Fast Hydraulic Log Splitters

[Natster]

Some mfr.'s are making, and selling fast hydraulic log splitters. Eastonmade and others.
I have an old Lowes blue hydraulic. It's supposed to have real thin hydraulic fluid, and have some 16" cycle time. Well, I added some thick hydraulic oil, and it's maybe got 18-20" cycle time.
Slower when cold.
How do you get fast time, (anything faster than 10") out of a hydraulic splitter? Mine does have the 2 speed system. I think that's in the pump. Is there a way to get a 3 speed pump?
I don't know the answers, but I am sure somebody does!
Thank you,
Nate

 

[Ryan'smilling]

You make them fast with bigger (more GPM) pumps and small cylinders. I think Eastonmade uses more pressure to make up for the reduced tonnage from the smaller cylinder, don't know about the other guys. Beyond that, there's dump valves which increase speed and also generally reducing restrictions in the plumbing. Swept fittings instead of hard 90s.

 

[Natster]

If some box store made a fast hydraulic splitter, with a speed control valve, for safety, that would allow 4" to 12" speed range, and it was well made, I think it would sell well.
N

 

[cantoo]

It would also be more expensive to make and that is likely why they are not made. And I assume you mean 4 to 12 second range. To split hardwood that takes some serious dollars to attain. I built my 36" splitter and went with 16 gal pump with 2 stage. I wasn't that concerned about speed because I was going to add a auto cycle valve to it which I just did a couple of months ago. I assume that now I will be the slow part in my operation. Realistically I could likely split all the wood I need for my own use in less than 3 full days of just splitting. It just isn't worth the small time saving that I would have for the money it would cost. I cut these rounds in about 4 hours. About 60 logs 13'4" long maybe 10" avg diameter and cut to 16" long. Splitter is 36" so I split two at a time usually. Splitting with take maybe 8 hours? I really should time it to see what it actually takes. I just installed the auto split and haven't tried it out yet.

 

[muddstopper]

I have toyed with the ideal of building a super fast splitter before. Its not that hard to do but I am already the limiting factor in my productions. Increaseing the size of the hoses and ports is one inexpensive way to increase speed. Next thing would be to increase the size of the rod in the cyl. Bigger ports and hoses would allow the oil to flow faster and the bigger rod would increase retraction speed without scarificing anything in extention speed and power. There are all kinds of things you can do, but for every change you make, you will find another bottleneck in oil flow. Will the control valve hande the extra oil the bigger ports and rod will return thru it on retracton.Will the oil filter handle the oil also. Is the hyd tank big enough to handle the returning oil without the oil foaming from the velocity of the returning oil. Ect,ect, ect. You can build a hyd splitter that is faster and with way more power than a supersplit kenitic splitter, its just a matter of what your budget is. At some point you have to ask yourself how fast is to fast and just how much is all that speed worth. You also need to think about safety. Can you or your help keep hands and fingers in the clear and what about that big knarely knot that just happens to bind and fly off the wedge, its hurts a lot worse at high speed than it might at a much slower speed.

 

[KiwiBro]

Cycle speed still makes me smile a bit, because I've come to realise (hey, I'm a slow learner) production rates are often influenced more by everything else other than the cycle times of the push rod on a splitter.

 

[Deleted member 150358]

I'd like to try one of the box style that does 4-6 splits. Looks like they could make a decent productively increase. Keeping a fairly uniform sized split. Pulling bigger rounds back might be the limiting factor.

 

[Deleted member 150358]

This one is well thought out. The lift might be nice if a guy wants his back to last a few extra years.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

7-8 second cycle time here. Plenty fast enough.

 

[muddstopper]

If I really wanted to speed up a box store splitter, the first thing I would do is get rid of that little engine that wishes it could. This would allow you to increase the low pressure/high flow and allow your splitter to stay in the fast mode longer in difficult wood. Then if I really wanted to speed it up, I would go with a true high/low two pump setup. so that the pumps could pump more fluid in the high pressure/low flow mode as well as more fluid in the low pressure mode. Most of the box store splitters, or at least the ones I know of, are using the minimal size engine they can get away with when the pump is at maximum pressure. You will see a 3 or 4 to one difference between low flow/high pressure and high flow/low pressure. Most box store splitters you can adjust the high flow pressure so that the shift from high to low is higher giveing more splitting power in the high flow mode and really fly thru that easy to split wood. Most cases the machine is already spec'ed out with a engine just large enough to to pull the pump at the highest flow with the minimal pressure and the lowest of flows with the maximum of pressure. A simple engine change and pressure adjustment might be all it takes to make the operator happy.

