Should a 372xp be able to bog and wet 12-20 inch Pine?

[jchipps]

Since you’re not yet adept at tuning by ‘ear’ you probably should just get yourself a tach, set the saw at the factory recommended RPMs and then try it out in some wood and see what ya got.
Until you know you’re tuned correctly, you’re just spinning your wheels.

 

[blsnelling]

Since you’re not yet adept at tuning by ‘ear’ you probably should just get yourself a tach, set the saw at the factory recommended RPMs and then try it out in some wood and see what ya got.
Until you know you’re tuned correctly, you’re just spinning your wheels.

That's doesn't work well with a rev limited saw. Last video he posted the saw was tuned perfectly.

 

[jchipps]

That's doesn't work well with a rev limited saw. Last video he posted the saw was tuned perfectly.

I beg to differ with you on that point.

If you set the RPM’s at the factory reccomended setting, maybe even a few hundred RPMs lower, you’re gonna be somewhat in the ballpark and safe.
However, if you’re not adept at tuning by ear, such as the op stated, and he mistakes the rev limit sound as 4 stroking sound, his saw is set for a short life span.
Too lean and continuously running against the limiter.

 

[concretegrazer]

Used to small screwdrivers and pushed in the limiter caps and readjusted the carburetor to where it was more adjustable on the rich side from a base setting standpoint but now that I know how to manipulate the carburetor it shouldn't be too hard

If you remove the needles you can grind the limiting ledges off the collars and reassemble.

 

[August76]

What did you say your elevation is there?

5200 in my backyard but where I go cut is even higher

 

[August76]

1200 grit? You need to get some 300-400 grit in there. Try a green scotchbrite pad.

Do not use Caber F-Cast rings. They are much stiffer and harder to break in. You'll also see more power loss due to excess ring pressure/friction. If you use Caber rings make sure they are the original, non-FCast version. Honestly, I'd just use the original rings.

BTW, your tune sounds fine in the last video you posted. It's plenty rich. I can hear it 4-stroking at the beginning of the cut.

Yeah I thought I got it pretty close to where it should be at the end of everything it's just difficult to adjust the carburetor with two little screwdrivers holding that damn ring in

 

[August76]

I think where I have it set right now I said it for the base setting of one and a quarter turns which is the factory recommended and then I backed it 1/16 out on the idle low because of my elevation but I left the high exactly where it's at 2 error on the side of rich
I went and picked up my other saw just to do a little comparison and was cutting some small stuff in the backyard and I tell you what this saw pulls pretty good
And I'm using the old bar and beat up 28 in chain and it was just yanking the wood at me where it's at right now seems pretty good but I know it's got more in it the poor thing is just been run hard right out of the box that's the problem I need to order one of the screws for the top cover anybody know what size those are I have a catalog for the albourne company but I guess they're shipping might be a little ridiculous but they have all that kind of stuff and pretty cheap bars and stuff and rings and jugs and all sorts of crap

 

[blsnelling]

5200 in my backyard but where I go cut is even higher

Altitude Factor
1000 .9711
2000 .9428
3000 .9151
4000 .8881
5000 .8617
6000 .8359
7000 .8106
8000 .7860

150 x .8617 = 129 PSI

I don't think you have an issue at all.

 

[August76]

Altitude Factor
1000 .9711
2000 .9428
3000 .9151
4000 .8881
5000 .8617
6000 .8359
7000 .8106
8000 .7860

150 x .8617 = 129 PSI

I don't think you have an issue at all.

Wow thank you so much Brad it makes sense now that definitely makes sense wow I wish that this had been brought up earlier I didn't know that it would affect it that much.
I know I've had other issues with other stuff when I was doing the air conditioning on my Chevy truck being able to pull the right amount of vacuum on the system was extremely difficult because of the elevation I couldn't get more than 22 inch pounds of vacuum on the system when I needed about 25 or 26 the first year that we lived here I felt like I quit smoking all over again to I can't even imagine what it would be like in Denver Colorado.
Vehicles get better gas mileage up here than they do in Phoenix but you have less power. Both my diesel in my gas truck get about 17 miles per gallon out here but that's freeway

 

[August76]

I went over to Ace Hardware to the Stihl dealer Department and got some scabbards today for my other saws and they told me the same thing about the altitude I didn't think it would have that much of an effect

 

[Westboastfaller]

Huskihl brought the elevation factor up earlier. No loss to elevation stats were given. You are lucky it wasn't earlier. That saw was an appalling mess inside. I couldnt believe it.

Denver? The 'mile high city' A mile being 5200ft. about the same. You say you cut at 7000 plus.

So you are at 86% at 5000ft
A 14% los.
That seems to blow your mind but when it got warm it dropped from 130psi to 105psi.
call it 100 vs 125, =1/5
1/5 of 100% is 20% more.

off the top of my head its an additional 19% los + 14% + 5% more at 7000.
Should put you almost at 100psi according to science and your tester.

