Quick question(s) before I pull the trigger on a DHT 25 ton splitter

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I dropped the splitter off late Monday afternoon at Dave’s Repair Service, an authorized Kohler dealer/repair shop. He called by late morning the next day and advised that he didn’t find anything definitively wrong, other than the flooded cylinder and some dirt in the carburetor. He replaced the spark plug (3rd one now) and disassembled, cleaned and reinstalled the carburetor. He said it was running but we agreed that maybe it would be a good idea to let it sit all day in the cold (about 30°) and then give it a try again. I went down late in the day and the splitter started on the 3rd pull.

This morning I went out after it had sat all night (still about 30°) and it took probably 25 yanks to get it to run. It sputtered several times but just wouldn’t get going. I let it run for a couple hours and I ran all of the gas out of it. The gas was fresh 87 octane. Dave suggested running high-octane and trying to start it on full throttle. I have errands to run later and I will be stopping in at the local airport to purchase a few gallons of 100LL. We’ll see where it goes. I wish it was going back to Lowe’s but it’s too late for that now. Dave said the Kohler engines are good; better than Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh. The different splitter manufacturers sure seem to use those Kohlers on their splitters. But I can’t help but think if I had a Honda engine, I wouldn’t be going through this BS.

I’ll get some good gas in the beast and started up and get it through the system and see what she feels like in the morning…
Maybe its flooding put a shut off valve on the gas line if it dont have one and run it dry when done see if that helps.
 
Seems like I've read of people having flooding problems after moving a unit without a shut-off valve (or with the valve open).
Towing will do it. Check the plug if it acts up and see if real wet. I shut the fuel off when it used to flood and pumped the cyl dry with the plug out then it started. Turned out the carb float needle and seat were leaking. Also keep the rain off it.
 
Yes, thanks. I am aware of the fuel shutoff and flooding issues. I learned about that back in September when I brought my first one home from Lowe’s and it wouldn’t start (and I returned it and exchanged it for this one). I’ve been good about closing the shutoff valve after use or before towing it. I assume another in-line shutoff would not be necessary?

I got home with the 100LL fuel and filled the tank and got her running. I’m anxious to see if it makes any difference when I try a cold start in the morning…
 
I dropped the splitter off late Monday afternoon at Dave’s Repair Service, an authorized Kohler dealer/repair shop. He called by late morning the next day and advised that he didn’t find anything definitively wrong, other than the flooded cylinder and some dirt in the carburetor. He replaced the spark plug (3rd one now) and disassembled, cleaned and reinstalled the carburetor. He said it was running but we agreed that maybe it would be a good idea to let it sit all day in the cold (about 30°) and then give it a try again. I went down late in the day and the splitter started on the 3rd pull.

This morning I went out after it had sat all night (still about 30°) and it took probably 25 yanks to get it to run. It sputtered several times but just wouldn’t get going. I let it run for a couple hours and I ran all of the gas out of it. The gas was fresh 87 octane. Dave suggested running high-octane and trying to start it on full throttle. I have errands to run later and I will be stopping in at the local airport to purchase a few gallons of 100LL. We’ll see where it goes. I wish it was going back to Lowe’s but it’s too late for that now. Dave said the Kohler engines are good; better than Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh. The different splitter manufacturers sure seem to use those Kohlers on their splitters. But I can’t help but think if I had a Honda engine, I wouldn’t be going through this BS.

I’ll get some good gas in the beast and started up and get it through the system and see what she feels like in the morning…
Joe, I start my splitter,not DHT but Koehler motor on full throttle with the choke on. Usually 1 or2 pulls. AGAIN!! Send @DHT a PM Here.
 
I haven't started my 27 ton DHT splitter in about a month possibly a little longer 6.5 kohler.

I just went out and started it before I commented on this to make sure exactly what I was saying did work for my splitter .

current temp 25 degrees

pulled it out of the garage

check switch on
turn fuel on
throttle full
choke full
pull through 2 times easy
pull hard 1 time

it started then started revved high then started to sputter , I should have only moved to half choke I went to far and it died (that was me I should have stopped at half choke)

back to full choke , pull , it started moved choke to half this time and it stayed running well

back throttle down about a 1/16 of an inch I don't run full I run about 90% throttle. I let it warm up while I was hauling tonight wood in the house , then I could move the choke to off .

then to shut down I turn off the fuel and let it run out of fuel every time

usually I just leave the throttle at 90% where I like it and the choke and fuel are the only controls I use.

