Falling pics 11/25/09

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think I may be a little serious for that post, but I usually run 11018 on equipment repair with some preheat and postheat. Unless I know what it is. Too much high strength steel in equipment for me to accidentally undermatch.

Most high strength and tool steel is welded with under matching filler.
And honestly it was more of a joke then a fix.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I am no welder, 7018 covers just about everything for equipment repair, unless yer working on impliments buckets, grapples etc.

7018, should be stronger then even high tensile used in machines, 11018 as about on par with cutting edges and the like, and makes a good go between the hard edges and relatively soft structure.

The real issue with that boom, is just a simple weld probably isn't going to last, that whole joint needs cut off and rebuilt
 
It's been back together for months now. I did all the grinding and hired a guy to burn it up. Took him about 45 minutes. I didn't have anywhere to plug in a welder of my own on this one. I broke it once before years ago in huge timber and the landowner had a 220 plug in his shed and I did it there.
 
shame to see that red oak timber trashed like that. I don't think my man parts are big enough to tackle that puzzle!

Hard on the equipment too. When it started freezing the balls wouldn't go back and in order to not wreck chains constantly I had to buck them and come back around with the forwarder and pick them up. I've got some good videos too if I'd ever put a YouTube channel together.

View attachment 725471
View attachment 725472

View attachment 725473
 
I’m not here to start a welding argument, but there’s an awful lot of T-1 and A514/572/656 grades of steel used in modern equipment, plenty of 4130 and 4340 too. 7018 is a great rod, and it works well on most mild steels, but I burn a lot of 8018-B2 and 11018 and use a lot of ER80-SD2 TIG wire in our shop, with a fair amount of pre and post heat.

It’s not that 7018 won’t work, and I probably weld it more than any other rod, but I’m leery of welding and severly undermatching grade 100 material. Sometimes it’s fine because the manufacturer used chromoly or A572 for abrasion resistance. Anyway, I weld way too damn much and probably should have just not said anything.
 
Yer all good Catbuster, just T1 ar100 etc etc etc is fairly expensive and made more for abrasion resistance then anything, So I don't see manufactures using it anywhere its not absolutely needed, even then They really don't use enough,

Chrom Moly alloys aren't really all that hard, just tough and flexible.

Gotta remember they don't really need to concern themselves with weight, as a heavy machine generally is a good thing, so they can get away with just using more mild steel vs a thinner but much more expensive alloyed or high carbon version

When in doubt spark test it.

Also most of the machines I've had the misfortune to weld on, the steel has been fairly soft, there is a notable diferance grinding tool steels and chrome molly steels vs plain ole mild steel
 
Back when the machine/welding part of the shop was way oversized for the operation we had we took in a lot of motorsport work, and welded a lot of thin 4130 tubing with the Dynasty 200 I had, and still have, or the other TIG machines we ran for roll cages/chassis. It always blew my mind how strong that stuff was but how brittle the heat affected zone was. Not the weld itself, even undermatching with ER70 wire we still had all our failures (for destructive testing/welder qualification) as cracks in the HAZ. But as soon as you normalized it it didn’t matter if you welded it with ER70, ER80 or 309 it was all good.

I don’t like to machine Chromoly either, but that’s for another time.
 
I cut and strapped everything up and had another hammer to knock it all down..it went over slow and I was able to buck the majority of it.
They're "vertical snaps" "snap straps" "snap cuts" "compression snaps" "drop snaps" "vertical straps". When you say you "cut and strapped everything up" then it's not going to make sense to most readers without further explanation.
 
I got exactly what he meant. I personally do not like leaving straps because it adds extra wood to break unless for some reason the whole mess is going to go while you're under it and you have to leave one. You leave too much and start building a teepee you can get in trouble in a hurry and your day is going from bad to ********. That and bucking gets to be a real bich and you're kicking yourself.
 
You’re defiantly right about the straps and the wood they hold..I got lucky on those because they’re basically standing straight and the bullet I had lined up would easily do the job..and no one likes making man made teepees out of 1oo+ ft gouty cedars.
 
My friend and I started cutting a spruce stand halfway to the cabin. Just two guys with a pulp hook. Gonna try to rig up the truck with a chain or mount a winch. Great day :)

A lot of stuff to do here still. Many more trees on the other side of the road. We’re gonna be having fun here for a while :chainsaw::muscle:
 

Attachments

  • 49AEF434-4359-4323-B8B0-4496F3ACF869.jpeg
    49AEF434-4359-4323-B8B0-4496F3ACF869.jpeg
    785.6 KB · Views: 61
  • 517ACAB8-7CE0-4CB2-8716-FE39079A18D8.jpeg
    517ACAB8-7CE0-4CB2-8716-FE39079A18D8.jpeg
    6.7 MB · Views: 62
  • 43E37FD6-D08B-4E0A-A305-18D70D17B88E.jpeg
    43E37FD6-D08B-4E0A-A305-18D70D17B88E.jpeg
    4 MB · Views: 60
  • D40A9209-A116-422D-A354-D3BC3FC19C9C.jpeg
    D40A9209-A116-422D-A354-D3BC3FC19C9C.jpeg
    6.1 MB · Views: 63

Latest posts

Back
Top