Advantages to using same chain on all saws?

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doubletrouble

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I am considering using the same pitch chain on all 3 of my main saws. I'm sure someone on here has done this. Just want to know the pros and cons since it will take a small investment as I change things over.
My 3 main saws are a Timberpro C6150, Poulan 260, and an older Poulan green saw (don't remember the model, 2600 maybe?) The Timberpro uses .325 .050 78DL and I am thinking of switching the Poulans to the .325 .050 chain also, l believe they both use 3/8LP at the moment.
Are there any advantages to converting like this? Other than the length would be the only difference and make it easier to distinguish among the chain as to which saw the go to.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
 
I am considering using the same pitch chain on all 3 of my main saws. I'm sure someone on here has done this. Just want to know the pros and cons since it will take a small investment as I change things over.
My 3 main saws are a Timberpro C6150, Poulan 260, and an older Poulan green saw (don't remember the model, 2600 maybe?) The Timberpro uses .325 .050 78DL and I am thinking of switching the Poulans to the .325 .050 chain also, l believe they both use 3/8LP at the moment.
Are there any advantages to converting like this? Other than the length would be the only difference and make it easier to distinguish among the chain as to which saw the go to.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
ONly issue is converting the older 3'8 lo pro to .325. MIght have difficulty depending on the saw. From my perspective , with three saws, I'd stay the course and save some money. Only need a 5/32 file and a 3/16th file.
 
As it stands now I have 5 saws total. The 3 mentioned above and a 1960's solo 640 and a Mac 10-10. Those two both use 3/8 chain. Was just thinking of simplicity but your right, they may use the lp chain for a reason. I did modify the solo slightly to use the same bar and chain as the Mac 10-10. In hind sight, not sure that was a great idea but it works for now. I don't use the 2 oldies much anymore, just on occasion when I want to "play" a little.
 
I was considering buying rolls and a chain breaker but from my research online it wouldn't be that much of an advantage unless I use alot of chain. Might be handy to have a breaker/spinner to fix the occasional broken chain but that's it. I've only actually had 1 break in the past 8 years.
 
I was considering buying rolls and a chain breaker but from my research online it wouldn't be that much of an advantage unless I use alot of chain. Might be handy to have a breaker/spinner to fix the occasional broken chain but that's it. I've only actually had 1 break in the past 8 years.

It’s a lot cheaper to buy a roll vs loops in the long run, you’re at one price vs it going up and up with by the loop.


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I run the same 3/8 chain, 20in bars on everything except my pouland pro 40. It was given to me and has the .325. I have extra loops and bars of 24 and 28 to to fit the 272, but it wears a 20 really well. Wait, I forgot, I have my fIL's old 55 that has the original 18in, .325 on it. I dont use that saw and only keep it because my wife would get pissed if she found out I sold it.
 
I'll need to see what chain my uncle's saws use. If we both use the same size or 2 it may be worth it to go in on it together and save some money on the chain.
 
I'll need to see what chain my uncle's saws use. If we both use the same size or 2 it may be worth it to go in on it together and save some money on the chain.

Take a 185 driver loop 60” bar 3/8’s chain x2 is about a third of the price as a 100’ roll.


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We use to get rolls for under 300 haven’t bought any saw chain in a while but I’d bet it’s still around that price, at 30 loops that’s nothing off the 100’.


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That's about what I came up with researching it online. I wouldn't save much per loop at all really. The little I would save could be better spent letting someone else assemble them for me.
 
Used to buy at the local Stihl shop at $18-$24 per loop. Then found I could order it or buy here for half. & I like Oregon better.
 
All my small saws use 3/8 low pro.

My 50cc saw uses .325 standard 20" and .325nk 18".

And the 54cc, 64cc, and 71cc all use full size 3/8.

No plans to change anything unless I find a deal too good to pass up.

A 1/4 carving setup would be nice to have for one of my small saws. But then I'd have 4 different size files.
 
I'd put 3/8lp on the timberpro.
Stihl 025 3/8 lp bars fit the Chinese saws but you may need a link longer chain. I have a 14 inch stihl bar on the 52cc Chinese saw but needed a 52 link chain not a 50 like the stihl spec's. I could've ground the end of the bar down a bit and made the shorter chain fit if I wanted to but had a bunch of 52 link lp chains so I didn't bother. I also drilled the oil hole out a bit so it oils better, the cheap Chinese bar had a tiny oil hole. The 3/8 lp poulan bars will fit the timberpro as well if you drill a oil hole in it, I had one on my 52 for a bit but the stihl bar has a larger tip which holds up better and throws the chain less.
My ported 52cc Chinese saw which will spank the stock timberpro cuts faster with 3/8lp than .325 and the chains only cost half as much too.
 

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