Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I dig those old saws for some reason. Just hearing one idle, there's not much in those old mufflers. I've had a couple homelites and a pioneer. Used ones come up all the time for cheap but I never see a big displacement saw. If I ever do I'll be all over it!
Ok, ecofan report. First let me explain my stove. It has a false cast iron top with an airspace beneath and side covers. The way the squirrel cage blower fan works is to move air through that space around the sides, up over top and out the front. It really hoofs out the heat with little noise. I have run it without the fan and also during power outages. It will convect the heat but doesn't seem to put out anywhere near as much as it does with the blower fan running. Last night I started a fire in the cold stove and placed the ecofan on top right in front of the pipe. After about 15 minutes, the fan started to turn, by half an hour, the stove was hot enough for the fan to spin at a good clip. I resisted the urge to stick my finger in it. Lol. Standing about 8 ft away I could feel the warm air hitting my face. I was surprised at how well it was moving the heat. I think I'm going to use it instead of the factory blower definitely for the shoulder seasons. It is silent and makes its own electricity. I would recommend one especially if your stove doesn't have a blower on it.
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Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
This has also got my interest too, what’s the energy source, what’s the brand / link.
And finally what it’s actually made in Canada, don’t you guys just dig holes like us, sell minerals and import it all back as cars and phones like us.
 
This has also got my interest too, what’s the energy source, what’s the brand / link.
And finally what it’s actually made in Canada, don’t you guys just dig holes like us, sell minerals and import it all back as cars and phones like us.
Ok. They are assembled here. Lol. Caframo ecofan. They have a website. The heat generates the electricity.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
 
Update on the C72 above. I needed my comp gauge and it was still screwed into the C72. I took the gauge off, and while I was there, I stuck a plug on the wire and cranked it over. Good spark. Put a shot of mix down the plug hole and started cranking. First 4-5 pulls mix ran out the exhaust, next couple pulls produced puffs of smoke. On about the 10th pull it fired up and sounds great! Happy Camper here. Now I'm digging through my bars, I'm sure I have a couple 24" from the 1050's around here somewhere?
 
Got it for $20 today. From a guy I work with. says it runs, he better not be lying because I work with him[emoji23][emoji23]

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Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Those are a dime a dozen and if you should have issues, they usually only have one of two problems: either they need a carb kit or the duckbill valve went bad and the oil backs up into the crankcase.

If you need more bars or want a longer bar I would be happy to send you one for the cost of shipping.

The one annoying thing about the little Homies is that they do not use the same DL chain as the other common saws so you need specific chains to run them.
 
Those are a dime a dozen and if you should have issues, they usually only have one of two problems: either they need a carb kit or the duckbill valve went bad and the oil backs up into the crankcase.

If you need more bars or want a longer bar I would be happy to send you one for the cost of shipping.

The one annoying thing about the little Homies is that they do not use the same DL chain as the other common saws so you need specific chains to run them.
Pm inbound


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
Got it for $20 today. From a guy I work with. says it runs, he better not be lying because I work with him[emoji23][emoji23]

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Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I have two of them, one a non-runner and leaks oil - buddy wants to fool with it. The other is on a "Rule" chainsaw winch. I only ran it onece. Works but takes forever to reel in a log.
 
The air filter and carb setup on old saw are strange sometimes.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
It reminds me of an 026 or 036 setup.

Looks like an old Chevy Corvair engine!
Might make as much power to.
 
Old saws get no respect. My cousin was at an auction, he knows the auctioneer. They had a Homelite C5 and 330. They couldn't get a bid. The auctioneer said "SOLD, to Tommy" for $1.He gave them to me, and I gave the C5 to a friend. He tinkered with it for a few minutes and had it running. He bought a 30" bar for it and uses it for milling. I figured I messed up giving that one away so I bought a C51 and a C72 for $5 each at another auction. The C72 was locked up, so I soaked it in 50/50 acetone and ATF for a couple weeks and it broke loose. Put the comp gauge on it and it's blowing 135 PSI. I put this 45" bar on it for a photo op, because all of my Super 1050's were on the top shelf. I just bought another 1050 for $40, so the big bar will go on it.
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Thanks for that rarefish, I've always wondered how well they would actually move the air around (never seen one in action or know of anyone here using one) they are quite expensive here compared to a cheap pedistal fan (costs around $12 for those compared to a few $100 for some of the eco fans I've seen) hence my reluctance to even bother buying and trying a eco fan, plus I figure I can use the pedistal fan in summer too.

