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fields_mj

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Do any of you have problems with knotty pieces "launching" off your splitter when they finally break free? If so, what kind of setup do you have (push wedge, push through, kinetic)?

A little history behind the question:
I'm at a point where I want to add a splitter to my collection of tools. I've been looking at them for nearly a decade now and I'm surprised by how much the prices have come down in that time. I've run a splitter a few times, but probably only split 2 cords of wood on them total. I cut mostly shagbark hickory with some black locust, oak, and ash. Most of my rounds are in the 10"-20" range (but the locust is more like 24"-30"), and are about 22" long with an occasional long piece up to 24". My wood furnace has a 10" square door, and I don't generally split anything smaller than 8" unless I'm splitting stuff to take camping or to feed one of my rocket stoves. My firewood stays log length and gets moved in bulk until I'm ready to bring it into the house. I cut it to length about 10' from the house, split it by hand, and drop it down an old coal chute into the basement where it gets stacked near my furnace. I often do this of an evening after work when daylight is fading fast, and I generally cut and split about 1/4 of a cord at a time. The splitter would primarily be used very close to the house for short periods of time to split 12 to 16 large rounds into firewood before going into my basement. I've been discussing this topic with an older friend (local farmer) who has been splitting with a (25 hp) tractor mounted splitter since the late 70s. He runs his off a single stage PTO pump and has a double detented valve that allows him to spend his free time getting the next piece ready instead of fiddling with the splitter controls. His splitter has the wedge mounted to the ram, and he has added a table to it so that the wood stays right where it is until its split small enough to go in the fire box. He really likes his setup, and I can understand why. It will out run him and his 30 yo son combined and requires minimal effort on their part. He has mentioned that when he has a really nasty piece, occasionally, it will launch off of the splitter with some noticeable force when it finally splits. This caught my attention as a potential concern that I would like to avoid. I have some thoughts as to why his splitter does this, but I want to hear about others experience before I draw a conclusion. When I mentioned a kinetic splitter, he was not familiar with them. After a few pictures and videos, he was adamantly against the idea because of the concern of "launching" firewood off the splitter and hitting someone. If this is actually possible, it is a big concern for me since I have kids that I will be enlisting for slave labor in the coming years.

For anyone who has endured my ramblings thus far and is willing to go a little further, I'm also curious to know if you think a kinetic splitter would be a good option for what I'm splitting. I like the simplicity of the design (no hydraulics), but I'm concerned about the ability to split some of the larger stuff that I deal with. I plan on building some sort of lift or crane to get large rounds onto the splitter. I don't mind noodling the occasional large crotch (already doing that now) but I'd rather not make a regular habit of it. I'd like to keep the budget under $1,000, but for a 30 year tool, I'd be willing to go higher for a kinetic splitter due to the simplicity of the design, and I'm a big fan of buying good heavy duty USED tools and equipment.

Thanks,
Mark
 
The only time I have wood launch while splitting is when using a splitter with a wide wedge, which tends to tear the wood apart, sending the pieces flying to the side. When using a thin wedge the wood will sometimes climb the wedge but never launch the piece.
 
A well equipped super split with table, and shipping will set you back a little over 3k. (J model) If you bought one, and did not like it, you can sell it pretty fast, and only loose a few hundred. Many people have said they regretted not getting one yrs ago. There's a crowd trying to buy used SS.
Just a thought.
Nate
 
Mark
I have been building ,owning and running varies splitter's for 35 years. The first one I built 35 years ago had the wedge on the cylinder that splitter seemed to launch more wood than the other one I built with the wedge on the beam. I do think wedge design does make a difference but I think most splitters will launch a piece of wood when you least expect it. I myself don't like the wedge on the cylinder I like pushing the wood threw the wedge. I have owned one kinetic type splitter and it worked alright after I repaired it. It just didn't work well for our set up so it got sold. If you want to stay in that $1,000 dollar range then shop around and find the best deal on a new box,tractor supply store splitter. If you are handy you can pickup something used maybe homemade and repair it and use it. If you are willing to spend $3,000 grand on a SS then that kind of money opens up a whole new level of Hyd splitters.
 
I’ve owned my dirty hand tools 30ton for over a yr not and the only thing I regret is not buying it sooner, also dht is a site sponsor and they can help you out with a good price . Yes a super split would be nice but I’m usually splitting myself and a lot of the time I find it fast enough plus I enjoy doing it so no rush
 
We're on our third season with our 27 DHT, I would buy another in a Heartbeat. Our's has the the Kohler engine, and 3 years into it, it still starts on the first pull more often than not.

I got ours at Lowe's on sale for $1,200 and it has been worth every penny.

I haven't had any trouble with wood "Launching" from the splitter, it will occasionally Pop with a bit of force, but rarely fly with enough energy that it is a safety hazard.

My Wife enjoys running the splitter, and has laid claim to it in the Divorce;), we piggy back our's to the woods in the big trailer, I set up the splitter, buck up and roll her a bunch of rounds, then while she splits those, I buck and roll her more rounds, load splits, buck and roll, load splits, Repeat, Repeat, repeat.

The Wife and I both like Ram mounted wedges, but as we are often splitting 30+" rounds vertically, a push through beam mounted wedge style really isn't an option for us.


