Picked up a real nice 075 with 43 and 49” bar

[motolife313]

everything looked very sound and tank was dry. We put my fresh gas in it and took about 10 pulls. Thing runs super good. Pulls the 43” chain like it has no chain on it. Revs up very quick and easy. New right away it ran good. Tons of compression Any ideas on the year?He said 60’s. And said Ts 750 hot saw is the same exact thing

 

[motolife313]

Gota repair this bar

 

[Ancient One]

I love them. Have had two 075's and a 075AV. Now have a 076AV. Before the lightweight saws came along the 075 and 076 saws ruled the big timber area where I live (Up on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington).

I gave the 075 and 075AV saws to the son in law, he logs big timber in the Oregon Coast Range. He has lighter saws but when he is in the big timber the 075's go to work.

Looks like the oil adjust lever is set to low, but turn it up to high (towards the plus sign). Thin your chain oil in the winter, I thin with 25 percent kerosene. Pump the hand oiler a lot!!! Long bars and chains need a lot of oil. I use "house blend" oil from the Stihl Shop, $11 a gallon.

If you mill with the Alaskan Mill, buy and use the auxiliary oil tank.

From the pros at the Stihl Shop here in Port Angeles: Run the fuel at 25 or 32 to one. Do not run at 40 or 50 to one, especially when milling with long bars. Good oil is cheap. Never use automotive oil or marine 2 cycle oil.

I have hundreds of hours with these saws and use good two cycle oil like Stihl and never have had a problem at the above ratios.

Chains: After I sharpen, I clean the chains with gasoline, dry, and lay out on a drip pan. Then squirt chain oil on the chains and let soak overnight before I put them back on a saw.

Cleaning a chain (for 6 feet of bar!) with brake cleaner prior to sharpening. Drip pans are handy.

I bought the Super Jolley (have not used it yet, the wheel is not mounted) for those long milling chains.

Oldies. The 076AV is low hours and the 090AV in the background hardly has 10 hours on it, it is darn near mint!

 

[motolife313]

Cool I definitely keep it rich then at 32-1. Ran it today in a cherry log and cut good but had a high idle and kept spinning the chain. Does this plug look too lean? Maybe idle is just high or possible air leak ?this top cover it lose. Is that normal?

 

[motolife313]

Found out why the top was lose, the carb manifold boot was totally loose lol. Looks like a barn find. Hopefully that’s not a aftermarket piston because it looks brand new. Im starting to think it was rebuild by the looks of the piston compared to the grime on the jug. What do you think should run real good after i get some new gaskets. I’ll get a carb rebuild kit also. Crank felt very tight. Zero play! seems like the saw is very well engineered so far. There was one small scuff on the piston and I hope the saw wasn’t ran long while it was loose and leaking air. I’m surprised it ran. It was super loose. Gasket look old so I’m thinking it’s stock piston unless they reused the old gaskets

 

[Ancient One]

Drain the fuel and start with a fresh load mixed heavy, 25 to 1 or so, for the first couple of tanks. Change the fuel filter.

I would squirt a little mix into the port while you have the piston uncovered. Extra lube for a dry start! Pull the plug and turn the crank over several times to distribute the fuel/oil mix over the cylinder walls.

Back when I worked in a truck shop, when we rebuilt an engine, everything was spotless clean. And we saturated the rings & pistons with 10 weight oil before putting the pistons in the cylinders. Also wiped down the cylinder walls with 10 wt. prior to putting the pistons in. The main and rod bearings got a heavy dose of moly grease at assembly. This way everything was lubed prior to the first start up. We even primed the oil pump prior to installing the completed engine, and made sure we had oil going to the rocker arms.

New spark plug of course. And pull it after the first tank of fuel and inspect. The tan coating on the plug in your photo looks OK for a 4 stroke but the carb likely was a little lean, explained by the loose bolts and sucking air. I think gap is 0.025, I will check when I go back to the shop in a few. A little carbon on the plug is OK, tells you that you have enough oil and you are not running lean. Lean will kill a 2 stroke quickly.

