FarmerTec MS250 short block on a MS210?

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PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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Anyone had success doing this? Advertised to work according to HLS. Doesn't in my particular case. Bolts right up as one would expect but appears to have serious ignition issues due to the crank keyway possibly not being compatible with the timing of a MS210 flywheel and coil?

TIA for any enlightenment or related experiences with the 250 kit on 021's or MS210's.
 
Are you sure your model numbers are correct? The MS210 and MS260 are completely different saws and are not interchangeable in any way. Did you mean MS250? If so, then from what I have read and seen, they should be compatible. The engine block on both saws are supposed to be the same...just a different bore and piston diameter. Maybe the experts can jump in with more info! I'll be really interested to learn something here as well!
 
I’ve used a oem 025 cylinder in a ez start MS210 case. I did have to use the MS210 module as the 025 module wouldn’t fit. Never used the farmertec cylinder.


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Interesting. I have the exact same project in my near future as I bought a MS210 that has been straight gassed. I have a Farmer Tech MS250 piston and cylinder I had planned on putting in it.

As a general rule I am not a fan of the aftermarket piston and cylinder’s for the clamshell saws. In my experience the squish has been so wide that the saws never perform as they should. I picked up this straight gassed MS210C for $25 with bar and chain. I figured if I can make a runner out of it then it can sit next to my boiler and be used for trimming over long logs.
 
Just finished reading the threads listed below and ran across something that may be in play here.
Aftermarket MS250 Short Block Issues

Didn't notice the oiler rod issue but the engine could still be sitting just enough higher in the housing to affect the relationship between the flywheel and the coil. Whether it would be enough to cause my severe timing issue, I dunno. I do still have the OEM pan but sure as hell don't wanna rebuild this thing a third time.

As for the bearing issues discussed in DDave's thread below, I had no such problem. Intake was also fine and vac/pres test showed everything tight as a drum. No crank play. 'Course that is a five year old thread and I'd expect those kits to be long gone from most inventories by now anyway.
 
AgTech4020 said:
Interesting. I have the exact same project in my near future as I bought a MS210 that has been straight gassed. I have a Farmer Tech MS250 piston and cylinder I had planned on putting in it.

As a general rule I am not a fan of the aftermarket piston and cylinder’s for the clamshell saws. In my experience the squish has been so wide that the saws never perform as they should. I picked up this straight gassed MS210C for $25 with bar and chain. I figured if I can make a runner out of it then it can sit next to my boiler and be used for trimming over long logs.
Click to expand...

Ever get to that project? And is the 210 an EasyStart? Looks like I may be in need of a flywheel and/or coil as I'm on the second crank and still have a timing issue..., unless both of the FarmerTec cranks have the keyway out of time. Granted, the 210 and 250 have different strokes but the flywheel and coils are the same so both cranks should have the same timing.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Didn't notice the oiler rod issue but the engine could still be sitting just enough higher in the housing to affect the relationship between the flywheel and the coil. Whether it would be enough to cause my severe timing issue, I dunno. I do still have the OEM pan but sure as hell don't wanna rebuild this thing a third time.
Click to expand...

Notice in the pics - the diameter of bolt head seat is smaller AND the depth appears more shallow, too. OEM pan is wallowed out much more. But is it enough to affect timing? I dunno, either. Look over your oiler rod travel closely - is it skewed a little to the high side?
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Ever get to that project? And is the 210 an EasyStart? Looks like I may be in need of a flywheel and/or coil as I'm on the second crank and still have a timing issue..., unless both of the FarmerTec cranks have the keyway out of time. Granted, the 210 and 250 have different strokes but the flywheel and coils are the same so both cranks should have the same timing.
Click to expand...

Yes I did get it done. It went together with no issues at all. I was very disappointed at first as saw was totally gutless. I ended up advancing the timing quite a bit but the saw did wake up. I’d say it’s stronger than a stock 210 but not quite a 250. Has about 135 pounds of compression after two tanks of fuel which isn’t bad for a aftermarket clamshell.


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Thanks for the reply. And congrats for getting it to run. LOL

So is it an EasyStart with the original coil and flywheel and a FarmerTec shortblock? Would need to have a 230 or 250 crank for the right stroke if you just had the 250 piston and cylinder. I have 155# of compression with the one I just did. Combustion chamber was actually pretty nice. Didn't even worry about the squish since there's not much you can do about it anyway. I'm really stumped on this one.
 
Mine is a early MS210C with the tool less chain adjuster and the standard recoil start. I had a 250 kit saw that I have been robbing parts out to fix others all winter. I effectively used the entire 250 short block with the OEM 210 flywheel and coil. It might wake up a bit more. Right now it runs good and idles well but stalls when throttling up if left idling any length of time. I did end up putting the farmertec 250 carb on it as I felt it was running too lean using the 210 carb. Once I work out the idle issue it will be heading to auction.


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Gotcha. Yeah, I'm fighting something weird with this one. Thought it might be a defective FT crank but have the same exact problem with a second FT crank which sorta rules that out unless both have the keyway cut in the wrong place which is highly unlikely and would certainly be common knowledge by now if a bad batch got out somehow. Thing is, this saw was running normally with no issues until being straight gassed. Can't see that messing up a coil or flywheel unless the plug lead somehow became intermittent at the coil from simply removing the coil and replacing it. (It's molded into the epoxy, not screwed onto a pin like usual.) Can't see the flywheel losing magnetism by simply being removed and replaced either. Thought I had the flywheel/coil/crank compatibility scenarios covered but will go over all that again to see if I missed something obvious.
 

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