 

[kevin j]

I built a splitter last year that totally goes against the 'biggest, baddest, splits anything' grain. (Bill: This is about the far end of the spectrum from your processor in build ! )

I finally got around to writing it up.

I burn wood for about 70% of my heat. I also volunteer with a charity group that cuts and splits firewood for needy families. I have a shared 4 inch splitter that I built covers, folding log lift, and folding outrigger feet. (Pics also attached.) It does bigger stuff, but is stored off site due to my small lot, and it is not easy for me to use for small scrounges, nor do I have an open trailer to haul it to the charity cutting.


I have used many splitters over the last 25 years and my main complaint is speed, very rarely force. My goal is the maximum amount of wood in the trailer in the minimum amount of time. I prefer to cut and split a trailer load of medium sized wood at a time, in the woods, and leave the mess and noise there. I would like a lighter splitter I can store at home, take with me to the woods, work rapidly, and bring home.


I have no ego problems admitting defeat, and I just leave the big rounds or twisted crotches in the woods, rather than spend a lot of time and sweat and muscles fighting them. I will get more wood per day and not worry about the 2% condition where the ram is too small. Those who brag 'there is nothing this one can't split' really mean that to handle the 2% monster rounds, it is too big and slow for 98% of the time. There is an old saying: "If your gear is never too small, it is always too big."


My original intent was to find a small splitter that could mount for travel on a receiver hitch on the rear of my trailer, to handle everything in one trip. Brave EZ Split, older Sears Craftsman, and Bachtold Brothers made really small and light units, but were single stage pump and WAY too slow (20-25 seconds).


My goals

1. For homeowner, wood scrounger use, not heavy duty wood lot use.

2. For wood diameter about 18 inch maximum (the largest I can lift or handle), and 16 inches long.

3. Want maximum speed, maximum mobility, and minimum weigh.

4. I don't want the biggest, meanest machine. I want the most wood in the trailer in a day

5. A 3 inch cylinder and 8 to 10 tons is sufficient for what I need.

6. Must be a two stage pump for maximum speed.

7. Minimize the hydraulic system weight, size, and heat generation by good design efficiency and a specific de-aeration spiral reservoir design.

8. Mount to receiver hitch, ideally for use but at least for travel, to move everything in one trip.

9. Good ergonomics for my aging body: good height, not bending my back, natural valve location and operation, minimize trip hazards, good input and output tables.

10. Quick to assemble or knock down with no tools, minimal or no loose parts, easy to move around, and should stand upright for storage taking minimal floor space.

11. Any single piece is to be portable by one person, either by wheels or by physically carrying.



CRITIQUES THAT I GET

1. 'Too small to do the massive rounds I get'. True. See goals 1, 2, and 4.

2. 'Too lightly built. My big rounds would crush that machine.' True. See goals 1, 2, 10 and 11.

3. 'Tank is too small for the 'rules' for 13 gpm flow.' Nope. Professionally designed to meet goal 7.

4. 'It will overheat.' Nope. Runs hot on hot days, 80 F over ambient, but adequate hydraulic practice for as hot of a day as I wish to work firewood.

5. 'Costs as much or more than a box store 4 inch splitter.' Definitely true ! Most major components cost the same regardless of splitter size, especially when purchased one at a time. It costs money to get to goals 10 and 11.


I am a retired mechanical and fluid power engineer. Eventually, I designed and built a portable 3 inch diameter splitter. It is designed to break down and all pieces be hand carried or loaded by one person, to be set up quickly for portable use, and for very fast ( 6 seconds out and back) operation on wood under about 18 inches in diameter. It all fits into a receiver hitch cargo basket for transport. The beam stands on end for storage.


DATA

Force and power 3 inch cylinder, 20 inch stroke, 2400 psi, 8.5 tons max.

Speed About 6 seconds full cycle at 1.9 tons

Production One person, 3/4 full cord per hour. 3 persons, 1 full cord per hour.

Heat 80F over ambient. 165 F tank on 85 F day.

