No Spark Stihl 009

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chainsawdave

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Need help fixing buddy's Stihl 009, has no Spark as tested with spark plug installed and using known-good spark tester. Two questions: 1) does Kickback/ChainBrake have any connection to Ignition system? This spring-loaded ChainBrake seems odd as it is always in the Forward (i.e. kicked back) position. 2) the Sliding Kill Switch when moved forward contacts a metal plate which is always contacting the Flywheel therefore connecting to Engine Ground. See photo with multimeter probe pointing to the plate. This seems IMG_20190401_185324222.jpg to be a fault--i would think the Kill Slide would need to physically move the plate to contact the Flywheel thereby grounding any spark. Thanks for any help.
 
No, that little tit is on the end of a wire sneaking over to the coil, and when the clip touches the tit, it grounds out the coil and shuts the saw down.

011 001.JPG
 
No, that little tit is on the end of a wire sneaking over to the coil, and when the clip touches the tit, it grounds out the coil and shuts the saw down.

View attachment 727380
HarleyT, thanks for your prompt response--although I am not following completely your explanation. I did get with my buddy a few minutes ago, he explained that this is a very early Model 009 (mid-80's) that has no Chain Brake. So I can rule-out any ChainBrake-related Root Cause.

Is the metal clip supposed to slide pushed and pulled by the metal strip underside of the Stop Switch (back and forth--parallel to the chain/blade) on the white plastic part, thereby making (or not making) contact with the flywheel (or some "tit" that is hidden behind the flywheel) ? If so, then that (lack of sliding) is the root cause.

Please advise. Thanks again.
 
The tit-contact does not touch the flywheel, but is the end terminal of a wire that goes to the coil, and the metal clip contacts it to shut off the saw.
I'll take some pics here in a few.
 
HarleyT, thanks very much for the photos, this helps a lot. Tomorrow I will try to remove the flywheel to debug further.
Today I removed the flywheel, but this design still has me "stumped". Can anybody shed light on this? This metal (aluminum?) Split clip seems to be always connected to the coil. And i don't see that sliding the Stop Switch will move thus Split Clip. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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You have points on this model, and the "clip" sticking out should only be touching plastic. The sliding stop switch bottom is made of metal, and when slid forward touches this contact and grounds out to the saw body through the slide clip, thus shutting off the ignition.
 
On your model, lift off the white plastic cover under the flywheel, and look at your points. If you clean and adjust them, the saw would probably run. The saw that I have in my pics, has the module that eliminates the points, that mounts on the coil.
 
On your model, lift off the white plastic cover under the flywheel, and look at your points. If you clean and adjust them, the saw would probably run. The saw that I have in my pics, has the module that eliminates the points, that mounts on the coil.
I believe I am getting closer to finding the smoking gun on this. The points seem fine--they are clean and seem to have the right gap/closure when I rotate the crankshaft. However, with Ohmmeter I determined that the Clip is connected to cylinder head, muffler etc. Whereas I would think the clip should NOT be connected to cylinder head, etc. Is my understanding correct?
 
I believe I am getting closer to finding the smoking gun on this. The points seem fine--they are clean and seem to have the right gap/closure when I rotate the crankshaft. However, with Ohmmeter I determined that the Clip is connected to cylinder head, muffler etc. Whereas I would think the clip should NOT be connected to cylinder head, etc. Is my understanding correct?

It must insulated from touching any metal, if it touches metal on the saw it will ground out the coil and no spark will get to the sparkplug.
 
It must insulated from touching any metal, if it touches metal on the saw it will ground out the coil and no spark will get to the sparkplug.
This saw is driving me crazy! The clip is definitely touching ground metal "by design", or is this are assembled incorrectly? See attached 1st photo--with the points fully open (I stuck a bit of paper in the points gap) I get zero resistance across the meter probes. It seems like everywhere I probe (except through thick orange paint) everything is connected to engine ground. The clip is screwed to the baseplate that points and condenser are attached to--please see 2nd and 3rd photos. Is it possible that somebody prior to me assembled this incorrectly by omitting an insulating spacer (see 4th photo)?
 

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If that clip the black probe is resting on in the first top pict is touching ground anywhere it will ground out the spark from the coil. That clip has to be insulated away from ground, then there is a sliding metal flat bar that is attached to the shut off switch, it slides forward and back. When that flat strip/bar touches the clip coming from the points it shuts the engine down, that metal strip grounds to the metal muffler housing.
 
Your saw setup looks "boogered" from someone earlier, get an ignition chip, if the saw is worth it.
It would work if it did not touch metal but I can`t see from his picts where it is touching metal. No way will he get spark with it grounded. He could remove that clip altogether then check for spark.
 
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