Stihl parts are not intended to be purchased on line. Since you run 0.325 chain search for Oregon product. A rim drive set up is available from both Stihl and after market.
Asap service following a hurricane?
Is the shop lying to me and next steps?
- Thread starter WoodLuvr
- Start date
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Asap service following a hurricane?
A few years ago, members here were quick to assume every noob was Brush Ape. Now that he's over on the unmentionable forum, the noobs here all get called trolls. This place has gone down the shitter
Honyuk96
ArboristSite Operative
Don't add any unnecessary confusion here w talk of aftermarket parts.
Seems like some folks are actively trying to run this place down the shitter to me.
Should be helping new members best we can, not insult and chase them away...like having a guest at your home.
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've always gotten top notch help here that I'm grateful for.
Admittedly, I do FAR more reading than posting.
To the OP, if my 660 blew up today I'd skip the ultra cheap and replace the top end with a Meteor or Hyway Piston/Cylinder.
Should be helping new members best we can, not insult and chase them away...like having a guest at your home.
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've always gotten top notch help here that I'm grateful for.
Admittedly, I do FAR more reading than posting.
To the OP, if my 660 blew up today I'd skip the ultra cheap and replace the top end with a Meteor or Hyway Piston/Cylinder.
Big Red Oaks 4 me
Fun with flying wood chips
If he didn't mention the name of the dealer, he's probably just being a nice guy. Nothing wrong with that. Heck, we need more of those here. 
The very thought of someone being a "Troll" very honestly never enters my mind. The reason is I guess I judge people by the way I am and I could never imagine posting just to see if I could get someone else mad or to argue seems childish to me. That just does not compute . I assume that if you ask for help or advice you actually need it. Guess that just shows I am too old.
Good luck woodluvr hope you get your saw straightened out.
Good luck woodluvr hope you get your saw straightened out.
Stay away from P and R, gets downright nasty in there, and trolls are rampant! They’re easy to spot in the chainsaw forum.
Rick Stephens
ArboristSite Operative
flatbroke
ArboristSite Operative
My 562xp book oil section
Thanks to everyone keeping this on track. I'll never use outboard oil again. I should have thought twice. I was stupid.
Flatbroke, I just now downloaded the regular owner's manual for the 660 and it says basically the same thing.
So I looked into it and if you are telling me I could upgrade my 250 to have the kind of sprocket my 660 has then that is pretty cool. I can see how the rim type would wear longer. I think the sprockets are too cheaply made anyways. Would be cool if they had tungsten-carbide or something to last longer.
I have a lead on a deal for an OEM P&C kit. I'll let you know if I get it. I'd rather go OEM. If it doesn't work out I will try the Hyway/Meteor kits. I have also decided I am going to do a complete tear down to change the bearings and seals. I heard it said on here someplace that many recommend that is good practice if the piston has fused metal to the cylinder as in my case. I would hate to have put a new OEM head on and have it ruined by bad bearings going out by the tiny shards still in there I couldn't get out completely otherwise.
Flatbroke, I just now downloaded the regular owner's manual for the 660 and it says basically the same thing.
So I looked into it and if you are telling me I could upgrade my 250 to have the kind of sprocket my 660 has then that is pretty cool. I can see how the rim type would wear longer. I think the sprockets are too cheaply made anyways. Would be cool if they had tungsten-carbide or something to last longer.
I have a lead on a deal for an OEM P&C kit. I'll let you know if I get it. I'd rather go OEM. If it doesn't work out I will try the Hyway/Meteor kits. I have also decided I am going to do a complete tear down to change the bearings and seals. I heard it said on here someplace that many recommend that is good practice if the piston has fused metal to the cylinder as in my case. I would hate to have put a new OEM head on and have it ruined by bad bearings going out by the tiny shards still in there I couldn't get out completely otherwise.
Rick Stephens
ArboristSite Operative
Which would you rather wear - the sprocket or the chain? A tungsten carbide sprocket would mangle the chain, which would then eat the bar. Is best the cheapest easiest to replace part be the wear item.
Don't feel Stupid WoodLuvr, I'm 53, and have been around Outboard motors and Chainsaws all my life, and your thread is the first that I had heard that there was even a difference, never mind that outboard oil could actually harm a chainsaw.
