Cutting speed old vs new saws

[md1486]

im asking myself if new saw with lower cc can outcut older saw with more cc.
Let say a ms261CM compare to a husky 266xp.
Im asking because I have 7-8 saws and im thinking about selling a few to keep small (35cc), medium(50cc) and bigger one (65cc)

I dont have one in the 50cc range and was thinking about the ms261, but is this new saw will perform better (cut faster) than my old 266, who will become “useless” compare to my new 261
Thx

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Wood size, bar length, and most importantly how sharp is the chain. Both saws with sharp chains in 24" log, that 266 will win. Cutting small 4-12 inch wood with sharp chains may be about the same, but 50cc saw is much lighter. Too many variables.

 

[computeruser]

It depends on a lot of factors. Bar buried, 266/24” will out-cut 261/24”, but they might be closer at 16” or in even smaller wood. But at some point the exercise becomes silly - they will both cut a pencil in the same amount of time, right? Does that make them the same?

Having owned a 266 and having run a 261 (and owning many 346s, some of which are ported and some stock) I would not consider a 266 to be interchangeable with a modern 50cc saw.

35/12”, 50/16”, 65/20” sounds like a great setup for three saws. Each will have a job to do that it is well suited for.

 

[NSEric]

50 cc saws are the norm around my place as the trees aren't real big so you don't need a big saw often.
I'd keep the 266 as it will out preform the 261 in large wood but in 10-15 inch wood like I cut all the time there's not much difference other than weight.
Like the post above 35/12", 50/16", 65/20", if the woods too big for the 16 inch bar grab the big saw.

 

[kenton.a.frank]

Wait aren’t we comparing a 50cc new saw vs a 66cc older saw? I don’t think I’d even attempt to slap a 24in bar on a ms261... more of an apples to apples is ms362 to 266


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[Brent Nowell]

Given the material is equal, chains are the same etc and we are comparing only saw engines, one with 4hp@7000rpm and a newer saw that has 4hp@10000rpm, the newer one will cut faster than the old. This is of course if you are cutting a wood thickness/density that allows that saw to reach its peak hp. I am just giving a hypothetical situation.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I can not imagine a saw smaller than a XP 372 or even the 460 Extra Torque as these saws are true feather weights. However it has been awhile since I have worked outside of California. I realize that the trees in the rest of the world are often small so small saws are often considered, but have no idea why. I like the MS 660 as it is very lite, but yet can actually cut a small log. Most of the time I lug around 105 to 110 cc saws.

The MS 660 runs a fairly fast chain speed, but the MS 070 runs a fairly slow speed so which cuts faster? The MS 070 which I have two cuts almost twice as much wood as the MS 060 hands down why. The MS 060 has more raw power than the MS 070 so what is the deal. The big part is chain speed. The slower chain speed is much more gentle on chains usually requiring less attention. When conditions are just right the MS 060 with a chisel bit chain can really fly through a lot of chips. With really dry hard wood the slower chain speed makes all the difference. I also have a couple of Stihl 056s one with a big bore. They have a noticeable slower chain speed. Aside from the fact they are a more simple easy to work on design, but more heavy they carry a big punch compared to many newer saws. I almost always cut a production type firewood operation. So I am not saddled with a bunch of moving around to get a log cut up into rounds. Often I just walk up to logs and have my helper move the logs around with a tractor or winch so just want to get the rounds as fast as possible. Thanks

 

[sb47]

I have used a ms290 farm boss for over a decade now, great saw.
I recently got a ms261c a few months ago. The 261 is a smaller cc and a lighter saw then the 290. Here is what I noticed between the two.
Both run the same bar and chain set up so there equal as far as that goes.
Both cut the same except the 290 being a little heavier will cut different. The heavier weight lets the 290 cut with the weight of the saw doing most of the down force compared to the 261 witch is lighter so I have to physically apply more down force to get it to cut at the same speed as the 290.
I like them both but I will grab the 261 over the 290 simply because it's lighter and is easier on my back when I'm doing a lot of cutting.
The 261 has been my go to saw ever since I got it. I like it a little better.

 

[Huskybill]

I think a 266se/ a 266xp with the over speed governor in the carb plugged and a 8 tooth rim with a 16”/18” bar with the 72LP saw chain sharpened correctly with the gullet hogged out, will out cut any saw in its class. Sharpen the chain razor sharp and focus on the gullet for the exiting chip clearance. I don’t use that much down force I let the saw cut on its own mainly. If the chain is done correctly she get attacks the wood. If your not getting big chips being exhausted make two or three passes on the rakers. I ran my saws with them setup like this for many decades. Except the 2100 I ran .404” chain.

