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TexasRedNeck

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 2, 2016
Messages
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Location
Piney Woods of East Texas
You guys probably get tired of these kind of questions but I assure you I've read and contemplated before posting.

I've been a novice user most of my life before buying some forested acreage in East Texas for a weekend place and retirement home. The Poulan "pro" 20 inch saw I had for 15 years was just not up to the task of more regular use, although I have gotten really good and piecing that thing together and keeping it running.

So with the male ego fully intact, I went to the local Husky dealer and promptly bought a 372XP about 2 years ago. It is a pretty beefy and impressive machine, especially with a 28 inch bar to go with the standard 20.

Its great when I want to really get after a large oak or pine, but for what I do most, limbing and felling small (6-12 inch) trees and in tree use, its just too much saw. So I find myself going back to my small crappy saw for convenience

I'm very tempted to get a Stihl MS193 or MS201 with a 12 inch bar for day to day all around use. I'm just worried about buying too little saw after too much. And not sure if the lack of a traditional handle set up would be a hindrance when on the ground instead of in the tree.

So that brings me to the 261CM 10.8 lbs and 4hp

Or the 201 CEM 8.6lbs and 2.4 hp, although I can't figure why the increase in price over the other saws unless the electronic engine management is that expensive.

Or the Husky 450 rancher II at 11.2 lbs and 3.2hp or the 545 at 10.8 and 3.35hp

Im trying to stay closer to 10 than 12 pounds and prefer a pro level saw for longevity or a good compromise might be the farm and ranch level. I'm not worried so much about saving or spending an extra $100 but I want a great saw to do what I need.

signed, potentially analysis paralysis.....

TIA for your advice
 
I'd go with the 261. If you get a top handle you'll be limited on bar length and you'll be bending over for every cut. We have several 261 and the are a perfect mid size saw for us. 20" bar and they're just fine. My main saw sizes go from 200T to 261 to 661. I rarely ever use anything in between. That's in the bucket or climbing. On the ground it's 261 or 661.
 
I am also in East Texas (Deep East Texas to be exact). Depending upon the type trees you have where you are and how many you need to actually 'fell' a smaller top handle saw with a 14" bar can be quite useful. While they are typically used as 'limbing' saws I find myself reaching for my top handle saws most of the time.

I have saws from 25cc to 103cc and have everything from pine to oak to hickory, etc.. on my property. You already have a saw (the Husky) capable of felling and bucking up some fairly large timber. My suggestion would be your next purchase be a reasonably powerful top handle saw.

If most of your work centers around clearing unwanted trees (especially those 10" and under) I have found mine to be plenty good for that and not tiring to use (let the saw do the work and keep your chain sharp). Later if you see a need for it...a medium size saw 50 cc will prove its worth for felling trees up to 18". Your larger saw is more likely to be used for bucking up 'blow downs' (a common occurrence in East Texas).

If you don't already know...the typical wooded property in East Texas requires CONSTANT maintenance to keep it from overgrowing. For the most part this involves smaller saplings and young trees. But in any case...it would be difficult (at best) to keep things orderly using a single saw....so you definitely need a second saw, just consider carefully how it will be used most of the time.
 
I really don't like running a top handle saw...you might want to try one first before going to a top handle as your "small" saw. I think from Stihl a 261 or maybe even more so a 241 would fit the bill rather nicely, if you look Husky a 550XP would probably be the avenue I'd go.
 
261 or 241 would be ideal IMO. I have the 261 and it's a fantastic saw.

I would not own or even think about owning a top handle saw if I didn't climb. I hate running top handle saws on the ground. Ergos suck and they're really not that much lighter. They ARE much more awkward on the ground.

A 261 with a 20" bar would handle 90% of most people's chainsaw uses. Especially if you're not going to be in big tree's or climbing.


My suggestion, sell the Poulan. Keep the 372 for the odd big stuff you get into, and buy a 261.
 
Think seriously about the MS 241 CM. It sounds as if you plan to keep the 372XP for the occassional big job, but want something smaller for ordinary use. I got a 241 last year and only wish I had bought it years ago. The 241 will save you 0.9 lb compared to the 261, and as long as you keep your chain sharp should have more than enough power. Maybe, if you are not keeping the 372XP, go with a larger saw, but I think you'd be happier with the 2 saw combination.
 
Thank you all for taking the time to provide some input. I like my Husky but I kinda wanted to try a Stihl since I haven't had one although I've had three of their string trimmers. Seems the 241 is discontinued or I can't find it on their website. Some may have new old stock. Same with the Husky350.

I think I'll get the all round saw next and then later get a top handle small saw for in the tree. I try not to climb if I don't have to. just because I have the ropes and harnesses don't make me a professional.

I like the specs on the 550XP but want to try a stihl this time around. If I can find the 241 I may try it and if not I'll get the 261. Any feedback on the M tronic system? Seems to add quite a bit to the price. Any special maintenance or things to worry about with the M tronic?

FlintKnapper, I'm in the Ratcliff area and was outside with the tornado's came through a couple weeks ago. You miss all that? Its a sound I will never forget. We dodged the bullet with just some blow downs and big limbs that hit the wife's van. Others didnt fare so well.

I'll keep the Poulan to loan out......funny thing is that I probably have as much money in that raggedy saw from all the repairs as a nice new saw will run.

