Just wondering what kind to get.i want a kit with the 10mm for the newer saws also.been looking at the mightymac 5300.
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Compression tester
- Thread starter brad ruch
- Start date
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Terrence Jefferson
ArboristSite Operative
I have a snap on compression tester. I like it and it has different hoses for different size plugs. I have it cause I use it at work on small engines and such. The only problem I have had with it is the shrader valves kept blowing the springs out of them when I was testing my saws . Not sure if it was a bad batch or what. We have the same tester at work and use it on everything.
They do make nice ones.we have a snap on guy comes every friday.but I really don't wanna spend 200-300 bucks for one.lol
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Terrence Jefferson
ArboristSite Operative
I hear that. I beat my dealer up and got it for 150.
you might review this thread about compression testing and testers. (and schrader valves and their location for small engine compression gauges)
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
I've built some homemade compression testers for small engines with good reliable results. If a small engine reads low compression I have a back-up compression tester to confirm such. I've seen instances where a guy would do a chainsaw rebuild due to their testing gauge not being accurate and when they got finished with their new overhaul their gauge would then read even lower.
I've seen quite a few chainsaws that would not start or run and reported as low compression due to guys testing with a automotive compression gauge or their testing gauge not designed for small CC engines or the gauge not reading accurate and compression not the issue with the saw not starting or running correctly.. They usually would say, I tested MY compression gauge on my air compression and it reads same as the air tank gauge.
Usually one of the first things I check on a chainsaw BEFORE I take a compression reading is remove the muffler and take a look at the cylinder/piston. I've seen saw engines have good high compression but the piston was severely damaged. (the saw was not going to run much longer due to the cylinder/piston being consumed)
Then if a piston/cylinder looks ok and a saw starts and runs/cuts good I might not even use my compression tester. I've seen small saws run/start and cut good with 80psi and would normally be labeled as bad due to the compression and the saw just needed a fuel line or carb kit or other minor things.
I cannot find any info about a mityvac 5300 compression tester you mentioned. ?????????
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
I've built some homemade compression testers for small engines with good reliable results. If a small engine reads low compression I have a back-up compression tester to confirm such. I've seen instances where a guy would do a chainsaw rebuild due to their testing gauge not being accurate and when they got finished with their new overhaul their gauge would then read even lower.
I've seen quite a few chainsaws that would not start or run and reported as low compression due to guys testing with a automotive compression gauge or their testing gauge not designed for small CC engines or the gauge not reading accurate and compression not the issue with the saw not starting or running correctly.. They usually would say, I tested MY compression gauge on my air compression and it reads same as the air tank gauge.
Usually one of the first things I check on a chainsaw BEFORE I take a compression reading is remove the muffler and take a look at the cylinder/piston. I've seen saw engines have good high compression but the piston was severely damaged. (the saw was not going to run much longer due to the cylinder/piston being consumed)
Then if a piston/cylinder looks ok and a saw starts and runs/cuts good I might not even use my compression tester. I've seen small saws run/start and cut good with 80psi and would normally be labeled as bad due to the compression and the saw just needed a fuel line or carb kit or other minor things.
I cannot find any info about a mityvac 5300 compression tester you mentioned. ?????????
It's a mv5300you might review this thread about compression testing and testers. (and schrader valves and their location for small engine compression gauges)
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/
I've built some homemade compression testers for small engines with good reliable results. If a small engine reads low compression I have a back-up compression tester to confirm such. I've seen instances where a guy would do a chainsaw rebuild due to their testing gauge not being accurate and when they got finished with their new overhaul their gauge would then read even lower.
I've seen quite a few chainsaws that would not start or run and reported as low compression due to guys testing with a automotive compression gauge or their testing gauge not designed for small CC engines or the gauge not reading accurate. They usually would say, I tested the compression gauge on my air compression and it reads same as the air tank gauge.
I cannot find any info about a mityvac 5300 compression tester. ?????????
Usually one of the first things I check on a chainsaw BEFORE I take a compression reading is remove the muffler and take a look at the cylinder/piston. I've seen saw engines have good high compression but the piston was severely damaged. (the saw was not going to run much longer due to the cylinder/piston being consumed)
Then if a piston/cylinder looks ok and a saw starts and runs/cuts good I might not even use my compression tester. I've seen small saws run/start and cut good with 80psi and would normally be labeled as bad due to the compression and the saw just needed a fuel line or carb kit or other minor things.
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Joel D'Angelo
ArboristSite Operative
Sears craftsman is a decent tester. Just sayin..
I was going to buy the 10mm hose for my Snap-On gauge, but they want $49.95 for it.
[emoji23][emoji23] I year that.
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The proper adapter is also in that link I posted above, has the schrader valve right in the end, all the products on that page ate 2 stroke gear. The adapter alone is $15.
My first tester had no schrader, and got low readings on a 025. So cross tested it on a near new MS170 with same result. Then found multiple threads on this. Paid the cost for a decent one. Don't think there's any good Chinese website ones from what I've looked through
I bought one in case you're on commission.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have a Lisle, it isn't accurate or repeatable. Got an Actron at the Usual Suspects store and have been a lot happier.
I bought one in case you're on commission.
Nope, not an agent or associated but ordered one for myself from the Canadian division here in Ontario Canada. Not much more for a new compression tester than what Snap On wants for the adapter, will see how good it is as I have two others with 14 mm thread but not one yet for 10 mm threads.
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
Occam’s razor, best answer.
All the Lisle testers I have seen don`t have a 10 mm threaded adapter with the Scrader valve in the tip. Does yours have it? The Lisle testers are commonly available around here at auto supply houses but are generally meant for automotive applications.
