McCulloch Chain Saws

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Here are the two axes that usually accompany my MACs. The little Husky is for chopping out a stuck saw - thankfully it is seldom used for that purpose. The 5# Plumb is for pounding wedges.

View attachment 731131

I sorted through dozens of handles for the Plumb. I couldn't find a decent straight handle so I used a regular axe handle. I cut it to length and serrated the end for a better grip. The notch just above the serrations is where I accidentally hit it with an idling PM800 - a reminder that any moving chain can hurt you bad. I am debating how to best color/flag it (so I can see it better in the woods) without messing up its good looks. Current thinking is a hole in the handle like the Husky with some blue flagging tape.

Ron
nice mr ron i like those!! i once had three of my macs stuck in the same tree wasnt a very good day was glad i took 4 of them..i think you should leave them the way they are

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
nice mr ron i like those!! i once had three of my macs stuck in the same tree wasnt a very good day was glad i took 4 of them..i think you should leave them the way they are

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Thanks, but if I leave them the way they are I will likely leave them where they are - somewhere next to some tree in the woods. Ron
 
Back to MACs. I have the day off and it has rained all day. So I have spent most of it cleaning gutters, getting rid of leaf piles and cleaning the garage; all of which means I am tired and lazy at the moment, thus this question - does anyone here know the DL count for .404 on a McCulloch 42" hard nose bar (one of the newer ones that are black with McCulloch in yellow). The best I can tell the part number is 86234.

If not, I will rest up, remove the chain and count it 3 or 4 times until I get a repeat number.

Thanks,
Ron
 
Ron, Did I not send you a bunch of manuals and in one of those was the DL count for each bar? Or would you like me to take the bar off the 125 here and bring it tomorrow? I am working on it right now but don't think I will have it ready for tomorrow. Accually I have it off working on it. I just have to throw it in the truck.

Brian
 
Finally got the SP125C back together after a new intake gasket, bottom crankcase gasket, oiler housing gasket (along with patching/sealing random holes in oiler housing....), impulse line, fuel line/filter and not to mention tightening various screws and bolts that were pretty loose all around the dang thing. The last thing I did was replace the PTO side crank seal which was an SKF seal I ordered that was previously mentioned a few pages ago. The old one was a real pain to get out but I got it removed in about 45 minutes with a lot of patience lol.. I went to install the new one (which was nearly identical to the old one) - only difference was the SKF was slightly taller (thicker). It did not want to seat very well... I usually cover these things in grease before I install them but this took quite a bit of work to seat it. I placed two similar sized crank seals over it and an impact socket over that and started to tap it in with a hammer. Before long, the seal began to dent and bend because it was getting caught on the housing where the crank sits. 3/4 of it would start to seat and the other 1/4 would not move in at all. It was scraping off the blue/green material from around the outside of the crank seal. It seemed almost too big of a diameter on the seal to seat properly in the crankcase. I attempted to get the dent(s) out of the outer ring of the seal with a hammer and re-attempted. After using the old seals, the impact socket and some seriously aggressive blows from the hammer, I was able to seat the seal properly and tap the uneven surfaces in with a flat, non marring brass punch. Seems to run decent now!

Only thing it really needs is a stronger trigger spring.. I can push it forward and slow down the idle (and that's with the idle adjustment screw all the way out).

Attached is the photos of the crank seal install. Note the bluish/green material scraped off. Never had such an issue installing a crank seal like that! Usually have a lot more trouble removing them!
 

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Well cut alot of trees with McCulloch power yesterday only 1 crappy photo just got too busy and forgot all about getting any more.
20190420_083004.jpg
Yeah is crappy Haha my good friend dropping his 1st tree with his 700 he also has a 10-10 and a 250 the 250 wouldn't oil so it never got to play.

I ran my 700 two 7-10s and the 800 my 60 dollar 7-10 is a real ripper like way ahead of all the others it runs the fixed jet tilly carb it just monsters through the wood huge torque it can drop way out of the revs and just keeps pulling.

16 to 40 inch macros and fir trees only one incident....20190421_082731.jpg
7-10 gave me a mac tattoo lol not quite like Kevin's (2broke) mac tattoo lol but it's a keeper
 
Finally got the SP125C back together after a new intake gasket, bottom crankcase gasket, oiler housing gasket (along with patching/sealing random holes in oiler housing....), impulse line, fuel line/filter and not to mention tightening various screws and bolts that were pretty loose all around the dang thing. The last thing I did was replace the PTO side crank seal which was an SKF seal I ordered that was previously mentioned a few pages ago. The old one was a real pain to get out but I got it removed in about 45 minutes with a lot of patience lol.. I went to install the new one (which was nearly identical to the old one) - only difference was the SKF was slightly taller (thicker). It did not want to seat very well... I usually cover these things in grease before I install them but this took quite a bit of work to seat it. I placed two similar sized crank seals over it and an impact socket over that and started to tap it in with a hammer. Before long, the seal began to dent and bend because it was getting caught on the housing where the crank sits. 3/4 of it would start to seat and the other 1/4 would not move in at all. It was scraping off the blue/green material from around the outside of the crank seal. It seemed almost too big of a diameter on the seal to seat properly in the crankcase. I attempted to get the dent(s) out of the outer ring of the seal with a hammer and re-attempted. After using the old seals, the impact socket and some seriously aggressive blows from the hammer, I was able to seat the seal properly and tap the uneven surfaces in with a flat, non marring brass punch. Seems to run decent now!