I think the 266se/266xp is one of the best saws husky ever designed.

We do have some big hardwoods in the northeast we don’t hear much about them most go for rough sawn lumber for the cabinet shops. I cut access roads in the forest so the loggers had access for a timber sale.

 

[md1486]

Ok thanks guys. I have a couple 66 to 70 cc saws (2x266xp,268xp, echo cs6700). Maybe I’ll sell one or two to fund a 50cc chainsaw.

 

[Huskybill]

The 266 & 268 should do anything you need done. If weight is the problem?
Are you looking to go used or new.? Husky or?. My 353 husky impressed me. But a 65cc saw maybe better depending on what bar length your going to run and cut. We can cut down on weight with a shorter bar with a more powerful powerhead. The 266/268 will handle a 24” bar.

I never thought about power, weight and bar length much. When purchasing a new saw I go to my local husky dealer tell him what I need to cut and he hooks me up. He’s an ex land clearer/logger. I go in there and ask him what’s the hot ticket for a saw today.

 

[md1486]

The 266 & 268 should do anything you need done. If weight is the problem?
Are you looking to go used or new.? Husky or?. My 353 husky impressed me. But a 65cc saw maybe better depending on what bar length your going to run and cut. We can cut down on weight with a shorter bar with a more powerful powerhead. The 266/268 will handle a 24” bar.

I never thought about power, weight and bar length much. When purchasing a new saw I go to my local husky dealer tell him what I need to cut and he hooks me up. He’s an ex land clearer/logger. I go in there and ask him what’s the hot ticket for a saw today.

Well the wood I cut is quite small 12-16”, so maybe I wanted a lighter saw. But those make the job perfectly fine. I also have a 034 but shes not a good runner. I think Im finding a reason to buy another saw haha. I always say let buy another one, I’ll sell some. But the fact is that I have almost never sold a saw..lol

 

[champion221elite]

Here is my comparison of old vs. new with similar size equipment. I have an old Homelite Super XL Auto and a newer Husqvarna 555. Both are 60cc class saws, but the 555 revs a good bit higher. The Super XL has gobs of torque.

Given similar 3/8" pitch chains, the 555 will cut faster. However, you can really lean on the Super XL and it just keeps on eating. Cant say one is better than the other. I like the new stuff, but there is something about old Magnesium. The 555 feels a couple pounds lighter than the Super XL which is a nice bonus.

 

[Husky Man]

I bought my 266XP New in about '91, and I will NEVER part with that saw.
There is a Reason that I have named it " Old Reliable", it is Still pulling it's weight heating our home.

I have since added a 353, and have come to appreciate the value of a Good 50cc class saw, but there is no one saw that would cover all my needs.

The 3120xp is a Great saw, but I haven't been able to find a 14" bar for it yet , and the 36" B&C is a bit much for Limbing

My 23 Compact (38cc) Top Handle is a Handy little saw, the 353, 266XP and the 3120XP, are about the minimum for my needs, but a 390XP or 395XP would be very useful saws to have, and what CAD collection is Complete without a 372XP???

Hi, my name is "Doug" and I have a Problem


Doug

 

[Skeans]

I bought my 266XP New in about '91, and I will NEVER part with that saw.
There is a Reason that I have named it " Old Reliable", it is Still pulling it's weight heating our home.

I have since added a 353, and have come to appreciate the value of a Good 50cc class saw, but there is no one saw that would cover all my needs.

The 3120xp is a Great saw, but I haven't been able to find a 14" bar for it yet , and the 36" B&C is a bit much for Limbing

My 23 Compact (38cc) Top Handle is a Handy little saw, the 353, 266XP and the 3120XP, are about the minimum for my needs, but a 390XP or 395XP would be very useful saws to have, and what CAD collection is Complete without a 372XP???

Hi, my name is "Doug" and I have a Problem


Doug

A 36 is a bit much limbing and bucking? Maybe in our small wood now but how often is a 3120 really needed anymore other then to go down in some sob hole normally with a jack or a set and another saw for limbing.


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[Husky Man]

Skeans, I use the 3120XP for Milling, a 390XP or 395XP would be Plenty for my normal firewooding.

I am still new to CSMing, but Ihave a 60" Bar for it, and plan to eventually build some Dining room tables with it.

A 3120XP, for Firewood, Overkill, A 3120XP for Milling, PRICELESS



Doug

 

[Marshy]

...
Im asking because I have 7-8 saws and im thinking about selling a few...

Whuaaaaat?