I don't know if the Old Man, or his cronies ever used outboard oil, it wouldn't surprise me if they did, a lot of our cutting was using boats on the Columbia River, there was/is a Pile wing dam a bit down river from a log dump/rafting site, we used to go scout the wing dam for firewood, tow it back to the moorage, and skid the logs up the boat ramp with our old Ford station wagon to buck them up, we got a LOT of firewood off that wingdam.
I don't recall having used outboard oil in my own saws, may have happened, not a lot, but it sure won't happen again.
When I was ATVing, we used a Full synthetic, "Golden Spectro", the condition of the P&C's after even a Lot of HARD USE/ABUSE was incredible, Spectro is Good stuff, but I don't know if it was Liquid/Air Cooled specific, our Honda TRX 250R's were water cooled.
I think that you are in a Very large Club of those who didn't know that there IS a difference, I'm a member of that club myself.
Doug
I don't know if the Old Man, or his cronies ever used outboard oil, it wouldn't surprise me if they did, a lot of our cutting was using boats on the Columbia River, there was/is a Pile wing dam a bit down river from a log dump/rafting site, we used to go scout the wing dam for firewood, tow it back to the moorage, and skid the logs up the boat ramp with our old Ford station wagon to buck them up, we got a LOT of firewood off that wingdam
.I don't recall having used outboard oil in my own saws, may have happened, not a lot, but it sure won't happen again.
When I was ATVing, we used a Full synthetic, "Golden Spectro", the condition of the P&C's after even a Lot of HARD USE/ABUSE
was incredible, Spectro is Good stuff, but I don't know if it was Liquid/Air Cooled specific, our Honda TRX 250R's were water cooled.I think that you are in a Very large Club of those who didn't know that there IS a difference, I'm a member of that club myself.
Doug
Mauser
ArboristSite Operative
??????
I guess you never bothered to read the manual that came with any 2-stroke tool you might have bought?? At least as far back as 35 years ago they were very specific about the oil differences and oil requirements for air-cooled engines!
The warnings were probably there even earlier, but I cannot say for sure because that was when I bought my first 2-stroke tool.
Dude, I'm a Guy,
What's an Owner's Manual?
, is that something that you keep in your Murse?Might be time to turn in your "Man Card"
Obviously, there are a whole bunch of other guys on here, that weren't aware of the differences either, relax, it's my saws, not your's that I WASN'T putting Outboard Oil in anyway
Doug
Analyst Man
ArboristSite Guru
Skavenger
ArboristSite Lurker
It was OPEC it's a conspiracy to thwart global warming and help make the industry go green so the can slowly raise the price of bar oil. O the humanity.
Well now I have a question,.. I have owned and now do not a 1990 Polaris Indy. This sled was oil injection I have 2 or 3 quarts of 2-stroke injection oil left over from that sled. That sled was an air cooled 349 cc engine,... seeing how that engine was "air cooled" can that Castrol 2 stroke injection oil be mixed for use in chainsaws 50:1 ? It does list several pieces of equipment that oil is safe for by "the small pictures on the bottle" I don't think there is a picture of a saw on the bottle. I think I looked before.
Analyst Man
ArboristSite Guru
Speaking of oil, I run Quaker State 2 cycle oil mixed 40/1 because:
"The Quaker State 2-Stroke 2-Cycle Engine oil is designed for used in hot running, air-cooled engines such as chainsaws and leaf blowers. It features low ash-forming detergency additives, extreme pressure anti-wear components, a pour depressant and coupling agent to enhance oil-gasoline mixtures."
Never had an oil related problem.
"The Quaker State 2-Stroke 2-Cycle Engine oil is designed for used in hot running, air-cooled engines such as chainsaws and leaf blowers. It features low ash-forming detergency additives, extreme pressure anti-wear components, a pour depressant and coupling agent to enhance oil-gasoline mixtures."
Never had an oil related problem.
Oil threads, hmmmfph!!!
I have run a whole quart (about 11-12 gallons of mix at 50:1) of Amsoil Interceptor through my Stihl BR700 backpack blower. It's made for oil injection machines and I have had zero problems.
I have run a little less of a quart of Maxima K2 through my saws with zero problems.
Both quarts were leftover from my ktm 300 dirtbike when I changed oils with it. I might switch to klotz for everything next....love the smell.
I have run a little less of a quart of Maxima K2 through my saws with zero problems.
Both quarts were leftover from my ktm 300 dirtbike when I changed oils with it. I might switch to klotz for everything next....love the smell.
