Top Handle Recommendations

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Whats wrong with 200t's? All the money you can make climbing and your worried about a couple hundred? A climbing saw can help make 10's of thousands of dollars.
Nothing wrong with it. If I got one for free then I’d be all over it. But I’m not one to go buy a saw if I don’t absolutely need it. And being that I got a cs-3000 for free I’m gonna run what I have. Just curious on what people thought about them. Also I do not make money climbing trees. I don’t climb trees lol this will be a nice little top handle to keep near the chipper when you have one of those awkward pieces that just won’t fit.
 
Nothing wrong with it. If I got one for free then I’d be all over it. But I’m not one to go buy a saw if I don’t absolutely need it. And being that I got a cs-3000 for free I’m gonna run what I have. Just curious on what people thought about them. Also I do not make money climbing trees. I don’t climb trees lol this will be a nice little top handle to keep near the chipper when you have one of those awkward pieces that just won’t fit.
Only thing free around here is bad advise sometimes!
 
I have both 2511 and 355, have run the 192/3 (can’t stand them) 200T (good saw) and the 201. I have also ported all of them. Bang for the buck: Echo. For longevity the 200T is king. But, you can get 2 of the Echos for the cost of a 201T. Personally i prefer the ergonomics of the 2511 and 355 over the 200/201.

Just my $0.02

Interesting. Do you feel the 200t has greater longevity than a 201t? I can see the plastics and design of the 355t wearing out sooner. They all seem roughly the same in durability to me.
 
There are a LOT of haters on the t540xp. Their reputation is finicky, fragile and difficult to maintenance wrapped around good power. They aren’t popular here, so I haven’t gotten one on my bench. It is another option though, and affordable on the used market.
 
Thanks again for all the great responses guys. My buddy has been running a 540 for a few years. Actually had great luck with it. Picked it up used not running right. Just needed an impulse line repair.
 
Interesting. Do you feel the 200t has greater longevity than a 201t? I can see the plastics and design of the 355t wearing out sooner. They all seem roughly the same in durability to me.

I think, and its my opinion only, the 200 is more robust than the 201. The 201 doesn’t seem to be as ruggedly built. I am not a huge fan of the 201, although with good porting they will hang with a 200. As with everything there is a lot of trade-off when saving weight and making things compact. Again, I am not a professional. I don’t make a living working trees. I do have experience, but not enough to be in the same class as most here. So take what I have to say with a grain of salt.

I will be the first to admit the plastics on the 355 (and the 2511) are not what they should be. Hell, I just had a wrap handle on a brand new 355 break with less than a 1/2 tank through it. The box was beat up when i got it, so it might be partial shipping damage. I don’t know for sure. But you are correct; mostly plastic, and relatively easy to break. Again, i think the ergonomics are better on the Echos. I may be off base with that assessment since I have smaller hands. But, they are still my preference especially given the price point.

I was always taught the “2 is 1; 1 is none” mentality. Always have a backup. Having 2 saws that are a bit less rugged at the same price as 1 saw that is mildly better built is personal decision. I don’t look at the same as 2 Walmart Poulans to 1 Pro grade Husqy/Stihl/Dolmar, though.
 
All the plastic that I have looked at on my Echo 355t is PA6-GF which is glass fiber reinforced nylon so it doesn't note the glass fiber percentage like Stihl does at 30%, but it's the same material and it is glass fiber reinforced, so the plastics on Stihl and the plastics on Echo aren't different by much.

Obviously some parts are magnesium or whatever on Stihl pro saws when they're nylon on Echo like the clutch cover...but the price reflects that.
 
What do you guys think about the echo cs-3000? I have an old one that I got for free. Wondering if it’s worth a full rebuild or just a cheap “get it running” rebuild
I like the long open handle on the 3000. One of the best feeling setups, along with the little 2511.
But I prefer the bigger motor of the 3400/345 to the 3000/305.

My muffler modded 346 has decent power. But not really in the same class as the 200/201 I don't think. It's a slow torquy motor.
 
