Climbing line when spiking???

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

Hey everyone,

So Ive recently started climbing for removals and I'm starting to get a lot more comfortable (good boots made a huge difference). I've been learning a lot through my own exhaustion (via sweat) and getting pointers along the way from...well people like you! Thanks Everyone!!!

I want to start incorporating a climbing line while I spike up, I've gaffed out a few times and its scary AF. I am seeking advice for a decent equipment setup and some brief instruction? I am interested in getting the new Zigzag Plus or a Unicender.

If I enter the canopy via a SRT system should I transition DdRT system? Can I just tie a running bowline onto the stem and advance with my flip line? Any advice with redirects? Is using a climbing line while I advance with spikes safer? Thanks for the help!

 

[greengreer]

A choked system is necessary on a naked spar. I like a running bowline with a long tail most of the time. Spiking up just gotta get confidence in that flipline. That being said an srt line with a good multicender as back up goes a long way to building that confidence up.

 

[The Singing Arborist]

Having a climbing line is definately more safe when spiking up and easier coming down too. Some will say it slows you down, but I've personally never felt the need for speed when doing this stuff. I've seen a lot of videos of guys falling to the ground with just spikes and a flipline. 5 extra minutes to get up the tree never made the difference between profit and loss on a job.

If I'm not up for the whole throwline, and setting a high tie-in point, the choking running bowline works great for srt. For drt, I have an adjustable, retreavable false crotch that cinches to the trunk.

Both these methods give you an option for a quick and safe way back to earth in an emergency. Plus this gives you your second tie-in point for working your chainsaw. In reality, I see no sense being in a tree without a climb line.

 

[benjo75]

I like to set a climbline before entering the tree when possible. I don't hardly climb on spikes anymore anyway so it definitely makes it easier. Even if you ha spikes, if your line is already set you can work the tree from the bottom without having to climb to the top first. Plus your second tie in point is already there. I like to work srt. But sometimes Ill ascend srt then work ddrr. Whatever the situation calls for.

 

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

Thanks for the help everyone. Am I jumping the gun getting the Unicender or ZigZag Plus. Should I use a hitch instead? All I have now is (2) adjustable lanyards, a petzl ID, (2) micro pulleys, Petzl Left hand ascender, and CT right foot ascender. I keep hearing that any cammed tooth ascender can not be used for life support. I have used the ID for descent and evening some work positioning, is that a no no?

 

[The Singing Arborist]

Full disclosure, I haven't had a successful climb yet with srt so I can't answer your questions there. I use hitches and a hitch climber pulley for ddrt. It's all cheaper and more simple, plus I normally don't have to climb over 40 ft here in Utah. I have messed around with srt and the climbing hitches but it just doesn't work. You'll need to get some fancy new gear for srt.

 

[greengreer]

Either the zig zag or the uni will self tends with some weight under them. I've never tried a unicender but the zigzag seems pretty nice. Runs well srt with a rope wrench above it too. The lack of midline attachibility turns me off though. I really only double line off a crane ball, and I prefer a hitch for that. Srt I much prefer mechanicals.
Next time you got a long way to hike up on spikes, shoot line in and use that unicender. You can just free climb with your hands and let the devoce self belay you.

 

[CKguy]

ZZ is smooth and easy. Pair it with a rope wrench and go SRT. Great video on YT about ZZ SRT. I use a ZZ DRT and SRT and love it.

 

[Kiva’s tree service]

I’m curious what happened when you gaffes out, was it just one foot? Like how did you survive lol. I actually used to do the running bowline idea you had specifically for the fear of gaff out. Now I have made a choking lanyard system that negates the need to set of climb line first, yet still allows a rappel decent and removal from ground. In the pictures you can see the Tree Squeeze (overpriced piece of &$@!) next to my own much better design, and my prototype made with paracord (it worked well too)
Sometimes setting a climb line IS faster than bring my squeeze, but rarely. If you have any questions on how the concept works I’ll explain it in detail.

 

[Mparko93]

I’m curious what happened when you gaffes out, was it just one foot? Like how did you survive lol. I actually used to do the running bowline idea you had specifically for the fear of gaff out. Now I have made a choking lanyard system that negates the need to set of climb line first, yet still allows a rappel decent and removal from ground. In the pictures you can see the Tree Squeeze (overpriced piece of &$@!) next to my own much better design, and my prototype made with paracord (it worked well too)
Sometimes setting a climb line IS faster than bring my squeeze, but rarely. If you have any questions on how the concept works I’ll explain it in detail.

Hi Kiva,

Really interested in what you have made here!
Am looking at getting a tree squeeze for a number of applications,
Could you run me through what all the extra attachments uses on what you've made?
Is that almost like a lanyard that doubles as AFS?

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Best to trim w/o spikes, so even just practiced same on removals except with extreme exception.
Many trees after step off 24' ladder have friendly scaffolding to monkey gym anyways.
TITS strategy would say 2 lanyards.
.
Should at least have lanyard on, but branches problematic.
>>actually prefer Round Turn in lanyard to catch if slip/pass out/ 'dead manned'
Overhead line is best way to go IMHO. Can even be helpful hand rail.
SRT w/gear bag or other weight tied hanging on end
>> and Friction Hitch(FH) to belt set just rite to easily slide up and yet catch positively if pulled down
and have small carabinier or pulley around host SRT but snug against bottom of hitch can contrive fairly self advancing safety.
>> DdRT setup rope moves towards ground so no go
But, can extend connection from FH to saddle to arms length +
then, Prusic small piece of throw line etc. to static leg of DDrT (that dead ends to saddle),
to again, hold small FH tending pulley etc. under FH on the dynamic/changing leg of DDrT.
Can now pull free end as hand rail and advance FH up, but pull 2x as much rope as climb rule.
(enough to shorten both static and dynamic support legs).
OR in DdRT can have FH w/short 'bridge'to saddle/ normal position w/tending pulley under FH and a pulley on trunk to redirect tail of line to cohort to GENTLY help by simply, unobtrusively pulling tail to seat pulley snugly to FH to serve up/take up slack. Even can GENTLY and CAUTIOUSLY help upwards some.
Pulley fairly snug to trunk keeps from pulling you off balance etc. if stay right over it.