Gas Can Fuel Gysers

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Fixed. If I evaporate a few vapors, I hope they'll all float into the nearest EPA office - they deserve our anguish.
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ez-flow and be done

you get the spout the vent all you do is drill the hole and press in the vent.

https://ezpourspout.com/product/replacement-water-spout-vent-kit/

the white ones are approved for water cans are food safe and can ship to all states.

what you do with it when it gets there is up to you

white works just fine with gas.

I buy the 5 and 6 gallong cans when they go on sale for 10 dollars the first thing I do is toss the spout and drill a hole add a ez-pour and done a good working gas can

I also keep bar oil in a 2.5 gallon can with a ez-pour spout just knock the screen out works great
 
There are at least two problems with just putting a hole in the can that I can think of that aren’t EPA/OHSA/DOT ridiculousness.

First, when the can blows up like a balloon that’s the most volatile stuff evaporating. The loss of those will surely decrease the octane rating of the fuel over a fairly short time.

Second, the ethanol in gasoline easily absorbs moisture from the air. I know it’s a small hole but the can breathes with temperature changes. It won’t take long to get moisture in the fuel, especially in a humid environment.
 
Have you seen the “fix” for these stupid cans? You drill a hole near the back of the handle and fish a tire valve stem with the gut removed into the hole. Then you use the screw on cap as your vent. Cheap, easy, and can be found all over.

.

NOoooooooooo

It will work good until it dosen't. Rubber valve stem will swell up pop out or crack....

Get one of these packs of vents...

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NOoooooooooo

It will work good until it dosen't. Rubber valve stem will swell up pop out or crack....

Get one of these packs of vents...

I was worried about exactly the same thing but I tried it anyway. I have had the same valve stem and cap in a can for over two years with no problem so far.

Those vents are pretty slick though. At the time I did the valve stem mod I couldn’t find anything like it and I have easy access to valve stems.
 
I also have been useing valve stems in my cans for some time also. If your, or I was worried about the rubber ones I would go and buy the metal ones remove the rubber washer and make a gasket out of some leather.

I recently had to remove the gas tank from My 5000 Ford to seal a seam leak. some thing was raddleing around in the tank. Turned out it was two of thos yellow flip caps that closte the vent.

shopping

You can buy a pack of 4 for $2.85 on flea bag
Since you can't just pull them thru and be done they require some labor to tighten them in place.

:D Al
 
the EZ-flow spouts and vent will allow the can to bloat and collapse if you screw the cap on the end of the spout down snug it has a gasket to keep from spilling if it turn over in the truck

just drilling a hole does have the negative effect of leaving fuel open to the air which is not ideal .

if raining could also let water in.

just drilling a hole also means spillage if your can turns over.

but a decent compromise to the issue is the ability to turn a cap be it on the vent or the spout and release excess pressure while in storage. while keeping rain out

only mixing what you can use in a month or using it by pouring it in the truck at the end of the month helps mitigate the spoilage issue

the vent makes pouring so much nicer , I have several cans I transport off road Diesel in and what a difference when filling a tank I know will take everything in the can compared to non vented cans , growing old waiting on 6 gallons to empty.

was at a friends farm a while back we were growing old waiting on his EPA can of 5 gallons to fill the UTV. you should have seen his face when I stuck my knife tip in the can. but I had a spare ez-pour kit in the truck in the truck just drilled the hole where I had worked the knife tip in and added a vent so much better. his hired hand had been wanting to stick a hole in that can for so long but was afraid of getting in trouble not knowing about or having a valve to put in.
 
I was worried about exactly the same thing but I tried it anyway. I have had the same valve stem and cap in a can for over two years with no problem so far.

Rubber should hold up to gasoline fine. We have rubber fuel lines in our cars. I am not sure what the cap is mad of however. If it is PVC it won't hold up, but those can be easily replaced. It is the ethanol in gas that dries out rubber and causes cracks. That is one reason I only buy ethanol free gas for my equipment.

Do NOT just drill a hole with no cap! For one those vapors are easy to ignite. But as mentioned above your fuel will draw moisture. Water in gas is never a good thing.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
There are at least two problems with just putting a hole in the can that I can think of that aren’t EPA/OHSA/DOT ridiculousness.

First, when the can blows up like a balloon that’s the most volatile stuff evaporating. The loss of those will surely decrease the octane rating of the fuel over a fairly short time.

Second, the ethanol in gasoline easily absorbs moisture from the air. I know it’s a small hole but the can breathes with temperature changes. It won’t take long to get moisture in the fuel, especially in a humid environment.

