67 beam (1" flanges) using a 7" ram with 5" rod for real fast retract. 40 gpm flow valve with a 40 gpm pump
 
milkie62 said:
What are you using for an engine on that ?
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Iv found a 3 cylinder 60 hp air cooled industrial Hatz engine, its got a permco p197 pump on the back of it, iv been told it can pump 137 lpm which is 36 gallons per minute in trump terms... - im getting help with the hydraulic side as in know very little about hydraulics and calculations ...
 
I used a 5” bore x 24” stroke cylinder on my last log splitter I built. What refused to split she cut through it. I used a 10” H beam. I’d like to build another one.
 
If it's a Permco 197, that's a fairly small pump series, I believe the largest pump section for it is around 15gpm.

Even a 40gpm pump, 60hp is way overkill.

Something to consider, a 5" rod means the retract stroke will be high flow. On 40gpm extend, It'd be about 85gpm.
 
The permco 197 series pump on the back of the Hatz engine is a multiple unit. Going by permco spex thats 72 lpm per port = 144 lpm or 38 gallons per minute, that's based on a 46 hp engine at 2400 rpm, yes 60 hp will be plenty of power but we can run it at lower revs, & up the revs if we need to. Better to have your engine on low revs ticking along than your engine revving high all day. This engine is for 2 rams huskey with 4" rod its not the engine for smelly pirates splitter
 
TONYRB said:
The permco 197 series pump on the back of the Hatz engine is a multiple unit. Going by permco spex thats 72 lpm per port = 144 lpm or 38 gallons per minute, that's based on a 46 hp engine at 2400 rpm, yes 60 hp will be plenty of power but we can run it at lower revs, & up the revs if we need to. Better to have your engine on low revs ticking along than your engine revving high all day. This engine is for 2 rams huskey with 4" rod its not the engine for smelly pirates splitter
Click to expand...

The pump won't make as much flow at lower revs.
Better to have the engine running at the governed speed actually.
 
milkie62 said:
What are you using for an engine on that ?
Click to expand...
One of my other projects is a 52 Dodge flatbed. Its got a running 252 flat head six in it that is coming out for an 8v53 upgrade. I love the little six so its getting used for something, so this is it. Thinking of the fuel usage of a vtwin 23 hp Kohler i figured an old six cylinder farm workhorse running at 1k rpm wouldnt be far off. My only issue is i cant find a Dyno sheet on the engine, I know it makes 120 hp at 3200. Im guessing it will pull over 55 hp at 1k but its a guess. If it cant tow the line I have a 2 to 1 marine gear box I will adapt to run the engine at 2K rpm which will surely be enough power and then some. FYI my pump is a 40 gpm PTO style pump with a 2750 psi max output.
 
The other thought is if i dont like the PTO pump setup (even with such a strong motor) ill go tandem gear pumps. One small and one very large with and unloader valve in the mix so it will work like a 2 stage pump. If i go this direction the splitter will be way stronger, which is why im over building it. And of course if this happens ill change motors and run something much smaller like maybe a compact tractor diesel.
 
muddstopper said:
not sure what picture you need to see. Ill post a few and maybe have what you want.View attachment 680782 View attachment 680783 View attachment 680784 View attachment 680785 I thought I had some pic's of the wedge end, but guess I dont. I havent got back to working on it since these pic's where taken. Anyways, the wedge is made out of 3/4 t1 plate. the slide box is made out of a forklift hoist. It is 1/2in thick channel. I made the wedge just deep enough to slde inside the channel. Off the top of my head, I forget how wide the blade material is, 8inches I believe, each layer of wedges are set back 3 inches from the one in front so that the wood isnt striking all the wedges at one time. The slide box is setting on top of 1in thick plate that is welded to the bottom of the Hbeam. It will need additional braceing at the top to prevent the cyl from just pushing it off the beam. I figured on adding the additional braceing as I build the rest of the processor. I dont know if you can tell from the pic's, but my hbeam is capped and the sides plated with more 1/2in plate. The sides metal is actually welded in from flange to flange to form a box instead of just welded to the web of the beam. At the cyl mount base, I also welded in some gussets on each side to help hold the cyl mounts. Now that gardening is over with for the year, I might get a chance to start back on my build. I have most of what I need to finish it, just havent had the time or any real need to get it finished.
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Wow that's substantial. I'll ask you the same question, is there a way to balance the load between the two cylinders or does the push plate have to deal with it? I thought about a twin cylinder setup but passed up on it because of the above. Smaller diameter cylinders are so much easier to deal with by far.
 
VirginiaIron said:
That is on my short list of equipment to purchase.
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I bought one 6 or 7 years ago, used it a few times, it **** the bed, got a warranty replacement, never bothered to even wire the plug on it. Been sitting in a corner for a couple years.

I prefer using the metal cutting skill saw or a whizz wheel and grinder. Or torch.
 
Agreed. Even with the thick steel I'm using on this build I still prefer a cutting wheel rather then a torch or plasma cutter. I just like those clean edges. I actually have a 9"x18" Johnson horizontal bandsaw that I haven't used in years. I had it in a shop and it's a 480 Volt machine, but the motor swap is easy. Definitely a more practical way to cut thick steel.
 
ChoppyChoppy said:
I bought one 6 or 7 years ago, used it a few times, it **** the bed, got a warranty replacement, never bothered to even wire the plug on it. Been sitting in a corner for a couple years.

I prefer using the metal cutting skill saw or a whizz wheel and grinder. Or
Click to expand...
SmellyPirateHooker said:
Agreed. Even with the thick steel I'm using on this build I still prefer a cutting wheel rather then a torch or plasma cutter. I just like those clean edges. I actually have a 9"x18" Johnson horizontal bandsaw that I haven't used in years. I had it in a shop and it's a 480 Volt machine, but the motor swap is easy. Definitely a more practical way to cut thick steel.
Click to expand...
SmellyPirateHooker said:
Agreed. Even with the thick steel I'm using on this build I still prefer a cutting wheel rather then a torch or plasma cutter. I just like those clean edges. I actually have a 9"x18" Johnson horizontal bandsaw that I haven't used in years. I had it in a shop and it's a 480 Volt machine, but the motor swap is easy. Definitely a more practical way to cut thick steel.
Click to expand...
Yea a band saw would be awesome
 
16 way wood splitter.JPG been a busy few weeks few other projects complete and out of the shed... hopefully ill have a bit time to get this up and running... all tacked together, will zap it up with a 400a flux core mig with co2 gas, my welders getting a bit small for 20mm boron steel
 

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