Spikeless work positioning for trimming Phoenix canariensis

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ptspringer

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Hi, I'm looking for advice on trimming my Canary Island Date Palm without using spurs for work positioning. I'm using Stationary Rope Technique to ascend the tree using a rope that passes through the top and anchored on the base of the tree. The tree trimming requires getting around the tree to pull off the old boots for about 2-3 feet, clean up the trunk where the old boots were, remove 2-3 feet of dead fronds and fronds below horizontal in the canopy, and then tidy up the new "pineapple" base below the green fronds. I would like a method where I could position my feet while using a flipline/lanyard to work the trunk where the old boots are, and than raise that to work the fronds. I've tried web slings supported from another rope around the trunk, but it is difficult to reposition when weighted. Ideally, I'd like a rope supported mini-platform (of sorts) that encircles the trunk, and a way to raise it.
 
Use two adjustable lanyards, work your way around the ball, done it many times,
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
Do you mean attaching a second lanyard around the fronds above and repositioning as you move around the trunk, and not worry about positioning your feet? Or having an adjustable positioning web strap for each foot?
 
yes,, I am old school and have done many so I never had a web strap for my feet. I always had a tie in a few fronds above me and advance around the ball. Wish I could explain it better, but it sounds like you get it, good luck, I think you will find it suprisingly easy.
Jeff
 
I've done them just as Jeff described. There's a learning curve. Its miserable, those fronds will stab you worse than a knife if not careful. Sometimes SRT up them you really need to make sure your ropes in a good spot. Sometimes on big ones it's hard to get to trunk.
Some good advice, hire someone who has a bucket truck.
 
+1 for bucket truck if accessible.

I also use tall ladders on these whilst wearing saddle and polebelt for safety if high and possible slip (greater than 5m to fronds). I just keep moving ladder around trunk:eek:nce to prune, and once again to trim smooth. Can be faster than climbing without spikes.

Often just use ladder if less but I rope tie ladder to trunk to resist slip if necessary, especially if old cut fronds left on trunk are rotten.

Always cut fronds now in two places, first cut outside spearpoint/thorns part of fronds so large part of frond falls to ground without being a fast moving weapon. Second cut against trunk so can easily manage spearpoint/thorny part of frond. Really helps to reduce injuries not just in pruning but in handling fronds to disposal.
 
I've trimmed it the last 30 years so I know about the thorny spears on frond issues. It's kind of in an awkward spot to get a bucket truck in, and ladder placement has some challenges also. I did a rough trim using each end of the rope with anchors tied at the base. Now to tidy up the trunk and ball. It's only 16 feet to the fronds, but next year 18 feet, and so on... So I think I'll start that learning curve on the two positioning lanyards. From what I figure, you have to tie into fronds above for two anchoring points placed an arm's length apart, and cinch/loosen either side to move sideways. Since you're hanging from these, I'm assuming a ventral attachment for both b/c you'll have to release one to advance it along? I'm thinking 4 m lengths on each side to allow lowering enough to trim last-years boots? Please correct any mis-assuming and mis-thinking you find.
IMG_3210.JPG
 
I've trimmed it the last 30 years so I know about the thorny spears on frond issues. It's kind of in an awkward spot to get a bucket truck in, and ladder placement has some challenges also. I did a rough trim using each end of the rope with anchors tied at the base. Now to tidy up the trunk and ball. It's only 16 feet to the fronds, but next year 18 feet, and so on... So I think I'll start that learning curve on the two positioning lanyards. From what I figure, you have to tie into fronds above for two anchoring points placed an arm's length apart, and cinch/loosen either side to move sideways. Since you're hanging from these, I'm assuming a ventral attachment for both b/c you'll have to release one to advance it along? I'm thinking 4 m lengths on each side to allow lowering enough to trim last-years boots? Please correct any mis-assuming and mis-thinking you find.
View attachment 732670

I am sure there are multiple ways, depending on climbing equipment you use.

If no choice but to use just lanyards or ropes I use two methods:

If accessible to put lanyards into mass of fronds I use two lanyards, and a separate 2m rope (preferably spliced) that I girth onto a frond and support my weight with a foot ascender whilst transitioning lanyards or lifting myself up to cut. Just more energy efficient for me.