I do agree that just drilling a hole without a cap is not a good idea at all, however, using E-Free 93 octane fuel for saws(which...everyone should be IMO) pretty much eliminates both of these issues. 93 octane fuel generally will not degrade noticeably in 6-9 months being open to the air. 87 will though...but who uses 87 in their saws?
 
Not all rubber is the same, nitrile, vitron,,,

Valve stems are not made under the assumption of fuel contact, fuel line as designed are. I've got a couple of big cans and a small 1gal that I vented with valve stems from auto zone. The little one lasted less than a year, swole up and ripped off. Suspect that it sloshed around more. The big cans mostly just sit in the garage but when I changed out the whole lot they had begun to swell up.
 
The no-spill cans are great, but I usually just push the button to release the air. I didn't think about installing the vent plug on one of them, but it does bug me when I use my fuel out in the sun and then store it in a dark and cool garage - the can shrinks and implodes on itself. I suspect this will weaken the integrity of the can and it will wear out quicker.

(Yes, I know I'm not supposed to store fuel in a garage - I only do that with my mixed which is in the no-spill cans. The rest stays outside on a shelf).
I usually set cans in the shade behind a tree. Never fails you come back and it's now in the sun, blown up like a basket ball, and it never goes back square. I don't store gas in the garage either, that's why both of our brand new cars sit out side and 40 chainsaws line the walls and floor.
 
That was a joke, my wife's car never sleeps outside in the elements. I also have a work bench that has a 2X4 edge built around the base. It holds a 5 gallon jug of mix tightly, then a five gallon jug of regular for the JD's and walk behind, then 2 small cans sideways, then a milk crate with bar oil and some other small cans of lubricants. I always figured that you did store gas in the garage, but not in the basement. Now, if they keep changing the dimensions of the jugs I'll have to build a whole new bench, because everything fits nice and snug, and can't turn over.
 
A few years back a member put out the word he was looking for one of the old rectangular gas cans because his dad had made a wooden crate to carry his saw gear in, and it had a slot for that type can. Just so happened my Dad's neighbor was moving and he gave me everything in his tractor shed, Ford 641 tractor, welder, jack stands, and a brand new, never used rectangular can. So, I sent it off to him. I got to thinking, I always liked those cans. Paint thinner comes in the same size cans. I was thinking about cleaning out a couple, painting them Homelite red, and then putting Homelite decals on them to match my favorite saws, Super 1050, C72, etc. Figured I would pick up a few no good old ones just to salvage the metal flex spouts. I'd put the yellow plastic vents in them. Anyone see a reason that wouldn't work?
 
A few years back a member put out the word he was looking for one of the old rectangular gas cans because his dad had made a wooden crate to carry his saw gear in, and it had a slot for that type can. Just so happened my Dad's neighbor was moving and he gave me everything in his tractor shed, Ford 641 tractor, welder, jack stands, and a brand new, never used rectangular can. So, I sent it off to him. I got to thinking, I always liked those cans. Paint thinner comes in the same size cans. I was thinking about cleaning out a couple, painting them Homelite red, and then putting Homelite decals on them to match my favorite saws, Super 1050, C72, etc. Figured I would pick up a few no good old ones just to salvage the metal flex spouts. I'd put the yellow plastic vents in them. Anyone see a reason that wouldn't work?

Oh man, I like that idea! Mine will be Stihl colors of course. First one to put a picture up of it wins the rights. GREAT idea.
 
white gas also comes in the metal cans but the cans seem very thin these days.

you can buy new cans ready to paint also
https://www.berlinpackaging.com/190...FpX-M3w1sD5kUC_x2mTl-CjeQEaOWEGcaAijkEALw_wcB

all gas stations around here are posted red can only. different stations are more or less observant of that law.

so maybe red with Stihl decal

ez-flow also makes metal can adapters . a box with 2 metal cans and adapters could be very nice to carry saw gear
https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Gas-Can-Adapter-EZ-POUR/dp/B00P9RAOIW
 
I'm all for clean air and water but like most bureaucracy's there is a total disconnect with the EPA. Something as simple as cutting a load of firewood you have to deal with gas cans puking liquid fuel all over you and the ground because they aren't allowed to be vented, new saws so stingy with there oilers you run the risk of burning up chains, trucks going into regen and nearly starting fires as your mudflap is smoking because of how hot the exhaust is. Your DEF level dropping below sensor while being on an incline and getting threatened with a 5 mph max limp mode. I m just not sure how some of these things are environmentally friendly literally cant see the forest for the trees scenario.
 
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