So...thanks again. Off to find a 241 or 261
 
The OP has a 372xp for larger wood, he stated his intended purpose for the saw is 6"-12" wood. So forget the MS261, I have 2 of them they are a great saw but for your requirements its NOT the right saw. You need something in the 25cc-40cc range. Looking at the saws your contemplating WEIGHT is a priority. I also own the rear handle Stihl 201. Its SUPER light & nimble and performs well. Its well suited for any wood up to 12"/14", with a 14" reduced weight bar, they are magic. But they have their pitfalls too, they have a small fluid tanks and light duty AV as there essentially a climbing saw with a rear handle but they balance beautifully & are a featherweight saw. Other options similar to this (is top handles in rear handle configuration) are the echo 355 rear handle or the new much loved 25cc class 2501 rear handle. Also the homeowner class Stihl 193 rear handle (I think they make them). I own a MS150 rearear handle Stihl too, although I would NOT recommend it, its a great saw in top handle form but not so good as a rear handle unlike the 201. If you get a Stihl I recommend standard carb version over the Mtronics, they are more reliable this way as the MT don't like being stop started a lot with temp variations. Other dedicated rear handle saws would be the recent Dolmar 3601 (35cc) or pro class Dolmar 421 (43cc). If you can buy a 241-cm pro class Stihl, that is probably your best option of the 40cc class Pro-saws. Its been king of the pack for good reason with proven performance/reliability. The dedicated reach handle saws are more rugged but they way more too and carry more fuel. So that's something you need to weigh up. Anyway there's some fruit for thought, don't get talked into a 50cc saw, its NOT what will serve you best. They are better for 12"-18" wood. When spending hours cutting small stuff the fuel efficiency of small saws sub 45cc is a massive asset, you get more work done per tank. They weight difference is hugely appreciated and will keep you working longer with less fatigue. You get more work done easier, with a correctly matched saw for the job at hand. Sadly Husqvarna have no good choices in this range if they did, I'd have mentioned them, the 545 is close but is more a 50cc saw than 25-40cc. DOLMAR/ECHO/STIHL. A pole saw or kombi unit with saw attachment would be worth considering as a 3rd saw with the type of work you intend for this saw.
 
For 6" to 12" trees an Echo CS 370 would be perfect. I've had one for years with a 16" bar on it. I pulled out the cat, opened the muffler a bit and tweaked the carb adjustments. Its small and light, and with some decent chain it cuts well beyond what you might expect from a 37cc saw.
 
If you get a Stihl I recommend standard carb version over the Mtronics, they are more reliable this way as the MT don't like being stop started a lot with temp variations.

Never had a problem with my Mtronic saws and stop/start situations.

Never had a problem with my Mtronic saws at all really. Not saying they're perfect or without their own issues...but saying they have issues with start stop...I haven't seen that.
 
I think you’ll be happy with any pro level saw in the 50cc range. If your budget allows I wouldn’t even consider a home or farm saw although much wood has been cut with them. Dolmar/Makita and Echo/Redmax have some nice saws in that range as well. I don’t have any experience with the Stihl 261 but I’ve heard it is a great saw. A 50/70cc combo is hard to beat, unless you buy more saws. I’m more of a 40/60/90 kind of guy myself. Truthfully it’s more like I’m a 30/40/40/40/45/55/60/60/70/80/95 kind of guy but that will surely come later.

I’m a big guy and fairly strong but I find that I reach for the 40cc saw a lot. It’s easy to run, easy to start, and easy on fuel. I probably cut 75% with my little 40cc redmax with a 14” bar or one of its clone cousins, 24% with either my old 034 or Poulan 330 and 1% with the husky 394.

Have I made your paralysis worse? My point is you can’t go wrong with almost any modern pro saw and don’t worry too much about HP. Any well tuned saw with a sharp chain will cut wood. You’ve already discovered there is a trade off for weight vs HP and weight is winning.
 
You guys probably get tired of these kind of questions but I assure you I've read and contemplated before posting.

I've been a novice user most of my life before buying some forested acreage in East Texas for a weekend place and retirement home. The Poulan "pro" 20 inch saw I had for 15 years was just not up to the task of more regular use, although I have gotten really good and piecing that thing together and keeping it running.

So with the male ego fully intact, I went to the local Husky dealer and promptly bought a 372XP about 2 years ago. It is a pretty beefy and impressive machine, especially with a 28 inch bar to go with the standard 20.

Its great when I want to really get after a large oak or pine, but for what I do most, limbing and felling small (6-12 inch) trees and in tree use, its just too much saw. So I find myself going back to my small crappy saw for convenience

I'm very tempted to get a Stihl MS193 or MS201 with a 12 inch bar for day to day all around use. I'm just worried about buying too little saw after too much. And not sure if the lack of a traditional handle set up would be a hindrance when on the ground instead of in the tree.

So that brings me to the 261CM 10.8 lbs and 4hp

Or the 201 CEM 8.6lbs and 2.4 hp, although I can't figure why the increase in price over the other saws unless the electronic engine management is that expensive.

Or the Husky 450 rancher II at 11.2 lbs and 3.2hp or the 545 at 10.8 and 3.35hp

Im trying to stay closer to 10 than 12 pounds and prefer a pro level saw for longevity or a good compromise might be the farm and ranch level. I'm not worried so much about saving or spending an extra $100 but I want a great saw to do what I need.

signed, potentially analysis paralysis.....

TIA for your advice
MS 241C
 
Thanks again guys. I think I may have found some dealer stock on the 241, but it will require an hour drive. I'm a buy once cry once kind of guy so I would like to stay with a pro level saw. I really like the specs on the 201, but why the $200 bigger price tag than the 241?
 
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