What sort of heater are you running? I've got the Lopi 380 I think it's called (similar to the Endevour from my understanding just not as modern with it's eco friendliness with all it's tubes etc for burning off unburnt smoke etc but it's not the smoking dragon as some call them, I guess it depends on the types of wood one burns as to whether a fire is a smoking dragon or not hey.

Those saws are rippers and a bargain too.:rock:

Cheers mate
 
Thanks for that rarefish, I've always wondered how well they would actually move the air around (never seen one in action or know of anyone here using one) they are quite expensive here compared to a cheap pedistal fan (costs around $12 for those compared to a few $100 for some of the eco fans I've seen) hence my reluctance to even bother buying and trying a eco fan, plus I figure I can use the pedistal fan in summer too.

What sort of heater are you running? I've got the Lopi 380 I think it's called (similar to the Endevour from my understanding just not as modern with it's eco friendliness with all it's tubes etc for burning off unburnt smoke etc but it's not the smoking dragon as some call them, I guess it depends on the types of wood one burns as to whether a fire is a smoking dragon or not hey.

Those saws are rippers and a bargain too.:rock:

Cheers mate
I have a Jotul insert. It's a nice stove, but I liked my old Russo better. It's comparing apples to oranges though. My old stove was an insert also, but about 12"s stuck out on the hearth, so you had all that hot steel in the room. The Jotul sits flush to the opening, so all of the steel is in the fireplace. The old Russo was a cat stove with a much bigger firebox. I could pack it full and get a 12 hour burn. The new Jotul, I can't get near as much wood in it, and I'm lucky to get a 5 hour burn. But, the Jotul is much prettier, so the wife likes it.
 
There were no ‘cheapy’ saws back then.
These saws were about as close to "cheapy" as things got back then. Still mostly metal, but things were changing. I have my wife's grandfather's Mighty Mite Deluxe and it was my first 'rebuild' of a saw. I also have a parts saw I picked up for $15 shipped, and they help illustrate the "value engineering" that happened over time. One recoil is metal, the other plastic. One has a plain metal handle, one's padded with rubber, etc. The next generation of "Mighty Mite" saws (100,200,300) were much worse, mostly plastic.
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I changed it over to 3/8lp with a pretty widely available sprocket. There are IPLs available online thankfully which help.
I also found that an oregon A318 bar still needed a bit of adjustment but worked well on both this saw and my other cheap '70s saw, a Skil 1612, which had a very similar story (made for many brands including Jonsereds, Husqvarna, Frontier, Skil, etc. and was gradually changed through production).
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My carb has a fixed high jet, unfortunately, but a rebuild kit was all it needed to run. It also has this "start" lever...
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Which, shockingly on a 34cc 1970s cheapy saw, is a decomp!
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I had to make a few gaskets for my saw, fuel line, carb kit, that's about it. In use the Remington does not run nearly as well as the Skil. I suspect it's the decomp leaking (no idea how to fix that) and/or crank seals.

A few quirks of the design (and other similar designs of the time) are that the duckbill valve that lets crankcase pressure into the oil tank (to be "automatic") goes bad. Some older saws like the Skil use a common size duckbill from a poulan fuel cap, but the Remington does not have a replacement I'm aware of, so I plugged it and use the manual oiler (which also activates when you pull the throttle trigger on this one). Also the fuel will boil in the tank when it's worked hard or it's very hot out...I only use it for fun so no biggie.

So on the "cheapy" front, here's an idea of what they actually cost in September 1976, thanks to my grandfather's hoarding tendancies ($125 for my model):
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This 1976 model has the later style handlebar and caps so mine must be a bit earlier. Your "Monkey Ward" looks just like mine in handlebar and caps.
 

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