I would also install new fuel lines.

 

[BobL]

I
From the pros at the Stihl Shop here in Port Angeles: Run the fuel at 25 or 32 to one. Do not run at 40 or 50 to one, especially when milling with long bars. Good oil is cheap. Never use automotive oil or marine 2 cycle oil.

I disagree, these saws can easily run 40:1 with semi-synthetic, and even 50:1 with fully synthetic lube. I cut ~80 logs of most brutally hard timber with my o76 running 40:1 and there was a regular member on the forum here who has been using 50:1 fully synthetic lube since 2006?
My experience is that extra lube does very little the other than add to the levels of toxic fumes and unburnt lube around the operator.
If I ran less than 40:1, especially 2:1 I got headaches and my clothing hair and skin got covered in horrible greasy film.

 

[motolife313]

Bob do you run 3/8 or 404 on the 076? What do u think about 404 vs 3/8? I gave the big bar to a chain and bar repair shop and he said the bar and tip looked 30 years old and it’s a general bar with Oregon tip. That’s the 49” bar. I told him make it 3/8. It was 404 I think. He’s charging me 40$ for the roller bearing tip and 30$ to dress and groove the bar. Hope that’s a decent deal for the roller tip? He said he’s 2 weeks backed up so I got time to think about it. This is what I run. I know the lower the rpm the less oil required. But would mind running 32-1 in big wood with the bar at full depth

 

[BobL]

Bob do you run 3/8 or 404 on the 076?

I have run both but 95+% of the time I use 3/8.

What do u think about 404 vs 3/8?

Both can be made to work just fine. I buy rolls of 3/8 full comp and its become my stock chain across the 4 main saws that I use.

I gave the big bar to a chain and bar repair shop and he said the bar and tip looked 30 years old and it’s a general bar with Oregon tip. That’s the 49” bar. I told him make it 3/8. It was 404 I think. He’s charging me 40$ for the roller bearing tip and 30$ to dress and groove the bar. Hope that’s a decent deal for the roller tip?

Are you talking "roller nose" or "sprocket nose"?
Sprocket noses are gauge and pitch specific but roller noses are only gauge specific.
Roller noses are very handy because you can swap between 3/8 and 404 by just swapping the drive sprocket - I have two 60" bar,s one roller and one sprocket. Roller noses are getting harder and harder to find - last time I bought a roller nose for a 60" GB bar it was one of the last GB roller noses for sale here in Australia.

He said he’s 2 weeks backed up so I got time to think about it. This is what I run. I know the lower the rpm the less oil required. But would mind running 32-1 in big wood with the bar at full depth

Your choice, - I just don't like ending up at the end of the day withe a greasy film all over me.

 

[hseII]

Bob do you run 3/8 or 404 on the 076? What do u think about 404 vs 3/8? I gave the big bar to a chain and bar repair shop and he said the bar and tip looked 30 years old and it’s a general bar with Oregon tip. That’s the 49” bar. I told him make it 3/8. It was 404 I think. He’s charging me 40$ for the roller bearing tip and 30$ to dress and groove the bar. Hope that’s a decent deal for the roller tip? He said he’s 2 weeks backed up so I got time to think about it. This is what I run. I know the lower the rpm the less oil required. But would mind running 32-1 in big wood with the bar at full depthView attachment 722253

32:1 with some sort of Dino oil.

Stihl Orange bottle
ECHO/Shindowa Red Armor

Leave that Synthetic Plastic oil for the newer stuff: your head, (or lack of a headache from burning these synthetic oils), will thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Ancient One]

I disagree, these saws can easily run 40:1 with semi-synthetic, and even 50:1 with fully synthetic lube. I cut ~80 logs of most brutally hard timber with my o76 running 40:1 and there was a regular member on the forum here who has been using 50:1 fully synthetic lube since 2006?
My experience is that extra lube does very little the other than add to the levels of toxic fumes and unburnt lube around the operator.
If I ran less than 40:1, especially 2:1 I got headaches and my clothing hair and skin got covered in horrible greasy film.