Layout Moving wedge, 6 high, plus 3 inch secondary, 26 degree included angle

Beam 6 x 4 x 3/16 rectangular tubing, reinforced, 36 inches off the ground

Engine Honda 160 cc engine, salvaged, on vibration isolators.

Pump Haldex nominal 13 gpm (0.192 + 0.647 = 0.849 cir) Unloading 500-600 psi.

Valves Prince relief valve on power unit about 2600-3000 psi

Prince spool valve, RV 2400 psi, detent and kickout on retract

Tank Custom made, spiral de-aeration design, about 2-1/2 gallons.

AW46 petroleum hydraulic fluid.

Usual accessories Return filter, spin on 10 micron. Sight gauge/thermometer, fill cap.

Conductors SAE 37 degree swivels, -08 (1/2) inch pressure hoses, -10 (5/8) return

hose. -16 quick couplers.

Misc In and out tables, quick detachable wheels, no-tool assembly.

Tripod leg design. Stows for travel on a receiver hitch cargo basket.

END

 

[kevin j]

pics maxed out. kcj

 

[muddstopper]

Dang it Kevin, Now you got me wanting to one up your design. I like it, except for the having to assemble when I get to the wood. I got to think on it a bit. Going to give you a call and throw out my ideal before I make a fool of myself posting them.

 

[kevin j]

we’ll talk. that 7.3 diesel has serious possibilties !!!

 

[Ted Jenkins]

My current splitter is pretty fast as long as I am running it. I can take a load of wood from the back of my pickup to a one cord pile of wood in 45 minutes is that fast. Not so much. Could I split wood like that all day not even. If I really needed it done maybe 4 or 5 cords in a day. The following day lots of muscle rub. If the wood is some what large it will take often twice as long. I often work with 12'' to 36'' rounds over a span of 10 minutes. Over my years I have built modified numerous hydraulic pieces of equipment. So building some kind of splitter that can cycle in 2 seconds is no big deal. Would it be safe enough for the average person to use? My current project is to design something that my helper can manage safely without me holding his hand. We are just starting to utilize some conveyor equipment now for the wood processing. I can cut about 15 cords inside a short day so cutting is not much of a challenge. This can easily be done when there is nothing but a log deck or a row of logs. I would love to enjoy a 4 way wedge, but it has never worked in the past. If I could figure out how to process and have no smashed fingers that would be a major achievement. Maybe answer would be to have a good cradle with a single wedge utilizing a series of log lifts. Hopefully this can be figured out before My 90th BD. Thanks

 

[Codywork]

I have toyed with the ideal of building a super fast splitter before. Its not that hard to do but I am already the limiting factor in my productions. Increaseing the size of the hoses and ports is one inexpensive way to increase speed. Next thing would be to increase the size of the rod in the cyl. Bigger ports and hoses would allow the oil to flow faster and the bigger rod would increase retraction speed without scarificing anything in extention speed and power. There are all kinds of things you can do, but for every change you make, you will find another bottleneck in oil flow. Will the control valve hande the extra oil the bigger ports and rod will return thru it on retracton.Will the oil filter handle the oil also. Is the hyd tank big enough to handle the returning oil without the oil foaming from the velocity of the returning oil. Ect,ect, ect. You can build a hyd splitter that is faster and with way more power than a supersplit kenitic splitter, its just a matter of what your budget is. At some point you have to ask yourself how fast is to fast and just how much is all that speed worth. You also need to think about safety. Can you or your help keep hands and fingers in the clear and what about that big knarely knot that just happens to bind and fly off the wedge, its hurts a lot worse at high speed than it might at a much slower speed.

Recommendations for a guy with an acreage who stocks wood and currents mauls for workout but is getting a gym aka I want a so little but don’t want a 30 second cycle include prices please and some data you’ve learned with model recommended

 

[Codywork]

Recommendations for a guy with an acreage who stocks wood and currents mauls for workout but is getting a gym aka I want a so little but don’t want a 30 second cycle include prices please and some data you’ve learned with model recommended

I cut mainly elm oak locust Mulberry

 

[muddstopper]

Recommendations for a guy with an acreage who stocks wood and currents mauls for workout but is getting a gym aka I want a so little but don’t want a 30 second cycle include prices please and some data you’ve learned with model recommended

I have used rental machines before and thought all the homeowner machines to lack one feature or other that I wanted on a splitter. My suggestion is do the math and work backwards from there. How much tonnage do you think you really need. How fast to you want the cycle time to be. Tonnage is a factor of bore size and pressure. Speed is a factor of how much oil it takes to move your piston in and out. HP is a factor of flow and pressure. You decide what you want or need and work from there. Plenty of online calculators to come up with the numbers you are trying to achieve. The biggest problem usually is in the amount of money one has to spend.

