Nik's Poulan Thread

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Went out in the woods to cut off some cedars & trim back some deadfall with my Super S25 & found these wild morel mushrooms popping up everywhere along the north sides of the wood lot.

Frenchman’s gourmet type they say, but just taste like beef to me after being sautéd in salted butter, bullion, & some cut green beans, lol.

Spring has finally sprung, burp!

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That is sooo awesome! Keep note of that spot. There is a good chance that they will be there next year. Western PA season is the end of April beginning of May all dependent on the temperatures. I've had no luck with morels but good luck with chanterelles. I found a couple really nice patches that produce half decent. The trick with those is I have to get to them early or they get buggy real fast. There's also a nice ramp area within a short walk from the chants.
 
I guess I’ll take it with me to work tomorrow and pull the flywheel. I’ll take some pics and post up of what I figure out. Hopefully something simple.


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No I sure don’t. Is there something I can make. I’ve made pullers for my old pioneer I have



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This 245sa with the powersharp set up was a cool idea back in the day. Unfortunately the chain becomes useless and a wall hanger if the stone is bad. That's where I'm at right now. On a good note the barracuda chain is .325 78 dl, roller nose bar and rim setup which makes me think it should convert to 3/8 70 dl. .325 seems foolish on that saw. Does anyone know if it's a small or large spline rim? I have to do the carb/lines, make a clutch tool and would like to have all the stuff on hand do everything together .
 
This 245sa with the powersharp set up was a cool idea back in the day. Unfortunately the chain becomes useless and a wall hanger if the stone is bad. That's where I'm at right now. On a good note the barracuda chain is .325 78 dl, roller nose bar and rim setup which makes me think it should convert to 3/8 70 dl. .325 seems foolish on that saw. Does anyone know if it's a small or large spline rim? I have to do the carb/lines, make a clutch tool and would like to have all the stuff on hand do everything together .
If you have the Oregon drum, it's a large rim.
 
Hi Guys,

Hoping someone can give me some guidance on fixing the fuel leak on a 4400 Counter Vibe which I picked up recently. I've not been able to find a shop manual for this saw and I don't have much experience with chainsaws in general.

Fuel is leaking from where the tube enters into the fuel tank. Any thoughts?

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Second that on the 3/16x 5/16. Just replaced mine last month. Real PIA. I bought 6 foot of hose. Sliced 1 foot( wasted) and rolled it up to get it to slide into the tank. Might as well replace the filter too while your in there.


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20190404_095540-1280x720.jpg The easy way is to cut a 45 on the end, run some tie wire from the hole down and out the fill hole. Cut a small hole in the fuel line at the 45,and run the wire thru and fold over and twist the end, pull the wire with line attached up and out the small hole, use some pliers to help when the 45 starts to show. Pull a few inches and cut square, finish by pulling the required amount. Done .
 
So kind of of the wall question here. So my 4200 I’ve been working on as I get time between an infant, toddler, wife, full time job, overtime, and part time job. The saw starts but will not stay idling long, bogs on throttle, and wants to kick the starter rope back out. So it’s cause the recoil spring to loose its retraction. I’m almost ready to box the thing up and ship it to one of y’all to fix for me lol.

Question: What would cause that? And am I overthinking the process with a thought in my mind that the flywheel key may be broken and cause the timing to either Advance or Retard?


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If a key goes the flywheel will advance. You can always put the piston at TDC and see where the magnets are in relation the the coil laminations.

Most saws fire at around 28 - 30 BTDC so if the manets are far past (counter clockwise) the coil laminations, it has slipped. It will still have spark but no where near where it needs to be timing wise.

I think the cause of keys breaking are from having oil on the tapered surface of the crankshaft or in the flywheel hub. They need to go together dry.
 
If a key goes the flywheel will advance. You can always put the piston at TDC and see where the magnets are in relation the the coil laminations.

Most saws fire at around 28 - 30 BTDC so if the manets are far past (counter clockwise) the coil laminations, it has slipped. It will still have spark but no where near where it needs to be timing wise.

I think the cause of keys breaking are from having oil on the tapered surface of the crankshaft or in the flywheel hub. They need to go together dry.

Sounds good. Had a late start this morning and forgot the powerhead. I’ll have to take a look at it on Saturday when I get home. But thanks for the input.


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