Low compression on my new Stihl MS362

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My saw idles fine. The few limbs I've cut..no problem. The saw bench runs fine it just doesn't have any power. If it had a tune problem...pretty easy to check the tach is right there. So you have ask if the saw doesn't have a problem why wouldwouldn't the shops take it as trade at a used saw value? Bottom line I'm out $1000 , they don't want and I don't want it. Yes I was stupid...I should have ran it put it wouldn't matter if I did that's the point...but knowing the thing is tune correctly and putting the right amount of oil on the bar to me is taking better care of it...making ever effort that it's going to last longer. Its a Stihl pro saw...the shops haven't had problem with tach or the oiler only my complaint that it has no power. They both ran it and both have seen the problem with the saw stopping. The 1st shop won't admit to it anymore but the 2ND shop still does. I was standing right next to the guy from the 1ST SHOP when it did multiple time's. They both told me I need to get use to it ...well 15" of wood should be nothing to 60cc pro saw.
Well while we are checking every thing put a straight edge on that bar and see if its bent.
 
Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.
 
Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.
Could the bar be bent check it? Did you cross check that gauge yet? We still dont know for sure its low compression!!!!!!!
 
Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.

With a high-revving saw you rather open up the throttle and then start the cut than opening the throttle after starting the cut (as a high-power but low-torque engine will have problems increasing rpms under load)... I might have gotten that part wrong, though.
 
I wish you would pull the muffler!!!!!!!!! Maybe it can be fixed cheaply! They are going to screw you good on trade!!!!!! Send me the damn thing and I will look at it and fix it free labor plus parts and shipping. Stop dealing with them car salesman!
Lone wolf for president!!! He speaks with wisdom Young Grasshopper--Listen to him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Why do I keep clicking on this thread!!?!?!???:crazy2:
Curiosity has killed my 4 cats--we gots to know the final score--I may just go buy 3 saws like his and do some testing and inspecting to wrap up the suspence. This is better than Columbo mystery Theatre...
 
Well cutting rounds off a log is pretty basic start your cut, open the throttle and straight cut down the wood. I always watch for bark on the bottom of the cut on for...let off. You can't use the dog on this saw.
Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.
 
Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.
I dont even have to do that with my 241 his saw should pull without being super mindful of it! somethings wrong with it alright! He has another saw close to that one he said and no trouble with it!
 
I dont even have to do that with my 241 his saw should pull without being super mindful of it! somethings wrong with it alright! He has another saw close to that one he said and no trouble with it!
He's already said he loads the saw up, the saw shop cut with it and said it was ok, a short period video of his cutting technique will show whether it's operator error or not.
 
Yes, but do you keep the revs as high as possible or do you load it up, bog & stop?
I remember my neighbor was ripping small logs in half , after a few hours listening to him getting nowhere by bogging the saw down, I went over & showed him to not force the saw untill it bogged & keep the saw revving flat out & lightly guide the saw while it did the cutting.
No I'm trying to keep the saw running at 10k as best as I can't
 
No I'm trying to keep the saw running at 10k as best as I can't
Why 10k? Where did that magical number come from? If the saw is loading & stalling in the cut it needs to be more revs with less load, you don't need a tach to cut well, it's just a feel of pressure & revs, you will not hurt the saw by reving the guts out of it, that's how the saw is designed & meant to operate. The difference between a saw cutting well & not is a matter of grams of force sometimes with the ability to let the saw clear & spin back up to peak revs again in a fraction of a second.
 
love the torque of the 460, especially in that hardwood there. My 462 is starting to wake up and gettin real strong now, prob close to your saw there. I got my snap-on 10mm compression tester hose today and checked the compression. With the regular hose and brass adaptor (the two on the left in the pic) it was blowing 120psi. With the snap-on hose (in the middle in the pic) its blowing 160psi. Both using the same gauge there. For the OP, i hope the Stihl rep can straighten things out for you, that saw should really rip, i wouldn't give up on it yet.
 

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love the torque of the 460, especially in that hardwood there. My 462 is starting to wake up and gettin real strong now, prob close to your saw there. I got my snap-on 10mm compression tester hose today and checked the compression. With the regular hose and brass adaptor (the two on the left in the pic) it was blowing 120psi. With the snap-on hose (in the middle in the pic) its blowing 160psi. Both using the same gauge there. For the OP, i hope the Stihl rep can straighten things out for you, that saw should really rip, i wouldn't give up on it yet.
I bought the Snap On one too. It had bad Scrader valve at first but now its accurate.
 
Don’t think so but His was showing 120 w/ adaptor same as mine. Without it should be 150
 
Was just trying to rule out compression as the problem to work down the process of elimination tree. Its also tougher when you don't have a pile of saws to just pull a good part from to test. I have a pretty much new carb for a 200t that i swap in first to test any poor running 200t prior to looking for other problems. The OP has tried different bars and said the bar is oiling fine. The spark plug is greyish so that looks fine...if it was flooding you would have seepage out the muffler cover. I really can't think of anything else except for ignition (coil, wiring problem), but if it 4-strokes fine, do some ignition problems occur only under heavy load? I know they can change timing according to the rpm. If all else fails, splash a little seafoam in the mix and cut a few tanks worth
 
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