If fronds too dense, I throw multiple base-tied lines over crown of palm and climb up srt, with lanyard around trunk to keep close to trunk, and just transition to different lines as I work around trunk. Of course have to be careful of ropes...
 
I'm assuming that tying into fronds even with 2 lanyards should never be used for life-support anchors, so I plan to remain tied into my SRT rope, but have it slack enough to allow me to reach the other side of the palm. On the rope with a girth hitch on a single frond (used for weight-support with foot ascender), I plan to make a special spliced eye with a large enough loop (maybe 18") so that I can girth hitch over the large circumference at the frond base using the loop portion only, and the splice remaining below the girth hitch.

Does this sound correct?
 
use your two lanyards to move around the ball, move your life support line with you, unless you plan on wrapping it around the ball. You can easily tie in your line above you thru a couple fronds as you go. Make it easier when your ready to come down. Once I get in position, I would just keep my life line on me and move around the ball using two lanyards and when done tie in and come down,
Jeff
 
That’s the plan, except on those few Phoenix palms that have their fronds so dense you simply cannot get a lanyard or rope on fronds anywhere close to the trunk, you will need a lanyard around the trunk as well to pull you close to cut the fronds square with the trunk, if that’s the plan.
 
If I get you both right, I could use a girth hitch on fronds above using a rope loop and a carabiner to advance my SRT line above me as I went around the ball. This would eliminate the need for the 2 m spliced eye & foot ascender, since I'd be using my SRT line and climbing system. If the fronds failed for some reason then I would end up swinging back to where I started. After circling the whole tree, I could rely on my lanyards alone for life-support as I reposition the tie-in location on my SRT to bypass the part that now circles the tree.

How many fronds minimum would you trust your line to?

Also, do you attach the two lanyards to the same set of rings on the harness (my treemotion harness has two pairs + the center bridge where I'm tied in)
 
Repositioning SRT line every cutting point will be slow, and waste energy.

I always go around twice - once to prune, once to saw flush to trunk/ball as I typically get a better finish that way. So I generally keep my SRT connected to bridge and loosen as I go. Once full circle I just reconnect back to original point on SRT line and repeat.

If you have a groundy able to reset it would be handy to swap sides on SRT line to repeat process to reduce swing if something goes wrong and swing would land you in trouble, or you can redirect SRT line to limit swing if swing would land you in trouble. Whatever the situation requires.
 
Thank you both very much! This gives me a good idea how to do this properly - now I'm off to make my spliced eye for tying into fronds. I like the idea of staying tied into the SRT for each complete rotation around the tree. I'm trying to approach this with an abundance of caution and forethought.
 
Here is what I propose for girthing onto 2 fronds for the 2+ m length to raise myself with a foot ascender. Rope is 11.7 mm, and drawing represents cross section of an upper and lower frond (both green & healthy). I plan to attach near or to the inside of dreaded frond spikes.

Does this look OK?

Because fronds taper away from tree, I'm hoping this will give enough bite into the frond to avoid slipping. Or should I : use a single frond (not life support): lose the carabiner?
 

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Here is what I propose for girthing onto 2 fronds for the 2+ m length to raise myself with a foot ascender. Rope is 11.7 mm, and drawing represents cross section of an upper and lower frond (both green & healthy). I plan to attach near or to the inside of dreaded frond spikes.

Does this look OK?

Because fronds taper away from tree, I'm hoping this will give enough bite into the frond to avoid slipping. Or should I : use a single frond (not life support): lose the carabiner?

I would personally use without carabiner. But try and see.
 
I climbed the palm just now and set up the double lanyard system with additional tie in for foot ascender that Chaplain & Jeff suggested. I was able to move left, right, up and down on the lanyard(s) & split tail system. A single frond seemed well able to support my weight, so it's probably perfectly safe tied into 2 or 3 anchors in the fronds. I plan to leave my SRT tied in as well as I circle the tree. I didn't bring up a saw, but I will tomorrow.
 

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