I use nothing but 91 octane no ethanol from the station my small engine guy sends all his customers to if they ask about fuel and where he goes and fills his cans and vehicle up. it is a Mobile station. (I use 87 octane 10% ethanol in my truck)
it is a small town you had one choice if you wanted ethanol free from a separate ethanol free only hose , a second station now has a ethanol free hose at the pump starting last month.

I try to not keep saw gas and small engine gas for more than a month or two then I dump it in my truck and get fresh if I haven't used it up.

try that start up and shut down plan and see if it works you , it was what I found worked the best for my snow blower and it has worked well for everything else also.
 
Pete, thanks for taking so much time to reply. I do love this board; everyone has always been helpful. Well, except for a few sarcastic jerks. LOL…

I have made progress! Yesterday it only took 63 pulls to get it started. I posted a video on YouTube and maybe some of the symptoms may help diagnose. The 100LL gas didn’t help, although strangely, I somehow feel better about paying $5.27 a gallon to run my small engines. Today, after 30 pulls or so I still can’t get it to run. It sputtered for about 5 seconds but it just doesn’t “catch.” I guess I better get in touch with DHT and talk about getting this thing to a shop---maybe back to Dave’s---for a more in-depth analysis and diagnosis (hopefully). Sigh...
 
Pete, thanks for taking so much time to reply. I do love this board; everyone has always been helpful. Well, except for a few sarcastic jerks. LOL…

I have made progress! Yesterday it only took 63 pulls to get it started. I posted a video on YouTube and maybe some of the symptoms may help diagnose. The 100LL gas didn’t help, although strangely, I somehow feel better about paying $5.27 a gallon to run my small engines. Today, after 30 pulls or so I still can’t get it to run. It sputtered for about 5 seconds but it just doesn’t “catch.” I guess I better get in touch with DHT and talk about getting this thing to a shop---maybe back to Dave’s---for a more in-depth analysis and diagnosis (hopefully). Sigh...
I would be cursing by ten pulls. Try a shot of carb cleaner or starting fluid from a cold start next time and see if it improves. Carb may be clogged.
 
I have the same Kohler on a similar Oregon spitter. My biggest problem starting it is remembering to turn the darn the switch on.

Try 1/3-1/2 throttle plus choke instead of full throttle. Also at some point you need to turn the choke off otherwise you'll flood it. On a chain saw I turn the choke off after it pops or 4 pulls if it doesn't pop. A four stroke is a little different but if it didn't start after 5-10 pulls I'd turn the choke off. I didnt' watch the whole video so maybe you did that.

When I'm done running mine I turn the gas off while it's running and let it run the carb dry. If there's fuel left in the carb it'll dry out and form gum, which plugs up the small passages in the carb.

High octane fuel contains fewer volatile elements and will make the engine somewhat harder to start. Fresh 87 octane would be the way to go. E0 if you can get it but fresh E10 is ok if you can't. I use a fuel stabilizer and rotate my stored fuel (E10 as that's all we can get locally) into the truck after a month or six weeks of storage in a plastic container. Gas will last a little longer in a metal container but can get water condensation. E0 will last a little longer but it goes stale too.

Since you've had problems with two units now and had one checked by a mechanic, it's probably not the units that are the problem. More likely your fuel or something about how you start them is making them hard to start.
 
Meh on the 87. Flash point isn't much different. Cetane is though.

He's using the same methods I use to start mine. I don't have his issues. I was thinking maybe debris in the tank if the shop cleaned the carb. If you can empty the bowl into a clear cup you can see if any debris are present. It will also show any separation in the fuel if for some reason there was a foreign substance in your tank, IE: water.
 
Meh on the 87. Flash point isn't much different. Cetane is though.

He's using the same methods I use to start mine. I don't have his issues. I was thinking maybe debris in the tank if the shop cleaned the carb. If you can empty the bowl into a clear cup you can see if any debris are present. It will also show any separation in the fuel if for some reason there was a foreign substance in your tank, IE: water.
Same here. My Koehler starts by the 2nd pull even in sub freezing temps .
 