Doug :cheers:
 
You really shouldn't split then put right in your basement. It needs time to dry after splitting. Like, months if not years.
The trees are usually dead when I fell them. Those that are not are cut a year or two in advance (much longer for locust). I just don't bother cutting them to into rounds until I'm ready for them to go into the basement. No issues with moisture. That allows me to move everything in bulk (several logs at a time) with the forks on my 3ph. I used to handle every piece of firewood over 10 times before it burned. Now it's just 4 times. Cut, split, drop in basement, load in furnace.
 
-We have limbs that are up to 16'' so when one of those breaks just at the right time it hurts. The 16 to 18'' rounds with 5'' limbs are the worst as they can fly up to 30'. It is not often that I handle green wood. Most every thing I touch is very very dry. The well seasoned Pine is what does the most jumping around. When I see a piece that is going to pop I usually put my hand on to direct it down to protect my helper and yes once and awhile my hand is sore. My newest splitter will have a little extra protection from flying wood. Thanks
 
The trees are usually dead when I fell them. Those that are not are cut a year or two in advance (much longer for locust). I just don't bother cutting them to into rounds until I'm ready for them to go into the basement. No issues with moisture. That allows me to move everything in bulk (several logs at a time) with the forks on my 3ph. I used to handle every piece of firewood over 10 times before it burned. Now it's just 4 times. Cut, split, drop in basement, load in furnace.

I usually only go after windfalls, some of which may have fallen 2-3 years prior. They are always still soggy inside & won't dry out until sitting after splitting for a couple years.

As for your splitter questions, with your $ figure mentioned, just get a basic name brand box store splitter and be careful with it. Any splitter can spit something out in certain circumstances. But in my experience, it doesn't happen very often. And can most times be avoided by making sure the ends of your rounds are cut square - if the splitter is really starting to work hard on a particular piece & you see the end of the round isn't flush on the foot, stop & reposition it. Although at that point, it might be stuck on the wedge. It should only be a possibility with a real ugly crotch piece or the like - so avoid making those when you cut the logs into rounds.
 
I usually only go after windfalls, some of which may have fallen 2-3 years prior. They are always still soggy inside & won't dry out until sitting after splitting for a couple years.

As for your splitter questions, with your $ figure mentioned, just get a basic name brand box store splitter and be careful with it. Any splitter can spit something out in certain circumstances. But in my experience, it doesn't happen very often. And can most times be avoided by making sure the ends of your rounds are cut square - if the splitter is really starting to work hard on a particular piece & you see the end of the round isn't flush on the foot, stop & reposition it. Although at that point, it might be stuck on the wedge. It should only be a possibility with a real ugly crotch piece or the like - so avoid making those when you cut the logs into rounds.

I've never had that problem with logs except with red oak. I've done it both ways. It's a long-ass season for a full year, I've not had problems with it being wet. The splits do dry faster, but I kept far enough ahead that it doesn't really affect me.

Thanks for the recommendations on the splitters. I think I'm going to start keeping an eye out on the used Market. If that doesn't pan out I'll look in a box store next fall.
 
Some knots are just unavoidably ugly and will cause problems. I place my left hip against the log as it splits so when and if it pops it doesn't shoot into my stomach. Instead it takes the path of least resistance and the side oopsite of the operator will fly off.

If your stuff is knotty is get a hydraulic. If it is not get a kinetic.
 
Some knots are just unavoidably ugly and will cause problems. I place my left hip against the log as it splits so when and if it pops it doesn't shoot into my stomach. Instead it takes the path of least resistance and the side oopsite of the operator will fly off.

If your stuff is knotty is get a hydraulic. If it is not get a kinetic.
Briefly, I had a NorthStar 30 to with wedge on the piston--We split 18- 20 cords per year --raising funds for a orphanage-- my friend was splitting a knotty piece when it "popped" flying back and hitting him in the face knocking him out--thought he was dead for a moment--also was on anticoagulants (Eliquis) bled alot had broken nose and 2 lacerations --taken to emergency room had a head cat scan--- got rid of that splitter---bought a Woodmaxx kinetic 34 ---wedge is mouted not on the piston---a piece flies sideways sometimes--seems much safer---( and MUCH faster) had some problems with the Woodmaxx kinetic but the company has ALWAYS sent parts RAPIDLY and all under warranty---Joel in parts. Might buy a supersplit if I had it to do over -- Now that my woodmaxx is working good it is much more useful than the hydraulic --have about 35 hours on it (Honda engine has worked perfectly) BE very careful with kids around the splitter. Tom
 
22 inch wood 8 inch splits the DHT 27 ton would be a good machine for you as would the 30 ton but I have a 27 it will split up to 24 inch.

it is vertical and horizontal flip it up for the big stuff or noodle the big stuff down to make it easy to lift

I have had a few rounds that really wanted to stay together when splitting then in half vertical when it drops to the low stage of the pump for more than a few seconds take a step back , I have never had one go further than a foot.

the DHT is very forgiving splitting rounds with slant or angled cut ends just put the longest part down against the end plate the end plate has some traction welded on that grab the wood.

i regularly split the crotch of a tree it powers right through most slowing down to the low stage for a little bit then it pops apart

I split a lot of maple with twisted grain and knots

you will figure out what you can do with the splitter and learn to cut them into manageable sizes with the saw first

it will have a lot more to do with your ability to move it into the splitter than the splitters ability to push through it.

my 27 ton was about 1400 assembled at the local dealer ready to run
 

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