Low compression on my new Stihl MS362

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Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.
 
Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.

There are as many answers as there are people to ask. And this is not a jab at Lowell.
 
They already essentially have a tach. The Mtronic adjusts to get the maximum rpm, so it knows how fast the engine is turning. They just don’t have a display for the user.
The display really is not needed for an experienced hand with a chainsaw. If it’s cutting like a scalded dog all of a sudden, shut it down immediately, it’s about to scorch itself into oblivion! If what you see coming off the chain looks more like dust than chips and you really have to press hard to get it to cut, shut it down immediately, again, you’re about to destroy your beloved saw. Your ears and eyes along with a little experience will save you a lot of money and down time when applied properly. The tac idea is a tool used for initial setup and tune, in my opinion, ymmv.
 
Can we all vote in a new rule for this sight. If you get a new saw do not check the compression to get a base line reading for your info.. Just cut some wood............. Problems --- Take it to a dealer-Page 30 and Cyberspace is almost full:crazy2:
 
The display really is not needed for an experienced hand with a chainsaw. If it’s cutting like a scalded dog all of a sudden, shut it down immediately, it’s about to scorch itself into oblivion! If what you see coming off the chain looks more like dust than chips and you really have to press hard to get it to cut, shut it down immediately, again, you’re about to destroy your beloved saw. Your ears and eyes along with a little experience will save you a lot of money and down time when applied properly. The tac idea is a tool used for initial setup and tune, in my opinion, ymmv.

The Trail Tech Tachometer/hour meter won't work on a M-tronic is my understanding. The M-tronic's ignition gives inconsistent reading from what I've read. I've never tested it on M-Tronic's so I don't know for sure... this wasn't my idea I copied it from others. I put the trail tach on my saw because my dad cut firewood at different elevation and not all Ethanol free fuel is the same, plus its nice to know how many hours are on the saw. It's also nice to check the tune on your saw once in awhile and you know how the saw is running in the cut without a doubt. But in my case I didn't need a tach to tell me my saw has problems but I'm glad I have the hour meter on it now. My dad was a logger and I've been around a lot of fallers ...most never tune their saw themselves, they drop them off at the shops when they notice problems as grizz55chew stated. My Dad is all about chain speed and I haven't got chance to cut with him for awhile and I was hoping to learn something from him the next time. I don't cut all the time only a few time a year with him. That's the main reason I installed the tach was as a learning tool to learn from guys like my dad and Grizz55chew. It just made sense for guys like me to learn consistently what chains work better, know for sure how the saw runs. My dad cut with mainly 63 gauge semi or full skip, to be honest most of time I ran his saws never really have much experience with chain selection. It was never one of those things we talked about until now. I saw this tach idea on someone else saw and I thought it was good idea because of the statement above.
 
The Trail Tech Tachometer/hour meter won't work on a M-tronic is my understanding. The M-tronic's ignition gives inconsistent reading from what I've read. I've never tested it on M-Tronic's so I don't know for sure... this wasn't my idea I copied it from others. I put the trail tach on my saw because my dad cut firewood at different elevation and not all Ethanol free fuel is the same, plus its nice to know how many hours are on the saw. It's also nice to check the tune on your saw once in awhile and you know how the saw is running in the cut without a doubt. But in my case I didn't need a tach to tell me my saw has problems but I'm glad I have the hour meter on it now. My dad was a logger and I've been around a lot of fallers ...most never tune their saw themselves, they drop them off at the shops when they notice problems as grizz55chew stated. My Dad is all about chain speed and I haven't got chance to cut with him for awhile and I was hoping to learn something from him the next time. I don't cut all the time only a few time a year with him. That's the main reason I installed the tach was as a learning tool to learn from guys like my dad and Grizz55chew. It just made sense for guys like me to learn consistently what chains work better, know for sure how the saw runs. My dad cut with mainly 63 gauge semi or full skip, to be honest most of time I ran his saws never really have much experience with chain selection. It was never one of those things we talked about until now. I saw this tach idea on someone else saw and I thought it was good idea because of the statement above.

You have no need to justify your choice of using a tach or not...you’ll always get a load of “...I’m more experienced than you and I can tell by how my saw smells and you’re a newb etc etc” comments when u ask for help. I was once told by an old boy that I wasn’t the man he was because I used a saw with a chain brake...apparently real men don’t need or use such saws

I think you have coped very well with the frustrated doubters in this thread.

I would also never fit a tach on a saw..but only because I’m lazy
 
Talked to my stihl guy today and ran this 362 saga by him. Lowell has forgotten more about saws than most of us know. He has not had any 362's come back with issues except for an over heating problem with the gas boiling. They figured out it was old,low octane gas in that one. He did think 110 was low on the compression till i told him about the new saw on the shelf that had the same. His opinion was that the saw needed more run time to break it in. He did think that 40 hours to break it in was a bit far fetched. Not related but i asked him about them not being allowed to give the box with a new saw. he never heard of such a thing. back to work men.
Still say the compression is wrong.
 
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