wood stove question

[STLfirewood]

I just bought a King wood stove from a northern tool. There was already a flue in the basement. Tonight when I uncovered the flue I saw that it was an 8” clay pipe inlet. The wood stove comes with a hook up for a 6” pipe. Can I step this up to an 8” pipe? Also any recommendations on a zero clearance thimble to go through the wall.

Thanks Scott

 

[moresnow]

Better than a fair chance your stove will perform poorly without the correctly sized vent. Guessing your chimney is a masonry chimney? Is it lined with terracotta/clay tile? Any chance you have inspected it or had it inspected for cracks/damage etc.? Most setups work best by installing a stainless insulated liner inside the masonry chimney (especially if located on a exterior wall). May even be required if you don't have clearance to combustibles around the masonry chimney. I am repeating info I learned over the years. Some of it the hard way in my own home. My centrally located masonry chimney was unlined and had combustible framing touching/attached to it. Big no no. Mine also had a hidden crock that had only been sheet rocked over! Soooo. Just sayin. Things to consider if they have not yet. If these items have been considered I will politely shut the h_ll up

 

[Mustang71]

So I dont see y you can't go from the 6 inch pipe to the 8 inch tile but what's the thimble for? Maybe post a pic. The 8 inch will draft better than a 6 inch tile so no issues there. Assuming its clay and in good shape of course.

 

[Beetlejuice]

So I dont see y you can't go from the 6 inch pipe to the 8 inch tile but what's the thimble for? Maybe post a pic. The 8 inch will draft better than a 6 inch tile so no issues there. Assuming its clay and in good shape of course.

Get a 8"-6" 18 gauge reducer, check the chimney out, put a chimney cap up top with a spark arrestor and fire it up. I know it's tough on the budget to cut those heating bills by 90%.. But this, after time, gets easier to take

 

[STLfirewood]

Thanks for all the input. My clay is in great shape. Hopefully I can source the parts this weekend and get it going. I’ll save a little but there really isn’t to much to save. I’m heating almost 2900sqft above grade. I have natural gas and my bill doesn’t usually go above $200. That includes the hot water and the dryer. The basement is always cold so I’m hoping to keep that area nice and warm. I’m sure it will knock some off but not expecting a ton.

Thanks Scott

 

[moresnow]

Post a link to your stove if you have one and get time.

 

[Mustang71]

It may not help with the heating bill but the floor will be warm which is real nice. I have never been a fan of the stove in the basement to heat the house but a lot of people do. But I do know with my wood furnace the basement is warm and so is the floor as well as the whole house but you dont get all that with the regular furnace.

 

[STLfirewood]

Post a link to your stove if you have one and get time.

I got it for $499 and They gave me a $50 gift card.


https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200665055_200665055

 

[Beetlejuice]

I got it for $499 and They gave me a $50 gift card.


https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200665055_200665055

This is one I have going now

 

[bbxlr8]

You may be pleasantly surprised at what it can do!

I have a medium size Osburn in the basement (partially finished) w/ about same sf size in 2 stories. It cut my oil down to less than 100g (oil) even in polar vortex winters here in eastern PA. Key thing for me was that basement steps are central as are the upstairs ones so warmth has a good path to rise. I have been here and burning 8y and has been consistent and esp great during these crazy storms and extended power outages. I use small fans to mix & move when really cold though.

BTW - I am originally from St. Louis - go Cards

 

[Mustang71]

There was a stove in my basement when I moved in. It was a small lopi and my steps are at one end of my 1700sqft ranch so it didn't heat real well. I wish I could watch a stove heat I love that secondary burn.

 

[spyder62]

I’d run 6” pipe from the heater to the thimble and use a 8x6 reduced as mentioned above. Draft regulator also. How many inches from the top of the smoke pipe to the floor joist or any thing combustible.

 

[MountainHigh]

The chimney is your motor - some wood stoves are more forgiving on an oversize flue than others. Definitely go 6" pipe into your thimble with the necessary step up to 8".

If the chimney is on an outside wall, that will also reduce it's ability to suck well (it will run cooler), at least until it gets really warmed up,

Only way to find out how well it works, is first inspect (as you've done) then if all is well (no cracks or fire hazards), crank it up and see.

If it doesn't suck well (puffs back smoke at re-loading or struggles to burn), or it overdrafts (can't control the fire / burns too hot), that's when I'd look at dropping down a 6" liner.

Best of luck!

 

[Marine5068]

I just bought a King wood stove from a northern tool. There was already a flue in the basement. Tonight when I uncovered the flue I saw that it was an 8” clay pipe inlet. The wood stove comes with a hook up for a 6” pipe. Can I step this up to an 8” pipe? Also any recommendations on a zero clearance thimble to go through the wall.

Thanks Scott

Inspect the masonry flue first, but it will definitely work with an adapter. Then buy a thimble for that 8" pipe if you're doing it that way and hooking up to a new stainless chimney through the wall. Just make sure you buy the right size thimble for the wall width(ie: 6" studs etc)
I have my 6" stove exit pipe hooked up to an 8" stainless Selkirk chimney and used the 6" to 8" adapter and it works amazing.
I also installed a cast iron flue damper in the 8" black stove pipe section above the adapter to better control the drafting when I need more or less.
My chimney goes straight up through the roof from the basement.

 

[STLfirewood]

Okay here are some more questions about what I’m dealing with. I went to Menards yesterday to get the parts for the piping install. I got a 12” double wall piece of pipe for going through the wall. I got an adapter for the double wall piece to take it to the black pipe. I also got a thimble. So reading online says you need 6” of clearance from double wall pipe to combustibles. That makes the hole I need to cut bigger than my thimble. So maybe I can just get a bigger thimble. The piece that goes into my glue it just the thin black pipe. Online it says I need 18” of clearance for single wall. This is Very small area right at the flue. Is that still needed? Do they mAke a wrap I can use around it? I’ll try and post some pictures of what I have.

Thanks Scott

 

[STLfirewood]

 

[Mustang71]

I would make sure you have all the clearances to combustables. If it were me I'd get rid of the wood around the stove all together and put some concrete board in or something non combustible.

 

[STLfirewood]

That’s my thought also. The wife said let’s just tear the wood down and do something different. I’m just not wanting that big of a project right now. Guess it can just be bare for this winter.

Scott

 

[NSMaple1]

That's kind of a shaky looking setup there, I think. I don't really think that piece of insulated stainless is doing much for you? I would want clearance from that little piece of black stuff right at the wall. Yes it's not very long, but it's also where all your combustibles are. I think I would have first stripped everything off the concrete until I have necessary combustible clearance, then simply come out the wall with an 8"-6" adaptor, then 6" to the stove. All stove pipe. You can use double wall stove pipe to reduce clearances, but I don't know if you can get it that you could come out of the wall with.

Does the chimney have a cleanout?

EDIT: Also need to make sure you have stove to wall clearance at the back of that. And is that sitting on carpet?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Thanks for all the input. My clay is in great shape. Hopefully I can source the parts this weekend and get it going. I’ll save a little but there really isn’t to much to save. I’m heating almost 2900sqft above grade. I have natural gas and my bill doesn’t usually go above $200. That includes the hot water and the dryer. The basement is always cold so I’m hoping to keep that area nice and warm. I’m sure it will knock some off but not expecting a ton.

Thanks Scott

Ouch!

I heat about 2200 sq ft, gas everything, my bill is usually $35-40.
Garage is heated with gas, house with wood, gas backup.