Swedish Brush|Clearing Axe

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BluntForgedEdge

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Just got this tool in the other day.

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Others prefer the Machete, Sickle, Bush Hook Blade and the like. Anyone have experience with using this or these?

Here's what one person's POV-Cam use of said SBA that's posted on YouTube.

[video=youtube;WhfT89JyOiM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhfT89JyOiM[/video]
 
I've also got one, made by Bacho, very similar to the one you have posted. They are great for clearing under brush on softwood trees before felling, unlike an axe you don't have to worry too much if it strikes the ground on a swing. The way its made its got no sharp point to dull like an axe face does. Blades can be replaced (bailey's sells them).
 
I'm thinking about getting one. Currently have a Woodsman Pal and an 18 inch Gurka Kurkuri that is really good in brush. Where are you in Nova Scotia, I'm from Chester Grant on the South Shore.

I've also got one, made by Bacho, very similar to the one you have posted. They are great for clearing under brush on softwood trees before felling, unlike an axe you don't have to worry too much if it strikes the ground on a swing. The way its made its got no sharp point to dull like an axe face does. Blades can be replaced (bailey's sells them).
 
I've also got one, made by Bacho, very similar to the one you have posted. They are great for clearing under brush on softwood trees before felling, unlike an axe you don't have to worry too much if it strikes the ground on a swing. The way its made its got no sharp point to dull like an axe face does. Blades can be replaced (bailey's sells them).
Thanks for your personal experience. Also my understanding is that it is Bahco/EIA in regards to some of the tools being manufactured. Then again, I stand to be corrected.
 
I have that same exact one. I believe it is a Bacho but can't remember. Try an remember to look at it tomarrow. They are excellent for smaller springier brush. bigger stuff they will often slice through and the arch will catch on the stob if cutting high up. The blades are reversable for long life. The newer blades that I see only come sharpened on one side but a file or grinder would fix that in a hurry. The only complaint I have on mine is it loses tension over time and allows the blade to pop out if struck just right. They are a pita to nearly impossible to get back in if you don't have a vise handy.

Happy brushing,

Wes
 
Well , two Nova Scotian's have one and one on the fence LOL
The trick for fast cutting with these axes is to cut at a sharp angle , cutting at 90 degrees is not efficient . Green branches around 2'' can be cut with 1 swing and work a heck of a lot better than an axe or hatchet for what they are designed for .
 
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Yes, thanks for the replies and the tid bit on how to use suggestions. Unlike the fellow in the video "chopping" at what appears to be 90 degrees, maybe the clearing would have been accomplished much easier and quicker had he known the angle?

Also, I'm trying to understand the part on "loses tension over time and allows the blade to pop out if struck just right."

Here's all I can find on replacing the blade.

[video=youtube;LeTPvCMiGZM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeTPvCMiGZM[/video]
 
Yes, thanks for the replies and the tid bit on how to use suggestions. Unlike the fellow in the video "chopping" at what appears to be 90 degrees, maybe the clearing would have been accomplished much easier and quicker had he known the angle?

Also, I'm trying to understand the part on "loses tension over time and allows the blade to pop out if struck just right."

Here's all I can find on replacing the blade.

[video=youtube;LeTPvCMiGZM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeTPvCMiGZM[/video]

That is the correct way to replace the blades. Over time through foul blows and such the tension is lost in the arch that holds the blades in place. If the tension is lost the blade can become slightly loose and when a foul blow happens the will pop out of the small notch for the blade nubs or all the way.
 
That is the correct way to replace the blades. Over time through foul blows and such the tension is lost in the arch that holds the blades in place. If the tension is lost the blade can become slightly loose and when a foul blow happens the will pop out of the small notch for the blade nubs or all the way.
I think I understand what you're saying. Thanks for the heads up!
 
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