Repair help.

[Zigzag]

I’m looking for some help/suggestions on a repair. I have a Hutzl Farmertech 372xp build. I rebuilt it the second time from the barrings up after about 9 tanks of gas it developed an Air leak in one of seals. While putting it back together I stripped the Exhust bolts that go into the Head. Yup the threads are stripped in the cylinder head. Any suggestions for this fix. I want to tap the threads but sizing the exhaust bolts is difficult. What size Tap and replacement bolt would you suggest? These are the 5mm bolts. The trouble I’m having is the exhaust does not allow for a bigger bolt to go through the pree drilled holes. I can drill them out some. But still frustrating situation. Would hate to have to replace the Cylinder head cuz of a couple stripped bolts.

Thanks.

 

[Ketchup]

You should be able to drill them out and put in helicoils or other thread inserts.

But the cost of the inserts will be half of a Huztl jug.

Maybe upgrade to OEM?

 

[Huskybill]

Napa has heli coils. When I was assembling the 155mm howitzers for the us Army everything was heli coiled. We put a dab of lacquer paint in the threads before installing the heli coil so it was glued in.

 

[Timdog]

Just saying

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[ChoppyChoppy]

I'm not even going to attempt to decipher the post, sounds like you need to get a heli-coil kit from the NAPA or Schuck's, they are about $20 and come with drill, tap, install tool, and ~5 coils.

Is that a vizsla in your avatar?

 

[Huskybill]

To save money I purchased some helicoil taps and inserts seperate and made my own insert L shaped insert tool with the slot in it. To save $$.

 

[Zigzag]

Thanks for the tip on helicoil. I am enjoying the learning the process of working on machinery. ChoppyChoppy yes that is my Vizsla. I might know more about bird dogs then chainsaws.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Thanks for the tip on helicoil. I am enjoying the learning the process of working on machinery. ChoppyChoppy yes that is my Vizsla. I might know more about bird dogs then chainsaws.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Mine seems to be part cat.

Yesterday he tried to climb a fake tree in the shop (techically Christmas tree, but we keep it there year round).

Somehow got his collar twisted up in a branch and string of lights and pulled the whole works over. Was dragging a 6ft tree around like nothing was wrong.

 

[cus_deluxe]

if it was me i wouldnt waste my time with helicoils on a $20 cylinder.

 

[dougand3]

Agree with no helicoil expense for a cheap AM jug. Buy a new cylinder or try a cheap fix. Never tried it but maybe fill holes with uncured jbweld, screw muffler on and wait 24h. You could tap 6mm threads in but then how much muffler metal has to be drilled out?

 

[Gord404]

Should be 6mm not 5mm from the factory

 

[Timdog]

You wouldn't have to drill anything the holes already there

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[Zigzag]

I might try the cheep fix. Since the cylinder is only worth about 30 bucks. Compared to 20bucks on Heliocoil. I’m experimenting and that’s why I like the AM parts. I love the 372 and getting a chance to build one with relatively low financial risk if things go wrong makes it a fun learning experience. Eventually I will pick up a parts saw for the right price and start intigrating OEM parts. Nice to have a saw you know personally.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I think those are 6 MM threads. If so, retap them to 1/4 inch. 6 MM is roughly .236 in. Obviously 1/4 inch is .250. AM cylinder isn't worth much more. Redrill the muff with a 1/4 inch drill.

If they're 5 MM, then purchase a 6 MM tap and the correct drill for the tap, I think a #7. Drill and tap both holes and go to Ace and pickup a couple 6 mm bolts the right length. I fixed a bunch of stripped out 5 mm holes with 6 mm tap and hex head screws.

 

[Mauser]

Locktite sells (or maybe "sold"?) a liquid thread repair product - I have a very old one on the shelf that I never used, I have no idea if it has heat restrictions, works worth a damn, or is even still available, but it might be worth looking into.

If it was my saw, I'd probably put the helicoils or threadserts in. Another option is to try and find a small lag bolt or wood screw that has threads just a little bigger than the stripped holes - for just holding on a muffler, might be plenty strong. Can do the same thing with a small amount of lead in the hole first (or even a masonry lead insert, if they make one that small). Maybe even an expanding metal wall anchor? If none of that works, or you decide it is not worth even that cost, I'd suggest you just use JBWeld to try and permanently stick those stripped bolts in - what have you got to loose if you are going to dump the cylinder anyway?

 

[rupedoggy]

I can't remember which Husky saw had studs for the exhaust. The ones I am thinking about are large threads for the cylinder but slim down for the muffler. Perfect solution for you. Just tap out the stripped threads for the size of the stud and lock tight it in. Remove the muffler anytime without fear of stripping it out. Maybe the saw was the 61?

 

[ncfarmboy]

I can't remember which Husky saw had studs for the exhaust. The ones I am thinking about are large threads for the cylinder but slim down for the muffler. Perfect solution for you. Just tap out the stripped threads for the size of the stud and lock tight it in. Remove the muffler anytime without fear of stripping it out. Maybe the saw was the 61?

Old 61 Rancher and 266's. 2 part ignitions.
Shep

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Locktite sells (or maybe "sold"?) a liquid thread repair product - I have a very old one on the shelf that I never used, I have no idea if it has heat restrictions, works worth a damn, or is even still available, but it might be worth looking into.

If it was my saw, I'd probably put the helicoils or threadserts in. Another option is to try and find a small lag bolt or wood screw that has threads just a little bigger than the stripped holes - for just holding on a muffler, might be plenty strong. Can do the same thing with a small amount of lead in the hole first (or even a masonry lead insert, if they make one that small). Maybe even an expanding metal wall anchor? If none of that works, or you decide it is not worth even that cost, I'd suggest you just use JBWeld to try and permanently stick those stripped bolts in - what have you got to loose if you are going to dump the cylinder anyway?

I tried that stuff about 15 years ago on a transmission. I had a shop work on it and they ended up stripping out most of the pan bolts.

I gave that loctite stuff a try. The Napa guy swore up and down it was the best thing and I figured what the heck, it was pretty cheap.
It didn't work at all.

I ended up putting helicoils and that fixed it.

 

[mbrick]

This thread was great because of the Vizslas!