Crankcase spitting tool

[Oldhardwood]

Which one should I get, do I even need one? Here are two examples I've found does one have an advantage over the other?

 

[Sam R]

I've got one like the left - that's the Husqvarna version, it's worked when I've needed it. One of the members on here makes a custom splitter that - as far as I'm aware is far and away the final word on the subject.

 

[Sam R]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/one-crank-tool-to-rule-them-all.308891/

 

[Oldhardwood]

Yes, I believe he wants $170 for it .
I'm hoping to do it for much cheaper.

 

[Sam R]

The one I got is modeled after the Husqvarana but it's a build it yourself kit. It's all the pieces of steel cut out but you have to weld them together yourself. I think it was... Well under $100.

 

[Oldhardwood]

Did you get it from mattyo?

 

[Oldhardwood]

Also, I need one for a stihl.

 

[Sam R]

No I got it from I think eBay. It's pretty sturdy, it's the Husqvarna style one but it would work on any split crank it would fit. I've used it to split an 041, for example.

 

[ericm979]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/one-crank-tool-to-rule-them-all.308891/

That one from Mattyo assembles cases on to the crank. It does not split the cases. It's a nice way to assemble cases though- no possibility of stress on the bearing like some other methods (though arguably the slip fit is not so tight that the bearing will be damaged). The Husky style big C clamp that I got from Huztl does not fit my MS660 clone. The crank is too fat for it. I could modify by spreading the ears but then it might not fit other saws. The copy of the Stihl tool that bolts on to the bar studs (or the real one) looks like it'd work with many different saws but only removes the bar side of the cases from the crank. You'd still need another tool to get the ignition side case off the crank.

 

[Oldhardwood]

What ones would you recommend?

 

[Sam R]

That one from Mattyo assembles cases on to the crank. It does not split the cases. It's a nice way to assemble cases though- no possibility of stress on the bearing like some other methods (though arguably the slip fit is not so tight that the bearing will be damaged). The Husky style big C clamp that I got from Huztl does not fit my MS660 clone. The crank is too fat for it. I could modify by spreading the ears but then it might not fit other saws. The copy of the Stihl tool that bolts on to the bar studs (or the real one) looks like it'd work with many different saws but only removes the bar side of the cases from the crank. You'd still need another tool to get the ignition side case off the crank.

I could be mis-remembering but seems that I watched some of his old YT videos and he definitely used it to split a case. The principal is the same as any splitter or puller.

 

[pbilly]

take out all of the bolts and put a nut on the end of the crank and smack it a few times with a hammer and poof split with no special tools or damage

 

[drf255]

Depends on how many saws you’ll be doing.

If you take a saw down to the case and drive the pins out/remove all bolts, u can bake it at 325 until it’s hot and wack the crank with a nylon hammer. The parts will literally fall apart.

Unfortunately, you’ll need a bearing puller to remove those from the crank with this method.

If you choose the above, the one on the right is easier.

 

[ericm979]

I could be mis-remembering but seems that I watched some of his old YT videos and he definitely used it to split a case. The principal is the same as any splitter or puller.

Maybe he made a different tool there. But the one I have is only an assembly tool. It has no way to pull the cases apart. It only pushes them together.

 

[Sam R]

How do you @ people on here, maybe we can get Matt to weigh in on what it is he makes.