Ended up with a 355t. Think it will be a solid value for me and what I need out of it. Probably save my pennies for a 200t down the road or possibly a 2511t. Thanks again everyone.
Welcome to Camp Echo. Bang for the buck once you put some miles on this saw, I bet this won't be the last Echo you buy.
 
Nothing wrong with it. If I got one for free then I’d be all over it. But I’m not one to go buy a saw if I don’t absolutely need it. And being that I got a cs-3000 for free I’m gonna run what I have. Just curious on what people thought about them. Also I do not make money climbing trees. I don’t climb trees lol this will be a nice little top handle to keep near the chipper when you have one of those awkward pieces that just won’t fit.

Between the 3000 and it's brothers I own a few and have spent quite a bit of time with them.

Reliable as hell, good weight, great balance, low power. Will be a turd compared to a 200/355t.

Great saw in trees or out of them.
 
Welcome to Camp Echo. Bang for the buck once you put some miles on this saw, I bet this won't be the last Echo you buy.

Thanks. First echo saw I've purchased. I have two echo blowers and they have been great. The 620p has always sparked my interest. Time will tell how it pans out!
 
Decades ago the little jonsered was the hot ticket for a top handle with tree cutters.?
I guess there no longer made. My son dropped my 353 out of the tree I should of tied it. I think I have four of those 9” bar mcculloch saws.
 
T540xp here...Bought it used but refurbed by a member, and been using it about a year around the cabin and to be honest it has replaced both of my 346xp's for anything under 8" or so. just keep the chain sharp and run it like you hate the damn thing and it just keeps cutting. I honestly would have gladly bought a stihl 200t due to its reputation alone, but wanted to keep my parts suppliers to a minimum. Gave it a try and it has not disappointed me yet.. hell I might even sell one of my 346's in the near future as they see **** for use since I got it.
 
Ended up with a 355t. Think it will be a solid value for me and what I need out of it. Probably save my pennies for a 200t down the road or possibly a 2511t. Thanks again everyone.

Do yourself a favor: muff mod and tune it. Grab a fine thread sheetrock screw and screw it into the red plastic h adjuster on the carb. Don’t worry about changing the setting. Just thread it right in and keep turning, the red plastic lock will push up against the small aluminum frame that captures the locks. Pops right out and no damage to the carb. Now you can fully adjust the carb. Keep the 2 red plastic locks and the aluminum frame in case of warranty.

The muffler is just as easy: take the screws out of the muffler deflector, remove it and have a look. Several ways to mod that, so I’ll leave it to you to decide. Again, super simple.
 
Do yourself a favor: muff mod and tune it. Grab a fine thread sheetrock screw and screw it into the red plastic h adjuster on the carb. Don’t worry about changing the setting. Just thread it right in and keep turning, the red plastic lock will push up against the small aluminum frame that captures the locks. Pops right out and no damage to the carb. Now you can fully adjust the carb. Keep the 2 red plastic locks and the aluminum frame in case of warranty.

The muffler is just as easy: take the screws out of the muffler deflector, remove it and have a look. Several ways to mod that, so I’ll leave it to you to decide. Again, super simple.

Limiters were pull as soon as it hit the bench haha! Yea I was debating on what to do for a muff mod. I've seen some with an extra outlet on the bottom/drilled thru the deflector. The other was punching down the deflector hump. Any certain recommendations?
 
Limiters were pull as soon as it hit the bench haha! Yea I was debating on what to do for a muff mod. I've seen some with an extra outlet on the bottom/drilled thru the deflector. The other was punching down the deflector hump. Any certain recommendations?

I like to remove the deflector, mod the gasket to open it up a little, cut back the inside of the deflector divertor. Have to be careful punching the divertor down, it will spread the deflector out. Also have to be careful drilling the hole, too high and it will melt the plastic, too low and it will also melt the plastic. You can trim the plastic but you don’t have to if you put the hole in the right spot. I use a 3/8” stepped drill for the hole in addition to the deflector modification. The exhaust outlet on the cylinder is pretty generous, so the added 3/8 hole isn’t too much.
 

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