There is always a sceptic in the crowd.

if it felt like it cuts the same to you now with heat in it then tharts all that matters.

 

[August76]

Huskihl brought the elevation factor up earlier. No loss to elevation stats were given. You are lucky it wasn't earlier. That saw was an appalling mess inside. I couldnt believe it.

Denver? The 'mile high city' A mile being 5200ft. about the same. You say you cut at 7000 plus.

So you are at 86% at 5000ft
A 14% los.
That seems to blow your mind but when it got warm it dropped from 130psi to 105psi.
call it 100 vs 125, =1/5
1/5 of 100% is 20% more.

off the top of my head its an additional 19% los + 14% + 5% more at 7000.
Should put you almost at 100psi according to science and your tester.

There is always a sceptic in the crowd.

if it felt like it cuts the same to you now with heat in it then tharts all that matters.

I have Denver mixed up with something else but isn't there another city over there that's at like 11,000 feet or something silly?
At the top of Mingus Mountain is about 8000 feet and some of the spots in Prescott where I go are around the same
It appears to be cutting better. I don't think it's going to get used anymore the rest of the year or probably for the next 6 months so I may just put it up on the shelf and leave it alone for now I swore that I saw a rings that were cheaper then 15 bucks... hell I bought the piston and rings for my 03 8 for less than that. I think I paid like 12.99

 

[chipper1]

That'll bring that saw to life

Well maybe for the first 5-10 min.

What's the squish measurement on it?

That's funny, maybe it got a double base gasket at the factory .
I know different now cause well I .

Not surprising with the factory grind.

It looked to be a semi chisel chini chain .
Sure you could make it cut better but why waste time when the link for a $15 dollar Oregon was posted .

Did anyone else look closely at his new chain? I think it's 90% of the problem.
That goofy safety sally super low kick back chain isn't doing you any favors. That's the type of chain that comes on new home owner saws for limbing, there's giant pieces between the cutters, that stuff sucks for bucking wood. I bought one once for my saw as it was all the hardware store had, it was useless in wood bigger than 6 inches.

For the win.

If it was me I would buy a full chisel chain and go from there. Your going to need one anyway.

Yep.

Those safety chains cut like crazy when they are filed correctly.

It sure would be nice to hear that saw 4 stroking hard, just to know it's getting lots of fuel.

As stated above, maybe for a few minutes.
It was blubbering like mad.

I could get out the angle grinder lol

That's what I do, but remember it's still only a semi chisel so it will not cut as fast as a full chisel.
Regardless it will only hold an edge for a while it's a rental chain, they put a new one on each time the saw goes out, you can't expect much out of them.
I do admire you for continuing to try, keep at it and that saw will be a beast.
Here's a 365oe in some slightly wet pine for a comparison.
It has a 24" B&C with a full chisel hand filed chain, look at the chips coming off it.
This should answer the original question that is the title of the thread a bit, rememberer this is the 65cc version not 71 like yours.

 

[August76]

Well maybe for the first 5-10 min.

That's funny, maybe it got a double base gasket at the factory .
I know different now cause well I .

It looked to be a semi chisel chini chain .
Sure you could make it cut better but why waste time when the link for a $15 dollar Oregon was posted .

For the win.

Yep.

As stated above, maybe for a few minutes.
It was blubbering like mad.

That's what I do, but remember it's still only a semi chisel so it will not cut as fast as a full chisel.
Regardless it will only hold an edge for a while it's a rental chain, they put a new one on each time the saw goes out, you can't expect much out of them.
I do admire you for continuing to try, keep at it and that saw will be a beast.
Here's a 365oe in some slightly wet pine for a comparison.
It has a 24" B&C with a full chisel hand filed chain, look at the chips coming off it.
This should answer the original question that is the title of the thread a bit, rememberer this is the 65cc version not 71 like yours.

Looks about right

 

[chipper1]

Looks about right

It's for sale .

 

[blsnelling]

BTW, a saw will always have measurably less compression when tested hot. Don't worry about it. Always test cold as that's the standard.

 

[August76]

BTW, a saw will always have measurably less compression when tested hot. Don't worry about it. Always test cold as that's the standard.

Thanks Brad. The elevation factor and carb adjustment was key. I set the carb at the base 1 and 1/4 turn then leaned the low out hair to about 1 and 1/16 . I left the H at base and it was cutting nice yesterday.

 

[chipper1]

Thanks Brad. The elevation factor and carb adjustment was key. I set the carb at the base 1 and 1/4 turn then leaned the low out hair to about 1 and 1/16 . I left the H at base and it was cutting nice yesterday.

That was key to getting the saw running better, a new chain will now make the saw cut better.

 

[August76]

That was key to getting the saw running better, a new chain will now make the saw cut better.

Yeah i need to make a order list and get everything at once.
I was looking at light Forrester bars

 

[chipper1]

Yeah i need to make a order list and get everything at once.
I was looking at light Forrester bars

Never been around those, but I've seen some of their higher end bars that looked to be good quality, but never ran them to know personally.