Building a rare one

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Don’t forget to deburr the port on the inside of the cylinder. I wrap a piece of fine sand paper on my finger to bevel the inside sharp edge.
I touch it with my burr and then spend some time with 500 grit. I didn't take pics inside the jug because I wasnt worried about how I finished. Also because everyone would say "you should square off those uppers" and I don't have a right angle setup to do that.
 
The problem with muscle is it aches all the time, then begins to disappear as you get older.

Then it REALLY aches :lol:
Believe me Chris, if it keeps working I'll transition to the flex shaft. I like the work and the results, so no reason not to move further with it.
 
All those guys that do the beautiful port work started right where we are right now. I don't have any plans to do anyone else's saws, but I'd like to do a good job on my own. I have a dental setup here I'm going to try for doing the uppers. Hopefully it will last long enough to do 2 or 3. When I eventually get to that point I will post my results. I'm working on installing a DC motor on my lathe so the saws are on hold.
 
Yes. I've been stubborn using 3/8. For limbing though I think that's the better setup for this saw. I won't mess with LP unless a GTG setup necessitates it.

That's my experience as well. I'm running .325 on my 350/346 and my 346ne. I do have 3/8 set up on my 261, but for limbing, .325 is where it's at. I would like to try both the 13" and 15" bars they talk about in Europe.
 
The smaller cc’s I leave them .325” chisel. The mid saws are 3/8” chisel. The larger power heads I like 404” but need to switch the 385 & up. I guess I’ll end up using .063” dL thickness.
 
The smaller cc’s I leave them .325” chisel. The mid saws are 3/8” chisel. The larger power heads I like 404” but need to switch the 385 & up. I guess I’ll end up using .063” dL thickness.
There are always exceptions. Some German red saws love 3/8 despite their displacement.
 
13” .325 8t is a great setup. You can still fell 20” trees with it, too, if you need to, but it is a nimble scalpel for limbing and trimming and all. Great for working fences, too - less chance of nipping wire as with a longer bar.
Your 238 thread had my attention Brandon. I could get away with a lot of my cutting with one of those.
 
I like the tad taller 404” tooth because I can file the gullet for more chip clearance
Plus the 404” tooth is longer. It lasts longer over the 3/8” chain.
 
There are always exceptions. Some German red saws love 3/8 despite their displacement.
I just put together a franken Saw, 350 Husky, 45 mm with a flattop, it’s wearing a 3/8 .050 guage on a 20” bar. Had all the parts on hand so I said what the hey? Haven put it in wood yet, but it seems like a good runner!
 
I completely forgot to add, just in case someone reads this that is building one without a base gasket. My squish sans gasket is .025". That's the most I've heard of on these saws.
 
I swapped in an HDA-199 last night. I probably didn't port this enough to need it but I have some around so I figured what the hell. I still have some tuning to do, but it's good enough to test. It feels a little lazier revving but feels a little stronger in the cut.

I always love how those cookies go flying off the top of the chain lol. Saw sounds nice and really revs!
 
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