Only thing it really needs is a stronger trigger spring.. I can push it forward and slow down the idle (and that's with the idle adjustment screw all the way out).

Attached is the photos of the crank seal install. Note the bluish/green material scraped off. Never had such an issue installing a crank seal like that! Usually have a lot more trouble removing them!
Aaron, i ran into an idle issue once. It was the small screw on the trigger itself. I cannot remember which way i went but it was doing the same thing. I could lower the idle by pushing the trigger. On some mcculloch models that screw is actually the idle adjustment. Its also used to set your trigger lock or high idle set. If you have that little screw try adjusting it out, id say.
 
Well cut alot of trees with McCulloch power yesterday only 1 crappy photo just got too busy and forgot all about getting any more.
View attachment 731273
Yeah is crappy Haha my good friend dropping his 1st tree with his 700 he also has a 10-10 and a 250 the 250 wouldn't oil so it never got to play.

I ran my 700 two 7-10s and the 800 my 60 dollar 7-10 is a real ripper like way ahead of all the others it runs the fixed jet tilly carb it just monsters through the wood huge torque it can drop way out of the revs and just keeps pulling.

16 to 40 inch macros and fir trees only one incident....View attachment 731274
7-10 gave me a mac tattoo lol not quite like Kevin's (2broke) mac tattoo lol but it's a keeper
Jethro, dang that looks painful. You cut your pants the other day....burned yourself now. Maybe get a safer saw and send yours my way. Haha. Be careful bud.
 
Jethro, dang that looks painful. You cut your pants the other day....burned yourself now. Maybe get a safer saw and send yours my way. Haha. Be careful bud.

Haha I love that 7-10 really like the riged 10 series vs the antivibe. Yeah I just reached down to pull a stick out and hiss F##k you B$$%% and then you stupid idiot. It's not to bad now untle it gets bumped
 
So i had a tough fix today. I prevailed but geesh. Anyone ever change the clutch shoes on a 125? This is the 4 shoe clutch with taper fit and key way. Took some patience but i got it. So what happened was the chain would not stop moving. I stopped and went to the bench. Turns out the "cairrage" that holds the shoes actually broke. Kinda weird really. i had a used clutch with worn out shoes but the rest was good. Swapped all parts and made 1 good clutch out of 2 bad ones. That spring that keeps it together is a real bugger now let me tell ya. But its back together and awesome again. What a monster saw. Ive fitted a cp125 with a 26" long bar that has 1/2" pitch chain on it. It came off a old mac gear drive. I used a oregon 6 spline clutch drum and a 6 tooth rim sprocket. Lots of torque. Looks like a beast with that big chain. Its fun though.
 
Jethro,I had a similar situation back over 25 yrs.ago.I was welding a frame up for a lawn roller & I bent down to pick something up & branded my bicep.It was a perfect triangle.The neighbor lady was here picking up her kid that we got off the bus for her & she heard me let out some cuss words.Apparently she came from a family that didn't swear.I'm sure she heard some new ones that day.Lol
Ed
 
NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Sorry no pictures today. Ran equipment most of the day loading the deuce and sorting and moving wood. Brian and I got four deuce loads out. He did a little cutting but another MAC bar of his took a hit from one of the bulldozed piles so he took over the truck driving for the last three loads.

We overcame a few challenges today - a fully loaded deuce stuck in the mud with no winch point in reach. A 95 hp CAT 299D2 with a 3 to 4000# 16' hickory in its jaws helped it out. Later with Brian gone on a run, I got an off-brand saw stuck in the base of a tall downed cherry. The CAT 299D2 was two hills away but there was a nice 125hp D6K XL bulldozer just sitting 50 feet away. Same little key fired it up and made short work of freeing my saw. I could get used to running these Caterpillars - but unless they knock two zeros off the price I will stick with chainsaws.

FWIW MAC lists the 86234 hard nose bar as both 42" and 44". DL count for .404" with a 7 tooth is 122. With a standard sprocket (presumably an 8 tooth), it is 123 and oddly 124 for the Speed Mac chain. The brochure I was reading listed 4 chain types : a Pro Mac with a round cutter profile, a Speed Mac with a semi-chisel profile, a Super Pro with a full chisel profile for a round file and a Super Pro full chisel profile for a square file.

I am happy to have my favorite 800 back from Brian. He installed a timesert to hold the plug. I can't wait to run it again even though I am trying hard to wrap up the cutting season.


Ron
 
Ron, I used to do a lot with my Macs but since I moved last year and don’t burn wood anymore (except a little bit in my shop) that hobby has kind of been sidelined. I really enjoy the weekly reports of your (and Brian’s) exploits. I guess I am living my chainsaw life vicariously through you.
 
So did you move out to the country to get away from all that hustle and bustle?
Yeah it was pretty congested where I was at LOL. Actually I moved close to a small town but still in the country. I have a little more land but on a busier road.
 
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