As for my recommendation, I would stay more practical, I would build a multi "T" wedge design similar to what Eastonmade uses. I would go for the 28gpm two stage pump and probably a 4.5in bore cyl with the biggest rod I could find. I would make sure the cyl ports where at least 3/4in id. I would want a log lift for lifting and staging rounds to be split. I would also want a boom mounted remote controlled winch with log tongs, not that screw in thingy, to pull large rounds up to the log lift. If I was splitting wood on site I would want the wedge mounted on the tongue end of the splitter so splits could be loaded on the truck as they are split. If I was splitting in a dedicated splitting area, I would want the wedge on the opposite end from the tongue so splits could fall off into a pile. Probably want a tongue on each end of the splitter so I could use the splitter in either situation. I would step up the engine size to the next size above the recommended hp for the size pump I was using and I would also use a autocycle valve to free up the hands for moving wood while the cylinder cycles.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have used rental machines before and thought all the homeowner machines to lack one feature or other that I wanted on a splitter. My suggestion is do the math and work backwards from there. How much tonnage do you think you really need. How fast to you want the cycle time to be. Tonnage is a factor of bore size and pressure. Speed is a factor of how much oil it takes to move your piston in and out. HP is a factor of flow and pressure. You decide what you want or need and work from there. Plenty of online calculators to come up with the numbers you are trying to achieve. The biggest problem usually is in the amount of money one has to spend.

As for my recommendation, I would stay more practical, I would build a multi "T" wedge design similar to what Eastonmade uses. I would go for the 28gpm two stage pump and probably a 4.5in bore cyl with the biggest rod I could find. I would make sure the cyl ports where at least 3/4in id. I would want a log lift for lifting and staging rounds to be split. I would also want a boom mounted remote controlled winch with log tongs, not that screw in thingy, to pull large rounds up to the log lift. If I was splitting wood on site I would want the wedge mounted on the tongue end of the splitter so splits could be loaded on the truck as they are split. If I was splitting in a dedicated splitting area, I would want the wedge on the opposite end from the tongue so splits could fall off into a pile. Probably want a tongue on each end of the splitter so I could use the splitter in either situation. I would step up the engine size to the next size above the recommended hp for the size pump I was using and I would also use a autocycle valve to free up the hands for moving wood while the cylinder cycles.

I can not find too much fault with Mudds approach. As I am getting older I can not process wood like I used to on a standard cradle style splitter. A 18 HP engine moves a 28 GPM 6'' ram pretty well but when processing more than a hundred cords a year seconds count. Just moving the ram back and forth quick is not all there is to processing wood. Have a log lift a working conveyor system and a adjustable table to work with really improves the numbers even though the ram does look like it is breaking any records. Thanks

 

[sean donato]

For what it's worth, I get into allot of take it all or leave it wood scrounging, which leaves me with a lot of large rounds to deal with. I started with an really old 12ton splitter. Litterally sat on the ground, 5hp briggs and a very small pump. After using that for several years I decided to build my own splitter, so I could take advantage of a 4 or 6 way wedge on the bigger rounds (28" +) 5 inch cylinder rated at 3000psi. With a 16gpm 2 stage pump. At the time i didnt have the money for better than a 9hp engine. It's a bit slow (typically 20 second cycle time) but the 4 way wedge makes up for it. I have plans in the future for a 20hp engine and 28gpm pump, will have to increase my hydro tank from 5 gallons to closer to 10, or add a cooler. I also built a log lift shortly after it was finished. I made it to stand at a comfortable working height for me. Which my brothers and dad (who are all a bit taller then me) complained it's too short for then. It works well, and I find that I am able to keep a decent pace with it. I normally use 8 to 10 cord a year for heating my house and typically have enough split for a year between the spring and fall months. I'll have to snap a picture of it. Nothing spectacular..