Dads old 2100 light saber

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farmguywithasaw

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Hey how’s it going. I got my dads old 2100 going after many years of sitting. Runs not to bad. Pulls real hard. At an idle however does some funky things on its side. One side it idles faster, the other slower/ stalls. Any thoughts what causes this. I can tune a saw and I know having the low side too rich can cause stalling at idle but not sure what causes this. I made a video
 
So its been awhile but i thought i would just post the results so far. it was put on the back burner but i replaced the crank seals( even made my own instalation sleeve on the lathe out of a socket). the saw ran better however it still loads up and stalls with the pto side up. i have a carb kit and fuel line on the way today so i will post the results after i have finished
 
Nice saw I like 2100’s. I’d tear it down and do crankbearings too. Then your all set. I have one torn down right now, I ordered tools for it I have a few to rebuild. There is bearings and seals on eBay.
 
Im not gonna do the bearings, they are fine and plus i just put new seals in and i don't feel like tearing it right down. it has been rebuilt before and i don't think there are many hours on it since. its always kinda been a basket case or cursed but i think i got it sorted now. i did the carb and fuel line and the issue i was having went away here is the results pardon my french at the end

 
Im not gonna do the bearings, they are fine and plus i just put new seals in and i don't feel like tearing it right down. it has been rebuilt before and i don't think there are many hours on it since. its always kinda been a basket case or cursed but i think i got it sorted now. i did the carb and fuel line and the issue i was having went away here is the results pardon my french at the end

9 seconds of cutting wood--piss reving never ending:drinkingcoffee: Welcome to the site farm guy!! Nice saw--I have 1 also...
 
Not a bad idea to replace the seals but it's probably going to be a carb issue.

We have a really nice 2100 here, it's an "animal" but doesn't see much use as we have a longer bar on it for big work........Cliff
 
This saw did a lot of sitting and when I removed the old seals they were in bad shape. My dad bought the saw used before I was even around. He used to log 5 acre lots and get them ready for a house or trailer and sell the lot. Back then he had trouble with it so he took it to one saw shop. They called him to come get it said they could not fix it. They guy wanted a bunch of money and the saw was sitting in pieces in a box. My dad just picked up the box and left and another shop put it together. When I was a kid I remember him using it the muffler was always loose and it leaked gas, he finally gave up on it. My grandpa fixed it up and was going to make a racing saw out of it but never got it to run right and gave up on it. So many years later i decided to get it going. I got a literal truck load of saw junk and carcasses for 50 bucks. I got a chain brake, new oil pump drive gear and a new oil pump for it so turned out well
 
I like how you followed up with the results and there is so much to learn from everyone that comments on these threads. My problem is I learn a lot but can honestly say I have forgot more about a chainsaw than most of my friends ever knew....cuz I forget so much better than most people. Nice to have the history behind a saw that you take pride in..
 
I got a 298 the 2100 first cousin . I never replaced a rubber part . I owned this saw for decades if the 394 breaks the 298 comes out . The age of these saws are about legendary .
 
I said this before we can’t check crankbearings by the way the crankcase assembly feels. I just split a 2100 and the crank felt good when assembled. With the bearings out of it they feel gritty. The side to side play in the used bearings is a tad more than the new bearings. But the gritty feel means there trashed. If we do the crankseals might as well go through the whole saw. The gritty bearings won’t last much longer anyway.
 
Yeah possibly. Even a slightly used bearing will have a “gritty” feel because they run with very little lubrication. For example on my dirt bike I repack the wheel bearings regularly and when I clean out the old grease they feel that way but if you get in close you will see that the inner and outer race are still ok. Remember too that when things heat up they expand taking up some clearance. The crank had no play in it so I’m not worried. I do see your point however
 
I run into a slight idle issues sometimes when the low speed is set too rich to lower the idle. Fuel pools when idling, then moves when turned on one side or the other. If your saw had bad seals and had the low tuned rich to lower the rpm, you will be rich at idle after fiximg the air leak.

My 372xp did this. Worth checking by setting the carb screws to original/start position.
 
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