Is the shop lying to me and next steps?

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HarleyT said:
I wear a lot of garlic cloves around my neck, and I have never even "seen" a vampire!!!
Click to expand...
I should have quoted the oil injection post cause that's who I meant to direct it towards. I love garlic, prob why I have never seen one either.
 
To recap, the dealer won't be called out on anything because they are a customer of the business the OP works for? Is that where it ended? And now onto DIY repair?
 
HarleyT said:
I wear a lot of garlic cloves around my neck, and I have never even "seen" a vampire!!!
Click to expand...
:laugh:

KiwiBro said:
To recap, the dealer won't be called out on anything because they are a customer of the business the OP works for? Is that where it ended? And now onto DIY repair?
Click to expand...
No, this thread has been about oil right from the start. What are you using?
 
vis·cos·i·ty
/ˌviˈskäsədē/
noun
  1. the state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction.
    synonyms: thickness, gooeyness, viscidity;
    consistency, texture
    "the viscosity of motor oil"
    • a quantity expressing the magnitude of internal friction, as measured by the force per unit area resisting a flow in which parallel layers unit distance apart have unit speed relative to one another.
      plural noun: viscosities
 
Analyst Man said:
vis·cos·i·ty
/ˌviˈskäsədē/
noun
  1. the state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction.
    synonyms: thickness, gooeyness, viscidity;
    consistency, texture
    "the viscosity of motor oil"
    • a quantity expressing the magnitude of internal friction, as measured by the force per unit area resisting a flow in which parallel layers unit distance apart have unit speed relative to one another.
      plural noun: viscosities
Click to expand...
Yep long as you have that your good too go.
 
My Bad, the Golden Spectro we used in the Quads, was a Synthetic Blend, not Full synthetic, and it did specifically call it a MOTORCYCLE 2 Stroke Oil, but didn't mention Air/Liquid Cooled in particular.

shopping
 
Rick Stephens said:
Which would you rather wear - the sprocket or the chain? A tungsten carbide sprocket would mangle the chain, which would then eat the bar. Is best the cheapest easiest to replace part be the wear item.
Click to expand...

I see what you mean.

But enough about dealers and oil.

I need to get this thing fixed. I did end up buying the OEM P&C for $172.50 + $12.90 shipping. I think I got a pretty fair deal. I should have asked this first but the IPL lists two different part numbers for that kit (1122 020 1209 and *1211). *1209 is for the MS660, MS660 W, MS660 Magnum & MS660 Magnum BR. 1211 is for the Magnum R and Arctic. It is the 1211 that I bought. I'm not certain but I think my saw is a plain MS660 Magnum. What is the differences in those saws and tell me I'll be fine with what I got.
 
The previous cylinder and piston 1122 020 1209 was replaced by the version 1122 020 1211. The port timing was optimized on the new cylinder. As I know, you are fine with that cylinder.
 
WoodLuvr said:
I see what you mean.

But enough about dealers and oil.

I need to get this thing fixed. I did end up buying the OEM P&C for $172.50 + $12.90 shipping. I think I got a pretty fair deal. I should have asked this first but the IPL lists two different part numbers for that kit (1122 020 1209 and *1211). *1209 is for the MS660, MS660 W, MS660 Magnum & MS660 Magnum BR. 1211 is for the Magnum R and Arctic. It is the 1211 that I bought. I'm not certain but I think my saw is a plain MS660 Magnum. What is the differences in those saws and tell me I'll be fine with what I got.
Click to expand...
I’m glad you won that Bay auction. You got a good price. Nothing beats oem cylinder quality. There’s an oem gasket set on the bay for like 35 bucks. I would go that route too
 
Yeah, I saw that gasket set and am buying it. Feels good to know the cylinder I got is the better of the two. If I don't rebuild the bottom end and instead just clean it out will dousing it liberally with carb cleaner be fine? Should I let it soak a bit?

And I am still in need of knowing about what all might have been wrong, if at all, with my saw already that may have contributed to the top end getting trashed. I know bad bearings can cause that to happen, obviously. Someone else, don't know where, mentioned a cracked tube or something??? Is there anything I should check real good on the saw when I rebuild it aside from crank bearing play (which doesn't seem to be an issue with my limited skill) and the pressure test? And should I go ahead and replace that piston bearing anyway?

And if anybody has any informational links or other materials or little known tips they could share I would be grateful.
 
When your done you need to do a vac/ press test to confirm no air leaks. My guess it was just that crap China cylinder that caused the problem
 
If your gonna split the case, I would buy a case splitter like the Husqvarna one. There’s a guy on the bay that sells the pieces all cut out and you just weld together and it saves a lot of money. To put it together I would buy @Mattyo ‘s tool for reassembly. Makes it very easy and you can get the crank perfectly centered between the two case halves. I would strip this saw all the way down if it were me and Do the bearings, but that’s your decision to make.
 

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