Husqvarna chainsaw assembly help.

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Sam Meyers

460ranch
Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
8
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Location
North California
My 460 rancher suffered a blow and started leaking fuel out of the plastic seem. I bought a new lowerhalf of the saw to fix it. My question is during disassembly of the broken saw i noticed there was what seemed to be thick grease on top of the crankshaft seals. The saw is new only 3 tanks of gas. Is the grease some factory assembly lube or what? Do you or are you supposed to grease the crank bearings during assembly? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have searched for a service manual with assembly instructions and cannot find. What is the proper build method? Thank you.
 
Some bearings have grease in them from the factory. When the bearing warms up it can ooze out. Maybe that's what you're seeing. Try to keep oil and grease off the outside of the bearings, seals, and clamshell sufaces. It keeps the sealant from bonding.
 
Couple drops of oil in the bearings. Sealant around the seals, cylinder base, and bottom pan
I would agree. Clean the case and crank seals with carb cleaner and reassemble with sealer, yamabond or permatex moto seal. Make sure to run a thin bead around where the head seals to the case, maybe 1/8” thick or so and give time for everything to setup.
 
Ok. Thank you everyone for your responses. The bottom half of the saw has a groove that a rubber seal fits in around the crankcase to jug mating surface. Since the saw is basically new im going to reuse the rubber and seals. I did find a general workshop manual that covers 10 different husqvarna saws. Im used to a specific manual with specific assembly instructions. All the instructions show pressing seals in to the saw chassis. On the 460rancher the seals slide on to the crankshaft and then are placed into the chassis. The workshop manual was pretty vague. There was no rtv or permatex on the rubber surface when i took it apart just a ton of thick grease on the outbound sides of the seals on the crank. I put a little grease on the bearings and no sealant on anything. Like i said the saw is new and i clean everything very well. I will vacume and compression test before finale assembly. My thoughts are they grease the crank bearing with some kind of lube it the factory during assembly. Well some of that lube ended up on the wrong side. Mabey it was a Monday or somthing.
 
Ok. Thank you everyone for your responses. The bottom half of the saw has a groove that a rubber seal fits in around the crankcase to jug mating surface. Since the saw is basically new im going to reuse the rubber and seals. I did find a general workshop manual that covers 10 different husqvarna saws. Im used to a specific manual with specific assembly instructions. All the instructions show pressing seals in to the saw chassis. On the 460rancher the seals slide on to the crankshaft and then are placed into the chassis. The workshop manual was pretty vague. There was no rtv or permatex on the rubber surface when i took it apart just a ton of thick grease on the outbound sides of the seals on the crank. I put a little grease on the bearings and no sealant on anything. Like i said the saw is new and i clean everything very well. I will vacume and compression test before finale assembly. My thoughts are they grease the crank bearing with some kind of lube it the factory during assembly. Well some of that lube ended up on the wrong side. Mabey it was a Monday or somthing.

Sam , I googled husqvarna 460 ipl and see that there are two gaskets and two seals that your saw uses to seal the crankcase to the cylinder and crank bearings .
I'm thinking that maybe your bearing seals are now gummy .
 
Me either. You shouldn't need sealant if you have a good gasket.
A lot of clamshells have two different seals in the IPL. One for install without opening the case, the other for slipping on the crank when the case is apart.
 
Ok.. as promised. Some pics of reassembly. To answer my own questions..

I stopped at the local saw shop and asked a few questions on assembly methods. These guys do all the saw work for the local loggers. They are badass and have all the answers.

The thick grease in question was the equivalent of waterproof marine grease packed heavily on the oil pump gear under the chain guide plate and should be cleaned and repacked according to use. Absolutely no type of assembly lube or anything but 2 cycle oil should be used on the inside of the crankcase.

The small rubber base gaskets on the crankcase should be inserted without any sealant. Sealant can be used as a temporary bush fix in a pinch. New rubbers and seals are recommended when removing jug from base. Im s20190213_121005.jpg 20190213_121013.jpg 20190213_113951.jpg 20190213_114006.jpg 20190213_114015.jpg ure a small amount of sealant is ok but not needed if new gaskets and things are cleaned properly before assembly.

A small amount of 2 cycle oil is all thats needed for the crankshaft bearings, pistion rod bearings and piston rings during assembly. The fella's at the saw shop said to much oil or anything different than 2 cycle oil can cause cylinder glazing and other crankcase problems.

Most importantly any time you disassemble and reassemble a saw you MUST VACUUM CHECK AND COMPRESSION CHECK!!! The guys at the saw shop were adamant about this!
 
The workshop manual did not specify that. The little gaskets have bells on the ends that press against the crank seals. They were quite tedious to keep on place during assembly. Henceforth the vacuum test to make sure they were seated.
 
I would suggest checking out Youtube...a gentleman goes by the name/channel Afleetcommand....everything to confirm what youre asking he demonstrates in plain everyday-easy to understand language...good tutorials.
 
I tested “PRO SEAL” silicone on dirtbike engines that had tranny oil leaks at the seam. I drained the tranny, washed the area with rubbing alcohol, put a spot light bulb on it to heat the leak area then applied the pro seal. Let it sit 24 hours. Fill it up with oil no leak. Pro seal can be found on eBay it’s good stuff.

Since this was my sons bike we had newspaper down to show if it was leaking. I poured oil on the paper as if it was leaking again. My son went crazy.
 
So far shes good. I have approx tank an a half running time. This saw cuts vert well with no mods. I put a brand new standard chisel chain on and was surprised it did not cut as fast as my little 240. I very carefully took a bit off the raker teeth anf WOW it cut good. The leading edge on the top plate of the chain was less than a 1/32 of an inch above the rakers. I took off a 1/16th and dam it grabs. Im sure the cutters dull fast as a result. And probably not as safe.
 
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