Sure but after a lean run and maybe a rebuild it needs a lot of lube for break in. Run a couple of tanks of rich oil, then go to your regular mix.

But I have ran 075's for many years on 32 to 1 with no problem. I like lots of oil, 50 to 1 is not much for an old saw that may be a little loose.

 

[motolife313]

Thanks bob. Not really sure what you mean. Sprocket and roller seem the same to me. It’s removable tho. How often do you put grease in the small hole for the roller/ sprocket?

 

[BobL]

Thanks bob. Not really sure what you mean. Sprocket and roller seem the same to me. It’s removable tho. How often do you put grease in the small hole for the roller/ sprocket?

A sprocket has teeth that fits either a 3/8 or 404 0r . . . . . a roller has no teeth so provided it has the same gauge (eg 0.063") any pitch chain can ride on the roller.

This is my modified 60" Stihl bar - it had a 404 sprocket nose but I modified it so it could run a GB roller nose.
There is a increased chance of chain coming off a roller nose which I think is why these have become rare.

 

[motolife313]

That’s a serious bar bob.

working on saw lately. Today fixed up the handle. 3 bolts were stripped out so I went 6mm instead of 5 mm and 8 on the one that’s getting tapped in the pic

Got my bar rebuild for only 70$. He said it was all bent up and he straightened it out. Gota paint it now. Now a good strong paint? He deepened the groove also. Told me to grease the roller nose where the small hole is, I’m just waiting on the fuel filter and pickup line, Carb is rebuild and looks perfect

 

[motolife313]

Filter looks pretty good but I’ll just replace it. On going to start with 1 turn out of both high and low screw. Sound ok? Head bolts were a touch looses and a lot of broken and missing bolts that I’ll get to after seeing how this saw runs im going to weld up a tool to get to the spark plug. It’s kinda tricky with out looks like Becuase wasn’t super easy

 

[Ancient One]

I grease the roller tip at each gas fill, more often if I am taking long cuts on a log or bucking really big timber. Grease is cheap!!!

Look at the old Lincoln gun below, it is over 40 years old. I have a few more stashed somewhere in the shop.

Note the grease fitting I installed in the gun. It allows me to fill the little gun using one of my big guns. Don't forget to pull the plunger back!! Grease fitting is threaded 1/4-28, just use a plug tap to give tapered threads that will seal.

Stopped at the Stihl shop yesterday to buy a gun for the nephew. Darn, the china knock offs do not have a spring loaded plunger!!! Instead there is a plate inside the tube of the gun that you are supposed to push up with a screwdriver. What a bunch of hooya. I don't mind a little lacking in quality from the China made stuff, but when they leave out an important part it is just plain junk.

My old Lincoln below:

Note the plunger stem with the ring. Omitted on the china copy.

 

[Ancient One]

The spark plug, I just welded a short handle onto a cut down scrench. Over all length is shorter than the double ended socket of a scrench. Makes changing the plug easier. If I can remember I will take a photo today.

 

[Ancient One]

Hey Bob I love that roller tip conversion! Nice work.

 

[motolife313]

Kinda funny we have the same roller nose. What brand is it do you know? This guy had them in stock. I’m worried it’s china. Kinda funny I got a grease gun just like yours I bought off a Mac truck. Get home and it says Taiwan on the bottom. Want happy with that when I paid like 17$ for a 5 dollar greaser

 

[BobL]

Kinda funny we have the same roller nose.

Just clarifying that your nose is technically called a sprocket nose, a roller nose has no teeth.

RE: Greasing the nose
I haven't greased a roller or sprocket nose (especially on a CSM that has an Aux oiler) since about 2007.
My Bucking activities tend to be on the short (minutes at a time) if it was longer I would grease the nose.