Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Comes in a gallon jug, but reusable it says.

Check out this Poulan S25CV drum sprocket, looks like it's gone way too far for a JB weld patch... lol

There’s some maintenance challenged people out there for sure!

View attachment 728671

Economy minded user. Kind of like the rim drives that have the hub teeth cut through.
 
So I finally got the wheel off of the 4200. The key is intact. Found some rough patches on the flywheel under the pawls I’m going to put a file to it and smooth it up a bit. Not sure if that’s what’s causing the rope to kick back out of the starter housing when it pops. Now with the starter housing the actual pulley how much wiggle room should be there when the bolt is in it? Mine moves up and down a little more than 1/8 of an inch. Normal movement? Or is there supposed to be some kind of spacer other than the thin flat washer that’s there? I believe something is causing the starter pawls to stay engaged possibly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
c22362a3f2a773c268d4e8ffe8bab234.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you have the old type starter dawgs, then yes they will catch, the newer style are notched


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s probably the first time that the flywheel has been on of the powerhead. It is the old style pawls.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Comes in a gallon jug, but reusable it says.

Check out this Poulan S25CV drum sprocket, looks like it's gone way too far for a JB weld patch... lol

There’s some maintenance challenged people out there for sure!

View attachment 728671

What's wrong with it? It still has one tooth!
 
Hey Nate, you’re up late!

That’s a Bosch CD module, same as the Stihl 045/056, Dolmar 113/153, Husky 285/480, Ducati and others.

Never saw a new OEM for sale, & most have already failed due to a crappy capacitor and/or the SCR trigger transistor.

However, there’s still some aftermarket Taiwan units left that worked well, from fleabay via Saegenspezi in Germany. It takes two longer mounting screws, the kill wire has to be extended & reterminated, & you may have to grind the OD of the mounting plate to get it to fit right...I know I did on the pair I got, Lol.

Also, look up & read the thread “Success!!!” by foggysail for possibly repairing that one you have. I had one out of three bad modules that actually made spark again after the surgery & capacitor addition. Nothing to lose but a cheap $2 capacitor & an hour of time. Neither of these fixes changes the timing at all.

The third workaround does change the timing, and uses an external Stihl trigger & your existing coil cut loose from the module.

I’ll post a couple of comparison pics of the plate advancement required to run it...about impossible to advance it that far unless you make a new mounting plate or run keyless on the flywheel. Left pic is with the coils lined up, the right is with the mounting slots aligned, the Saegenspezi is the lower one, on the saw.

Plug wire is a standard 5mm copper strand, just screw the old one out & a new piece in & cut it to length.

Edit- there is a new Husky 285 Bosch CDI on fleabay, for $180, lol

View attachment 724740 View attachment 724741

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it! So as it turns out, I think the module itself is actually good, it just needs a new ignition wire soldered onto the the piece that broke off near the base of the module. So here is another question, do you happen to know what size or kind of wire matches up to this module so I can pick up some to solder the two together? Thanks for the help as always!!!
 
So I pulled the spring someone had stuck a spacer behind the plastic disk. Put it back together and lubed the spring and put the starter housing on and pulled it a few times got it to start. I’ll post a video for you here in a few just excuse the whiney kid in the background.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top