I have to wonder if they didn't put strait 30 weight in that at Lowe's like they do the lawn mowers ?

the engine manual specifies zero up 10w30, from 32 down 5w30 and only 50 and above 30w

I would give real consideration to draining the oil and using 10w30 since how likely are you to get below zero


mine started hard like that once I left the gas on I left it in the woods , and it was 5 below zero and I had shut it down in the snow then it snowed more on it and it was covered in ice .

do you have a way to warm it up any ?

tarp and a torpedo heater heater ? even a colman lantern and a tarp something to get it up to about 50 under the tarp and get that engine temp up.

or get it started let it run 20 minutes then shut it down drain the oil and go 5w30 or 10w30

for reference engine manual page 5 https://dirtyhandtools.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Kohler-SH265.pdf

we used to take a metal garbage can lid put charcoal and lighter on it and let it get to coals then slide it under the old 1970s dodges to get them running at 20 below , then my dad put a very light weight oil in , the danger is exactly what happened to him the temp jumped up to like 80 the second week in April and he had to go some where thats about the time he realized he was still running the oil he put in at 20 below he changed the oil as soon as he could back to the recommended but it used oil after that so he traded it in at the dodge dealer they kept that car for years as the loaner kept trying to sell it back to him every time he was in for service cause by then they realized it smoked. since he hand't learned his dodge lesson yet he was back for service ever other month it seemed.

being your in pensatucky I would wager that your splitter has 30w in it as well as warm weather hydraulic fluid

at 5-10 below zero mine will start like that with 10w30 so I did decide to stop splitting below zero

when it was that cold I would cheat and pull the air cleaner and put a dribble of 2 stroke gas down the intake put the air cleaner back on and start it that gives that fuel a little time to evaporate and then it is sucking in a very rich mix it helps overcome the resistance of the thick oil then it fires.

you used to be able to start a car if you could get the first car started and thick jumper cables so that you could turn the second over and over and and over using the power from the running car to keep the cold car turning till it would pop off

your the running car and jumper cables in this case.


I have been running old used snow blowers most of my life so cold weather starting is a learned set of behaviors I have a little squirt bottle like what you put mayonnaise in at a sandwich shop I only use for gas pull the plug little squirt plug back in start some of the snow blowers I had that was a nearly every cold start thing and I just left a plug wrench in my coat pocket.
 
I once drug the snow blower up the back steps and parked it in the kitchen with a bunch of old towels around it so that I could get it de-iced enough to start , a few hours in the 70 degree house and it started right up. my wife just resolved she married a northern redneck many years ago. I also get away with working on chainsaws at the dining room table so long as I clean up.

I gave up my insulated heat-able garage for a house with 4 bedrooms concessions have been made on both sides of this relationship.
 
I have to wonder if they didn't put strait 30 weight in that at Lowe's like they do the lawn mowers ?

I am running 10W30 synthetic, and I’ve actually changed the oil twice---once after the recommended 5 hours and again pre-measuring the oil before filling the crankcase, just in case I somehow overfilled it.

At this point, fuel shouldn’t be the issue. My mechanic checked the carburetor bowl but found nothing unusual when he cleaned the carb. I’ve tried running 3 different kinds of fuel so far.

I’ve been in touch by phone and PM with DHT and my issues are being addressed and I believe they will be resolved. They’ve been great and I was hoping this was just a simple issue I could resolve on my own (and with helpful advice from the board) without being a PITA. I don’t want to be that guy who always finds a fly in his soup. This isn’t a DHT per se; it’s a Kohler issue---and probably just one faulty component, whether it’s the coil or carb or…. We had record rainfall here last year and I have to wonder whether this poor thing sitting out in the weather at Lowe’s all summer may be the issue. It certainly didn’t help. But at least at all the big-box stores, they are either sitting out front in the weather or behind the store in the weather, during the off-season. Mine was out back, behind the store with half a dozen other units.
 
good to know DHT is taking care of you , I know they were very good the one time I needed them I was surprised since it was right at the end of my 3 year warranty and technically I was the one who pulled my DHT 27 to n across a frozen farm yard where the old style low pressure hose hung down so low below the axle . its in my review on the reviews page if any one wants more details.
 
Seems like I've read of people having flooding problems after moving a unit without a shut-off valve (or with the valve open).
yes and if that happens it's best to pull the plug and pull the engine through several times to clear the cylinder.
 
Joe, I start my splitter,not DHT but Koehler motor on full throttle with the choke on. Usually 1 or2 pulls. AGAIN!! Send @DHT a PM Here.
My experience with CARB complyent engines is that they all want lots of choke and throttle for a cold start.Even if they've been shut down for 5 minutes they still want some choke for a restart.
 
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