Rebuilding And Porting A Stihl 076

[nstueve]

Yeah that too. :msp_wink:

Did you advance the ignition any?

not yet... :msp_biggrin:

it's a fun saw to run but the 084 (masterminded also) gets it all done and is a tad lighter. Having a ported Makita 9010 does 93% of the big work I need, and I will skip over to that 084 (masterminded) before the 076 most times.

 

[Stihl 041S]

If you're gonna make an omelet....

A jeweler's saw on the inside the gripframe and a gentle touch with a TIG was the savior sometimes.

 

[Mastermind]

A jeweler's saw on the inside the gripframe and a gentle touch with a TIG was the savior sometimes.

We've found another jug. I just want to make sure it's done as well as can be......

 

[nstueve]

I just think it's cool and I don't have one

if you really want one I might consider releasing mine to a good home...

 

[oaky]

(five years later..)

how'd this saw come out mastermind?

 

[Ax-man]

Funny that this thread popped up even though it is five years old . I would like to know how this turned out also. Brings back memories. First saw I ever split was a 76 because of stripped threads on the clutch side. I screwed up a jug on a 76 thinking I could hot rod a 076 saw not by porting nor by taking out the base gasket but by milling the bottom of the jug like I did . That was a big mistake. When you put the saw back together the carb and muffler don't line up to finish putting the saw back together the right way. I had to find another jug. I think is has already been said but those horizontal drive engine don't gain much after they are modded. I don't know .I am not a pro but a vertical drive engine will get better gains than horizontal . I am going to shut up before I get in trouble and say something I shouldn't. Any modding I did after this incident was on smaller saws with vertical engines . You don't learn unless you try.

I would like to know if anyone knows the carb settings for a stock 76. I have two and got them off the shelf recently to see if they would start and run for some possible milling work this spring. One started easy enough ,one didn't and this is the one I bought a brand new Walbro carb and was never happy with the way it ran. It was harder to start and now wouldn't start till I switched to an older Tilly HS carb that air tested as being good. Go figure ,the saw now starts easier and runs nice in the shop.

I have them set at around 1800- 2000 rpm at idle , sounds a tad fast to me but I don't have any reference other than a generic chainsaw service book that says to set idle just below the clutch engaging the chain to spin. That setting is way to fast to me. High speed wide open with b/c is right at or a tad under 10,000 rpm. They sound about right to my ear and I don't want to lean them out any more because 076 isn't a high revving saw. I just want to know if my ear and tach is in line with stock specs . They both sound good considering how long they have been sitting . I will give them a try in the wood later on to make sure they don't fall flat on their faces in the cut.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Odd-ball cylinder ... intake and exhaust on the same side !

 

[oaky]

carb setting 'by the book' is
high speed screw - open 1 turn
low speed screw - open 1 and 1/4 turns

ive heard its best to adjust them in the cut

 

[oaky]

mean idle rpms - 2000
and high - 10000

it sounds like your right in the ballpark ax-man

 

[Ax-man]

Thanks for the reply . Those carb settings are right where they should be . I love the sound of those big old Stihl's.

 

[super3]

[QUOTE="mcafee, post: its best to adjust them in the cut[/QUOTE]

this ^^^^
lean on it a bit in a cut while set rich and lean it out till it clears up.

 

[Oldsawnut]

I know I'm a weird one but I prefer the 75/76 to the 84/88... Great saws only problem I see of them is the bottom of the case gets broke a lot. Behind the crank area where it doesn't really matter. I usually don't plug the over rpm/governor thing in the carb. These saws are made for torque and long bars not speed.

 

[bulletpruf]

Really?????? I've worked on many 041's, 045's, 056's. I've never seen that before, but maybe my memory is just that bad .

Ever seen that cylinder-retaining stud/nut setup before in any saw besides these Stihls? Just curious.

Bryan

FYI - the 075 and 076 use the long studs, but not the 050/051. However, you can often find 051's for a good price, then drill and tap the holes to the next larger size (long studs are one size larger), and put an 075/076 jug on your 051 for 111cc. You can usually find decent OEM TS760 (concrete saw) jugs and pistons on eBay for not much $.

 

[belgian]

They emphasize several times in the 075/076 workshop manual about proper torque on the studs...otherwise the jug expands and pulls them right out of the case.

I just repaired a nice 076 that was scored. When I dismantled it, I found the cylinder lost 3 out of 4 stud nuts, causing a massive air leak. Somebody should have listened to JJ...

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I like mine to idle around 1800 and then make the spring a little tighter so there is no chance for the clutch to engage. When the idle is fairly fast it does not get all loaded up and is ready to roll at any moment. Thanks